Turns out my timing here in Israel is during lots of holidays and days things shut down. In the week I have been here, there has been Easter, Passover, Shabbat, and now I am told by my hosts that the Holocaust Remembrance Day (Yom Hasho'ah) is coming up. While this could be seen as a disruption, I have quite enjoyed seeing many of the rituals. And with so many areas and different religions within a close proximity, there is always somewhere that does not observe the same holiday and is open if need be. 
But it meant today would be my last day in Jerusalem, as Yom Hasho'ah is the day after and it will be difficult to travel. I decided it would be fitting to spend my last day visiting Yad Vashem, the official memorial museum for Holocaust victims. It is outside the city center, but easy to get to by tram. 
Although the museum was a bit chaotic that day, as there was to be a big ceremony for the next day's holiday, it was an absolutely beautiful, educational, peaceful, and heartbreaking experience. The museum itself has great architectural design. There are gardens and educational centers, reading rooms, and exhibits. It does a great job bringing together the history of that time, but also highlights the heroes and positives in such a dark time. Most memorable was the Hall of Names, a commemoration of all victims in a high-domed room with photos that seem to bring life to each person as a deep reflection pool in the pit of the floor reflects the images. 
The walls are lined with binders full of personal stories, memorabilia and quotes that brings an identity and humanness to each victim. In another room is one of the existing copies of Schindler's actual list. And finally was a underground cavern of darkness where a Children's Memorial single flame reflects off mirrors and looks like never-ending stars. 
I was glad to go early, right when the museum opened to experience it before all the big busloads of tour groups arrived. I went for a walk in the gardens next to the museum, in an attempt to visit Hertzl's Tomb, but it was closed as they were preparing for the holiday events.
Emotionally drained, I prepared for my return back to Tel Aviv. I treated myself to a nice lunch at a restaurant named Zuni, suggested by a friend who used to like there. I had a delicious lunch of Lamb meatballs with beets and pomegranate sauce and a side of roasted cauliflower. I picked up a few thank you presents to leave behind for my hosts as I dropped off their house keys and grabbed my backpack. I booked a nice hotel a block off the beach for my last night in Tel Aviv and headed for the bus terminal.
Returning to Tel Aviv from Jerusalem is night and day. I am greeted with the now familiar bustle of the city. The walk from the south bus station to the hotel is dodgy. The dilapidated nearby apartments are mainly inhabited by African refugees and there are too frequent unwelcoming racist signs and graffiti on the walls. As a walk closer into the city and towards the beach, the party atmosphere is back (although a bit muted due to closures for the upcoming holiday that begins at sundown). The now familiar vans full of Na Nach Hasidic Jewish men that jump out at stoplights and start dancing... I kid you not. Finally I make it to the lovely Blue Glass Hotel and go catch the last of the sunshine at the beach.
Not my video, but gives a general idea of the dancing Na Nach dancing vans:
The next day I got up, packed my luggage and walked over to the Market. Picked up some breakfast and tried to get to the nearest busy street corner to observe the moment of silence for Yom Hasho'ah. I am glad I did. It was really intense. The sirens start blaring and people IMMEDIATELY stop what they are doing. Cars, buses, taxis pull over or just STOP. People stand still, whether in a cross walk in the middle of the street or in conversation. It is eerily quiet and people are all with bowed heads, deep in their own individual thoughts but as a collective group. Time fully stands still. It was incredible to see. I am very glad it was explained to me by my Jerusalem hosts first, or else I would have been very confused (and probably pretty alarmed at the siren).
Didn't get a video as I was deep in my own reflection, but here is someone's from the previous year:
I went to the beach for a dip until my checkout from the hotel at noon. 
My flight wasn't until 11:30pm that night, so I decided I would leave my bags at the hotel and go explore the Tel Aviv Museum of Art (mainly since they had air conditioning and I knew it would be a long day and flight home. Turned out to be a great decision. It was a really great museum. I was saddened to learn I had just missed an exhibit on graffiti, but I wandered down to the traveling exhibit hall and found a favorite artist of mine's work. I first learned about Vik Muniz through his documentary called Wasteland where he creates art with the help of people who work and live at a huge dump in Brazil, and changes lives in the process. I was so excited to get to see some of his work!
On the way home, I finally was craving a cheeseburger so stopped in to get one. I was chatting with some guys in line and they decided that should not be my last meal in Israel. Thy told me of a great little street food place in a nearby neighborhood. I headed over there, saw the line of locals out the door, and was sure it was the right place. Grilled meat, potatoes, hummus, and salad wrapped with spicy sauce in an Israeli pita and it was absolutely delicious. Great last day in Israel and wrap up to my trip. I walked back to the hotel, grabbed my backpack, swung by Miznon to see if if my friend was there to say goodbye (she wasn't so I left her a note), and walked to the train to head to the airport. By chance, I ran into my Jerusalem host near the train station so had last minute goodbyes. I was hassled a bunch at the airport by security (lots of questioning about my stay in Egypt, searching of my bag, taking my belongs apart and dusting everything for bomb residue or gun powder or something). And the flight from Tel Aviv to JFK was one of the worst ever. But back in the US, I was happy and felt blessed for the new experiences and super happy to be home.
The Middle East (much like everywhere) has so many issues, so much history, and so much complexity. Every time I thought I had a small sliver of understanding, I would learn something new and know that I would likely never be able to understand it all. But it is a fascinating, lively place full of kind and hospitable people. I would love to go back some day. Here are all of my Israel trip photos or you can view them as a slideshow
I headed down to see the cemetery where Oskar Schindler was buried and was the only one there. Schindler's headstone was surprisingly plain, but covered in rocks as is tradition to show respect for the person buried there. I sat with my thoughts and added a special rock I had been carrying to take home to the pile. Then I headed down the winding alleyways of the Old City through the Jewish, Armenian, and Muslim Quarters. It was interesting to see the similarities, but also the distinct differences within such a relatively small area. I basically got lost within the walls until I finally popped out by the Damascus Gate.
Once I got my bearings, I headed to Lions Gate to walk around near the base of the Mount of Olives to see Al-Aqsa Mosque, and then into Dung Gate to see the Western Wall and Dome of the Rock. The Dome of the Rock had been shut down due to protests, but I did visit the Wailing Wall. It is split into a men's and women's side. I felt kind of strange, as I knew it was very powerful for everyone around me, but I didn't fully understand the religious significance. 
I did enjoy the prayers written on pieces of paper and shoved into every crack or crevice on the Wall that was within reach. It was kind of nice to think of the Wall holding so many people's hopes, dreams, and wishes. I may have made some of my own wishes, but only in my head.
I woke up early the next morning to make the trek up the Mount of Olives. Everyone told me to take a taxi, but it looked walkable. The walk to the top is up a steep hill cemetery that is supposedly over 3,000 years old and is full of tombstones (some say over 150,000). It actually was a long way to the top, not helped by the fact that I was weaving in and out, looking at all the different graves. Finally at the top, I was approached by several people saying they would "walk me around." I had heard it was kind of a seedy area and there was a strange vibe, so I declined and lost them. I found a bunch of kids with a very kind woman who was teaching them photography. 
She told me to just blend in with the group, and got me into one of the small church grounds that was closed to the public. I walked around with them as the kids watched what I tried to take pictures of and mimicked me. Then we all shared our pictures. Super cute! We all said goodbye after a while as they headed back to school
I wandered into something called the Mosque of the Ascension. There were some guys outside who explained the significance and waived the admission fee and gave me a tour. There is an indented rock in the middle of the floor, which they explain is considered the last footprint of Jesus before he ascended to heaven. I actually had no idea that Jesus was both part of the Muslim and Christian. I headed over and had a coffee at Seven Arches, enjoying the lookout view over Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock. A guide that drove a tour bus offered me a ride back down the hill, but I decided I still had enough energy and could explore more by walking down. 
On the way, I stopped by the Dominus Flevit church that had beautiful and quiet gardens and view of the Dome of the Rock from the altar. A family sang hymns in the church and did not seemed bothered while I sat and enjoyed it. I also checked out the Garden of Gethsemane with worlds oldest olive trees (over 2000 years old). 
At the base of the hill, the Church of All Nations had some of my favorite architecture inside with lots of Corinthian columns and blue ceilings with tree trunks and stars. I wandered back through the Old Quarter and was invited in to the home of an odd Jewish guy. We sat and chatted over coffee and then I went to find some street food and picked up a yummy pizza of sorts that had za'atar spread on flatbread. Exhausted, I headed back to my hosts' apartment, chatted with them for a bit, and crashed out.
Ah, the last leg of my trip. I fell behind in my updates and am just getting caught up. My first day in Israel consisted of hanging out with the family I am staying with as the mom made homemade matzo ball soup to take to her brother's house. Danielle and her boyfriend drop me off in Tel Aviv. It is an amazingly nice city. It is still a holiday (Passover/Easter) so a lot of stuff in the city is closed and it is pretty quiet. But that makes it far easier to navigate and get my bearings. It is a very clean, walkable city with gardens and parks, childrens play areas, dog parks, and public beaches. 
People of the neighborhoods walk through little streets lined with colorful, nice-smelling flowers as they walk their dogs or stop at one of the many outside cafes. I wander to the promenade next to the beach along the Mediterranean sea and walk the length of Tel Aviv into Jaffa, since it is Arabic area (stores are open as it is not their holiday). I enjoy the views and flowers, watching the families BBQ along the beach and kids flying kites on the grassy hills. 
I wander around and find a parade and stop to watch. I then head down to the busy port area and grab some of the delicious hummus I have heard so much about. It is creamy and super good. Head back into town and wander around more, finally stopping to enjoy the sunset over the beach as it casts pretty light on the newer, modern downtown towers.
I walk the beach, checking out a funky beach house. The sand is soft, and it could be paradise except for the occasional military planes buzzing by. I head back to the house as Danielle offers me a ride to the city as she has to work. She feeds me at the restaurant she works at and it is delicious! Not sure of the spelling as things are spelled all different ways here when done phonetically from Hebrew (street signs sometimes have different spellings for the same place so you have to read it aloud in your head), but it is a place called Miznon on King George Street and Ibn Gvirol 21. It is pita sandwiches using all super fresh ingredients (some grow on the roof) such herbs, veggies and meat. There is a snack tray with tahini and fresh tomato sauce made from scratch that tastes like sunshine. She also give me an ice cream treat in a pita with some sweet tree sap/syrup and roasted bananas. Apparently the chef has several restaurants, some really fancy and upscale and they will be opening one in French and maybe New York. All full, I go off to wander the streets and marketplace. Some man sees me from his apartment balcony on the beach and has the phone number of the parking attendant of the lot I am passing. The parking attendant motions me over and hands me the phone, saying "it's for you." Strange, but he really wants to buy me a drink (I choose coffee as I am unsure if he is creepy or not). He turned out okay, but just wants to buy me stuff and I am not interested. So I wander off some more and head to a lively place with beer, the soccer match, and live music upstairs. People seem to stay up til all hours here and people are still walking, jogging, and roller blading at 11pm. I meet Danielle after her shift and she gives me a ride back to the house.
Today, Danielle and her sister have off in the morning. So we all head to Cesaria, some ruins along the beach. Enjoy the views and flowers and then they take me to a local beach spot for shakshouka, the traditional Israeli breakfast of eggs and tomatoes with some hummus and pita. We talk about their military service and religion and just enjoy each others company. I plan to head to Jerusalem in the afternoon and while on the beach, Danielle puts out a Facebook message and gets a place for me to stay with a friend. They help give me directions for the bus and write out everything for me to show people if I get lost. I made it to Jerusalem (with a bit of help from more strangers) and the friend, Alon, left me his key in the mailbox as he is away tonight. It is a quiet neighborhood but centrally located near really nice hotels, an Art House, and a few blocks from Ben Yehuda Street with restaurants and bars. I enter an empty house (there are 2 other roommates, but no one is home), drop my stuff and head for a walk to the Old City. 
Pass the US Consulate (it is rather nice to see our flag after all this traveling) and catch the last of the sunset in the Old City. Lots of tourists and people with America accents that have moved here. Head back to Ben Yehuda Street for dinner and then back to the house where I meet Alon's roommate, who seems nice. He is a physics student at the university here and is from a kibbutz up north. Now, off to bed as I am sure there will be lots of walking through Jerusalem tomorrow!
The second next day I went on two dives. We did Shipwreck and the Japanese Gardens. The sites were very busy, as it is a holiday weekend, so I think much of the marine life was scared away. But they were good shallow dives (I realized I haven't done shore dives since I was certified 24 years ago) and the coral looked to be in pretty good shape and I just played around with my GoPro. No nudibranch or seahorse sightings, which made me kind of sad. 
But in looking at some of my GoPro pictures, I realized that a) I am terrible at diving AND taking pictures at the same time b) I need filters for color correction on deep shots such as wreck dives and c) I'm pretty sure I got photobombed by fish several times... Ha!