After my arrival in Oaxaca City, I walked around. I instantly loved the city. There is a perfect mix of new, colorful buildings interspersed with old beautiful churches. The plazas surrounded by cobblestone streets are filled with kids playing, adults chatting, live music, and occasional dancing. The streets are easy to navigate and it seems there is something to look at everywhere you turn. 
After a quick walk to get my bearings, I meet up with the two women I rode with from San Agustinillo for a drink at Cafe Praga. Like many bars and restaurants, it has live jazz music downstairs and an upstairs outdoor patio that looks over the beautiful central church, all lit up at night. 
I had my first mezcal drink with hibiscus. Afterwards, we went to a restaurant called La Biznaga, one of the many fusion restaurants of new and traditional Oaxacan food. Oaxaca is known as a foodie city and is best know. for its mole (supposedly as many different types of moles as days of the week, with different varieties of each type). For dinner, I had thin sliced chicken wrapped around plantain in guava mole sauce that was delicious.The next morning, the hotel staff helps me figure out how to catch the bus to Ocotlan for market. It can be confusing, as there are multiple bus companies and multiple bus stations, depending on where you are going. But since I love outdoor markets, I wanted to check out Ocotlan's which occurs every Friday.
On my way, weaving through town, I happened upon some sort of festival in a town square. Cute older women all dressed up with dapper older gentlemen handing out flowers to each of them with a live band playing nearby. One of the older gentleman saw me watching the festivities from a nearby wall and he came over and gave me a red carnation. It was very sweet, and I in turn, gift the flower to an elderly woman walking past me on the way to the bus terminal.The colectivo shuttle is only 25 pesos each way and drops you right at the Ocotlan market.
It is a decent sized market with so many good things to eat! 
Pork and chicken tacos, ice cream, pineapple with chili salt, empanadas filled with squash blossoms, cheese, and tomato sauce... and everything is from 5 to 15 pesos. 
Spent the day people watching as they walked past with their purchases (sometimes food, sometimes a goat, or a large turkey) and wandering. Also went to see the town church, which was colorful on the outside with beautiful wood carved doors.
After I made it back to the city, I wandered around to find a dinner spot. Happened upon a spot not on my list of recommendations, but it looked cute and had a very homey feeling to it, so I was drawn in. The restaurant was called El Escapulario. 
The recommended restaurants in Oaxaca lean towards trendy, which is not really my style. The place was hot, as it was upstairs with an area to look out over the action on the street. A woman appeared to own, manage, and cook all the food. Instead of the trendy restaurant huge open kitchens, she cooked out of a closet sized kitchen which smelled amazing. Based on the decor, she loved the color purple, chia pet gardening and Frieda Kahlo, and took great pride in her cooking... my kind of lady. 
It was relatively early, so it turned out to be just me and another couple in the restaurant. The woman lived in Mexico City and the couple both spoke Spanish and they let me try all their appetizers they had ordered. They also suggested if I like Oaxaca to try San Cristóbal de las Casas in the Chiapas next, which I just may do as it has been on the list! Delicious garnachas, chili releno stuffed with cheese curds and nuts in an orange sauce, and amazing black mole. For my dinner, I chose creme de chapulines soup (cream and grasshopper which comes out in a boiling pot with meltey cheese at the bottom) and pork mole rojo. I do not think food comes any better than this! I could eat that chili releno every day for the rest of my life. Stuffed, I walked the city at night, enjoying all the cathedrals and people out wandering. There are several blocks blocked to traffic that everyone wanders, and it is hopping on a Friday night. But everyone is always so nice here, always with a friendly hello or good morning/afternoon/evening as they pass.
Up early the next morning, I wandered the city some more. Had a tamale in a baguette for breakfast and hot chocolate from a guy on a bicycle outside the Santo Domingo church. 
Met a guy from Puebla that spoke a little English who had spent the night outside the church and we spent the day wandering around, taking photos, checking out little alleys and looking for street art. We visited a few churches and window shopped. 
We went to the huge Central de Abastos Market and grabbed chupalines (spicy grasshoppers), chicharon the size of a child (I kept trying to get a smaller piece, but it was still huge) and a fruit I had seen the previous day that I had never seen called mamey. 
We went for coffee and practiced our English/Spanish. Checked out a Graphics museum and a few art galleries and grabbed homemade ice cream at Manolo Nieves. I chose Albahacar con queso cabra, only because I had no idea what it was. Turns out it is basil and goat cheese, and it was surprisingly delicious and refreshing. Went to the Centro Fotografico Alvarez Bravo that is smaller but packed with a great black and white photography exhibit. My friend and I parted ways, as I went back to shower. My hotel doesn't appear to have hotel water at the times I shower. Strange because it does at other times, but not that bad as it is hot and a cool shower is nice-ish? Headed to a recommended place called Los Pacos for dinner and splurged and got the mole combination plate with six different types. Each mole is different and each has lots of ingredients (several have over 30 ingredients). The negra is dark, smoky, chocolatey and delicious. Verde is lighter and made with green tomatillos and herbs with corn mixed in this version. The Colorado or Colorodita is red with hints of chocolate and some spice. Amarillo is orange and mild, made with pimento, and one of my favorites. Alcaparrado is one not on the regular mole list and is amazing and made of green tomatoes, capers, olives, and a hint of cinnamon. Estofada was good but not my favorite (not sure what is in it). I would recommend Las Pacos as a great way to try a variety of moles to compare and contrast, but the ambience was far less inviting than El Escapulario.Sunday is supposedly a very special market in a nearby town near the mountains.
The hotel shows me on a map where to go to catch the bus or colective taxis to Tlacolula for huge Sunday Market. I find the area behind the baseball stadium, but can't find the bus. Some guy waves my down and offers me a spot in a small colectivo taxi car. Maybe not the most comfortable ride, but cheap and left right away:) I arrive early before the other tourists and enjoy a hot chocolate and a yummy torta for breakfast while chatting with merchants and watching them set up. People come to this market in colorful traditional clothing. 
Other tourists started showing up and some were being super rude, sticking cameras in their faces and taking pictures of them without even speaking to them or asking permission. I got in an argument with a guy over it after watching him do it to an elderly lady, so I stepped in front of the camera and gestured to her to ask if it was okay. She shook her head now and tried to hide her face and he continued. Maybe I just unleashed on the dude, but he had it coming. She smiled and shook and clenched my hand after he left, making it totally worth the confrontation.
There was some BBQing set up that I had to watch for a while to figure out how it worked. I figured out how to go to one of the butcher stalls and was given the meat I chose on a plate. I took it over to the grill the butcher sent me to to start cooking the meat I just purchased. Vendors see a new person on the grill and flock over with all kinds of accompaniments: peppers, onions, salsa, avocado, tortillas, etc. (all for a few pesos). Nearby locals try to help me through the process. Since most come in large bunches and much more than even I can eat, I am throwing extra veggies and things on neighbors' grills (much to the amusement of everyone). 
It was pretty fun! Some tour group came by and started explaining to the group what I was doing, at which point my perfect English "I have NO idea what I am doing... I am from Seattle!" surprised and made them all laugh. Later, headed over to a beautiful church in the town plaza. I grabbed a some random drink called tejate (corn, mamey seeds, peanuts and chocolate drink?). Strange and not my favorite, but worth 5 pesos. Mass was going on in the church, so I headed over to check out a free medical clinic they had going on. Pretty neat set-up with a mammogram bus, glucose checks and vital sign checks, along with alternative medicine stuff. 
One of the staff talked me in to playing some ring toss game and I won a free t-shirt (apparently, the ring toss is not my strong suit and I was initially beat by a five year old). Then went back to check out the church, which had a beautiful silver chandelier-filled chapel. And chatted about mezcal with a small batch artisanal mezcal producer who had set up a stand next to a nun selling cookies. Nope...totally not awkward!Had enough of the market as it was getting really full, so tried to find the bus or collectivo stand heading to a nearby town called Mitla. People kept giving me incorrect directions and I ended up walking a ways until finding the livestock area of the market. People were carting around sheep, cattle, pigs, and chickens. A guy was holding an enormous pig up by two legs and smacking it on the belly (maybe this is how you pick a winner pig?? Heck if I know). They gave me better directions on how to find the right collectivo stand and I managed to catch one after a small wait. This shared taxi was full! I sat on the stick shift of the small car which held six adults and a baby. Arrived in Mitla to try to make it to this place called Hierve de Agua. I walked through the town and waited around to try to get more people for a collectivo to Hierve de Agua but after about an hour wait, I was told it was too late. I found out once I made it back to my hotel in Oaxaca City that Mexico has a different Daylight Savings day than the US and clocks had been sprung forward an hour, at some point. Doh! I ended up catching a large public transport old school bus back to the city. My friends from San Agustinillo had finished their business in Taxco and were overnighting in the city on their way back home, so I joined them again for dinner and drinks. Dinner was at a restaurant with a good location overlooking the main plaza. It was nice seeing familiar faces, but the food wasn't that great with the exception of the roasted poblano and corn soup starter.
The next morning I decided to venture to a small rural town I had heard of called San Martin Tilcajete. I have always been obsessed with these colorful, wooden Mexican animal figurines called alebrijes. Turns out they are made in a few small towns outside of Oaxaca such as this one. I figured out I could catch the same shuttle bus I took to the Ocotlan market, but just let the driver know where I wanted to go, as it was on the way. At some point, he pulls off to the side of the highway with very little surrounding it and lets me know I had arrived. I hop out and there is just one long road, so I start walking.
I soon start seeing handmade signs for alebrijes for sale. Once I hit the actual town, the signs were basically on every house. It was amazing! There are over 30 artists, most running shops out of their houses. Most were just sitting in the dark, working on their craft. But each would greet you and flip the lights on of their workshop, full of hundreds of pieces to choose from. 
And a small fraction of the price, from what you can buy them for here in the States. Each artist has their own style and I learned so much! Some families carve the wood into the figurines and others paint them. Some use different types of wood. Some make more realistic looking animals and some more fanciful. 
Some use bright colors and some incorporate more of the natural wood look, using the unique knots and gnarls of each specific piece of wood. Most did not speak much English, and yet again, I wish I spoke Spanish so I could have asked more questions and learned more. Spent all day wandering the town. 
Most had a no photographs rule, so you will just have to take my word on it about how amazing some of these pieces are. Sadly, I couldn't find any restaurants open for food (I did not see any other tourists, other than a busload of nearby school kids on a field trip). I tided myself over when I tracked down an old woman making handmade ice cream by twirling the metal containers in a wooden barrel full of ice and salt. Three flavors and 5 pesos a scoop, I tried all three. Super yummy! 
I managed to choose some of my favorites and purchase several different alebrijes to take home, trying to spread my money out between different families. But eventually headed back to the city, as I was super hungry and pretty hot after walking around all day in the sun. Walked back to the main highway and waited for a shuttle bus to come by. But most that passed me were full. The highway was hot with no shade. A big rig commercial truck pulled up and I saw the guy just watching me from his truck. I was wondering if it was going to be an issue, but he stayed in the truck. Finally, I flagged down a shuttle bus that wasn't full. The trucker made sure I got on, tipped his hat and smiled and waved. Pretty sure he was just making sure I was okay in the heat, by myself. So nice! 
I decided to try out as many different restaurants as possible by just eating appetizers in each. I went back to El Escapulario for the chile rellenos with cheese curds, nuts, and an orange sauce. Seriously, sooooo good!! I tried guarachos one of the recommended and highly acclaimed Zanduga restaurant. I did not like the feel of the restaurant, which had a New York style chic meets Mexico vibe that may work for some, but I do not need when traveling. And I tried one other recommended restaurant, which also felt geared to tourists. I finished my night by visiting the ice cream store I had previously found and loved. Some random kid hit on me and asked me out, until he found out I was his dad's age at which point he introduced me to his dad... ummm, still a no. But at least I found out they had bought me my ice cream after they had left and I went to pay.
On my last day in this beautiful city, I stayed in the city to see more sights. I skipped the free breakfast at my hotel because I wanted to start my day with a fabulous breakfast at my now favorite El Escapulario. Coffee and super yummy omelet where you can pick three ingredients from the list which included grasshoppers or squash blossoms to the more basic cheese or chorizo. The lovely owner/chef and I chatted and I told her it was my last full day here, as I was flying home on my birthday early the next morning. The local baseball team was playing a home game that night, and I thought I would treat myself as an early birthday celebration. She made me promise to come in for my last dinner before the game, which was perfect as I loved every single dish she had brought to my table and I still hadn't tried her amarillo mole (yes, there really is enough mole varieties that you could eat a different one each day of the week). 
After breakfast, I headed to see the botanical garden, which is only available on a tour. The tour did not appear to be offered in English that day, as I asked and the not so nice people at the desk just shook their head and said "no, not today." So I went on the one in Spanish. The grounds were quite nice, but they herd you around like cattle, making sure everyone stays in a tight group and doesn't stray even a few feet from the others. 
Afterwards, I went to the nearby Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, which was really nice and it turns out had great views of the botanical garden (and could have saved me the money and time of the tour). 
Walked to the local marketplace to pick up last minute gifts and wandered the city one last time before heading back to the hotel to pack for the early next morning departure. A few hours before the baseball game, I headed back to El Escapulario as promised for my 
last real meal in Oaxaca. Had the most wonderful meal with the subtle and deliciously flavored yellow mole. After my meal, the owner came over with a small decorated bag and handed it to me. In it was a red and blue embroidered shirt that she had gotten as a birthday gift for me. It totally made me cry at her generosity and kindness, which in turn made her tear up. So nice that someone would take the time to reach out and do something for an almost stranger who doesn't even really speak much of the same language. Hugs goodbye and off I go.
I walk over to the stadium for a Oaxaca Guerrero baseball game. There is fabulous street art along the whole street behind the stadium. I buy my ticket a few minutes before the game and get front row seat right above the dugout. Along with two big beers, and an official hat, the grand total is $23! 
I cheer hard for the home team, making everyone laugh around me. I take in all the differences such as the cheerleaders on the field between innings, the different food vendors, strange 80s hair metal band videos on the big screen, different song and lyrics for the seventh inning stretch, and how brutal people are at yelling at the umpires (I don't know all that much Spanish, but I do know when someone is talking about someone else's mother and the ump did not look very happy about it). 
But in the end, we scored two runs in the bottom of the ninth inning to win 4-3!!! The crowd and players went wild and all the people in the stands were high fiving. Great way to spend a warm evening and great way to wrap up a fabulous trip. Oaxaca City is may just be one of my favorite cities ever. I honestly can't imagine anyone not loving it.Trip photos are up onlineor you can view them as a slideshow.
Love,
Betsy
Right on the beach with a perfect view, the cabana was a perfect combo of rustic and nice. Brand new, comfy hammock on my deck, big bed with a mosquito net, mostly enclosed with openings for air in the large bathroom (no hot water) and huge doors in the front to open to the sea breeze. Relaxed for the remainder of the afternoon in my hammock and maybe bought homemade tamales and salsa from a plastic bag when a woman came up to my deck trying to sell them. Stomach of iron, don't fail me now!! 
They were pretty good. Tired after all the travel and trying to get off night shift, I headed across the street for dinner. The rotisserie chicken restaurant was recommended by my hotel owner and had choices of honey, pineapple, or mango that day. The mango chicken was super succulent with a pureed mango and spice mixture rubbed between the chicken and skin and then spit roasted to perfection. Met some ex-pats there and a woman from NY who lives here and runs her own jewelry business may be heading to Taxco and overnighting in Oaxaca City the same day I am heading there. She says she can give me a ride if it works out, which would be awesome. There is talk of air mattress surfing in the morning, which I agreed to maybe participate in and/or go laugh at. Early night, as I am exhausted.
So the next morning, I wake up early and head to the next town of Mazunte to find the ATM. Saw huge birds in the trees that a few of us were trying to get a better look at. One guy asked if they thought it was a parrot (clearly not, as they were brown) and I said "no, but THAT is", pointing to a local on a motorbike driving past with a parrot on his head. So random. 
Continuing my quest, the only ATMs I could find were broken, but lots of cute restaurants in this town and stopped for coffee and breakfast of green chicken enchiladas with an egg and beans. This town appears to be full of yoga fanatics and hippies. Spoke with a nice, retired French man waiting for his daughter to arrive. Walked back to San Agustinillo. Everyone is so friendly and says hello or good morning. Laid in my hammock, reading, napping, and watching the surfers from my deck. 
Turns out, I can buy anything from my hammock! Tamales, fish and potatoes, jewelry, brownies and a shot of mezcal, or even another hammock! Watched the local kids fly kites and body board at sunset. At night, I head back to Mazunte for fish dinner. Only thing to note for others making the trip is that there is a stretch of the road with no street lights, so bring a headlamp or phone flashlight.
Such good sleeps here! The crashing waves, cool ocean breeze and so many stars at night are perfect for snoozing away. Woke up and heading back to Mazunte for attempt number two of obtaining cash. Ran in to the French man again on the street, whose daughter still hadn't arrived. We had coffee and breakfast at the same spot. Tried to switch it up and had entomadas de queso. We made a plan to meet up the next morning to check out Centro Mexicano del la Tortuga, the Turtle Conservation Museum featuring land and sea turtles, which had been closed since I arrived. Not five minutes after leaving breakfast, a guy walked past me selling empanadas and fresh pastries. 
I picked a mango jam with baked pineapple chunk pastry, which was amazingly delicious. Found the working ATM (I surely wouldn't have found it without the help of someone at the hotel, as it is tucked in to the side of a flip flop and beachware store with little signage). Then headed back to San Agustinillo. I had gotten sunburned the previous day, so tried to mostly stay out of the sun and read my book on butterflies, of which I have seen many here. There was a whale spotting way off shore, which we could just barely see from the beach. Chatted with others at my hotel and got some tips on restaurants in Oaxaca.
Great set up and loved seeing the little sea turtle swimming about and a big sea turtle that was likely about to outgrow its home and be released into the sea. We parted ways and I headed back to my hotel. By this point, I feel like I recognize lots of people along the way. Stop in to chat with the fisherman, who brought in about 70 shark today and are gutting them along the beach. Apparently, that is about all they can catch to survive around this time, and at least they are using the whole shark and not just cutting off the fin and letting the rest go to waste. They offered to take me out in the afternoon for about $10, but the seas got really rough and opted for a day of swimming at the next beach over, protected by some big rocks. The undertow is pretty strong here, so I stay close to shore. More eating random things brought by vendors along the beach and an afternoon homemade double scoop of tiramisu and plantain (like less sweet banana) ice cream from the small spot across from my hotel. 
Had an amazing last dinner of BBQ fish at this spot two doors down from my hotel. Beautiful candle lit tables overlooking the beach owned by this older gentleman that I have seen hard at work all day, the last few days. He brings out a charcoal grill and makes a mean BBQ fish (which was maybe shark steak, as that is all they caught that day and was similar in texture to the other time I had BBQ shark). Finalize plans to head to Oaxaca City the next morning with the woman I met the first night.
It is a beautiful drive with cool, fresh smelling air. Sometimes almost jungle looking landscape and then up the mountains filled with pine trees with air plants. Stopped in San Mateo, a little town atop of the hill for a yummy chorizo and cheese torta and delicious coffee (there are many coffee fincas along the road). Super cheap (lunch was a little over $2) and if I were to do it again, I would stay in this town for a night or two as the cabins have gorgeous views and fireplaces. As we get closer to Oaxaca City, the landscape becomes more like a desert. There are these beautiful purple blossoming trees which break up the desert landscape. We make good time, but hit Oaxaca city traffic, a bit of a jar after little beach town life. There are people selling boxing gloves and a mini punching bag, walking up and down stopped traffic. Maybe in case you experience road rage? Ha! Get dropped off at my hotel, 
I headed out walking to explore and get my bearings and almost instantly love this city. Art everywhere, beautiful architecture, colorful buildings, and amazing food choices. Make it to Cafe Praga, in the pedestrian only area for my first mezcal drink with honey and hibiscus. Yummy but super strong. We have dinner at an amazing restaurant called La Biznaga, where I ordered chicken wrapped around plantains in a guava mole sauce. Oh boy, am I in trouble with all this amazing food.