It is currently government run and the schedules were known to be lax, with boats often breaking down. In fact, the most up to date information on ferries seems to be on a Facebook page where citizens post up to date info for the day (on a page that uses a photo from the movie Bird Box with Sandra Bullock blindfolded in a boat as their cover page...showing how much the residents trust the system). They had also recently moved most ferries from Fajardo to Ceiba and the new facility infrastructure was not suppose to be that great. So I was ready for it to be a big hassle, but in fact, it surprisingly went rather smoothly! We drove to Ceiba and left the car, as no tourists can get cars on to the island. We managed to purchase our ticket for what I thought was the tourist schooner, but they loaded us up on an earlier departing cargo boat. 
They let us go sit on the cargo platform, and it was nice to lay in the sunshine with the waves (even when one splashed up over the side and soaked me, much to everyone's amusement). We arrived earlier than check-in at our apartment, but I had arranged to leave our bags. The apartment was in a perfect location next to a canal and near the ferry terminal and several restaurants. We grabbed a quick lunch and headed to Flamenco Beach for the rest of the day. 
There are big group shuttle buses that run from the ferry terminal to Flamenco Beach. It used to be used as testing grounds of the US military, but now ranks in the top of several rankings most beautiful beach in the world awards. It really was picture perfect, even with the crowds. There are also two rusted old tanks to explore on the beach, which people decorate and graffiti from time to time. 
We just played in the water a bunch and happened to run in to the couple who suggested we eat at the roadside stand when at El Yunque, so chatted with them a bit. We headed back to town in time for me to talked to Culebra Divers dive company that also rented snorkel gear near the ferry terminal. I found the woman at the desk to be unknowledgeable (she told me there were nudibrachs didn't exist in Puerto Rico... only in places like Fiji) and a bit rude, so ruled out diving with them or giving them any business whatsoever (which she did not seem interested in, any way). 
We walked over to our apartment, the Blue Flamingo at Culebra Linda Apartments, and checked in. It was perfect! Two rooms, nice kitchen, and a large balcony deck next to the canal to watch boats come and go. We even had a little resident gecko on the balcony deck that I named Samuel. 
We found an amazing grocery store, Colmada Milka, right next to our apartment that was small but somehow stuffed with goodies, even stuff that I don't see in Seattle like Enstrom toffee. We each grab groceries and I grabbed meat, cheese, and olives and enjoy a tapas dinner on the balcony. Wade and I played cribbage on the balcony surrounded by twinkling red and green lights until bed.
The next day, Naomi and Wade both succumbed to their bad sunburns and decided to stay out of the sun. I checked out a different dive company named Aquatic Adventures near the apartment in the morning. Well, technically I went to the shop because there were a bunch of cats there and I wanted to pet them all. But then one of the owners showed up and she seemed so much more likeable then my experience the day before. And she must be good people because she fed the cats (and one chicken) that were outside and they all seemed to know when she got to work. 
I decided I would go snorkeling and see what I could for the day and then decide what to do the next day. I went off to snorkel at Playa Tamarindo, which was easy to catch a ride to on the shared shuttle to Playa Flamenco. It quickly became an overcast day, so it was a perfect day to spend snorkeling. 
The water was nice and calm, so even though I only brought my mask and snorkel and no fins, I could still swim way out. I saw several rays, four turtles, and a barracuda. It was mainly sand and seagrass, and a small coral rebuilding area that some University of Puerto Rico students were working on. 
It started to pour rain, and there were very few people out at this beach. I was going to walk back to the main road to try to catch a taxi, but managed to hitch a ride on the back of an older couple's golf cart (the way lots of people get around). Turns out they were from Kingston! We decide to go to dinner at one of the popular restaurants, Dinghy Dock, across the street from our apartment. First we stopped in to a little art gallery next door (between Dinghy Dock and the nice dive shop, Aquatic Adventures). Naomi found a beautiful necklace that she bought. We ended up getting a table next to the water and watch the huge tarpons swimming around looking for table scraps that people throw them. We all agreed that dinner was good, but not worth the money. I decided to skip diving the next day and try to get to a small island called Culebrita that had been recommended to me by my friend, Dan. I will have to try to get some diving in if we make it to Greece in the Fall. Wade and I play more cribbage on the deck and then off to bed.I woke up early and start making phone calls to try to get to Culebrita. The first guy I called was super nice, but heading out on vacation. He texts me a bunch of phone numbers of other boat operators. After several calls, I got a hold of someone at H2O Water Taxi (787-685-5815 or watertaxih2o@hotmail.com) who said their early boat was full, but if they could find a few more people, they would be able to take us. She called back in about an hour, saying they had enough people to go out. We made it to the dock specified by a google map point. There, we met up with another a couple and a group of the nicest older folks. We head out on this little boat and the waves are choppy, but our boat driver German is excellent. It did scare one of the older ladies and she had a bit of a panic attack.
On the way, we passed this HUGE futuristic, James Bond-looking megayacht which turned out to be "Sailing Yacht A", the world’s largest sailing yacht. We arrived safely at this amazing little beach with the whitest sand on an undeveloped island. A little sea turtle even came to greet the boat and a little crab awaited us on the beach! The older gentleman of the group had difficulty getting around as his legs had pretty bad edema, so we all helped each other get to shore. 
Then I went off snorkeling and chasing turtles around. Our boat driver had snorkel gear for everyone, so Wade tried his hand at snorkeling. The beach has a big hole that must have had a nesting turtle in it recently, with evidence of little broken shells. We walked to go visit tide pools and climbed up to see the views. On the way back, we saw wild goats (sadly, I didn't have my zoom lens with me for some reason). 
I also found some really different looking lizards. It was pretty hot, so we didn't walk to go check out the old lighthouse because I wasn't sure if you were allowed in it (the info I saw on it said "do NOT go in, it is very unsafe but the views from the top are beautiful"... ummm, mixed messages anyone?!?). When we got back, we played with the hermit crabs that seemed to sense when a bag of chips was opened from wherever they were hiding (not unlike my co-workers). 
Sadly, the day had to come to an end and we all packed up and helped each other back on the boat. I said goodbye to my beach crab who had barely moved all day and the little turtle who was still swimming around near the boat. It was a perfect day with a perfect group of people. When we got back to Culebra, one of the ladies in the group of older folks invited us to dinner at their condo in Condado in San Juan. Sadly, we the timing wasn't going to work out, but she texted Wade later and said the next time we come back, we are to message her. Wade later said that a conversation they had while I was snorkeling made it sound like the older gentleman may or may not have been the former president of Bacardi. We had decided to rent a jeep on our last day on the island as it would allow us to see more of the island and have a place to store our luggage after an 11am checkout from the apartment (there is really only two choices... a golf cart or a jeep for rental transportation on the island). 
Since the jeep rental is for 24 hours with free pickup and dropoff and we were catching a late afternoon ferry, we had the jeep rental place come pick us up at the boat dock and went and grabbed a jeep. We went back and grabbed Naomi, heading out to watch sunset back on the beach I went snorkeling the day before. We go back and shower before heading to dinner. 
Sadly, dinner was kind of a bust as the restaurant I had heard good things about was closed. Construction was being done on the main road in town, so lots of businesses were closed. We ended up driving around and stopped for loaded baked potatoes and churros at a stand called Sweet and Salty on the side of the road.
Our last day, and my birthday! We wake up and pack. I sit on the balcony with my breakfast coffee (man, the coffee is so good here) and watch a little old lady fishing across the canal at Mamacita's, cat at her feet. We loaded our luggage in the jeep and set off to explore the island after the 11am checkout. We visit the little history museum and drive around the island, checking out some of the farther beaches like Zoni Beach and watch pelicans on the way to Playa Punta Soldado where I take my last ocean swim. 
We drop off the jeep and they drive us to the ferry dock where we catch the fast tourist schooner ferry back to Ceiba. Luckily, our rental car is just fine after sitting for a few days and we drive to Fajardo to check in for our bioluminescent bay kayaking tour. I have a yummy birthday dinner of garlic butter fish and rice and beans. The bioluminescent bay tour with Peniel Access Tours is a blast. Puerto Rico has three of the only five bioluminescent bays in the world. The brightest in PR is supposedly on Vieques, but this one is second brightest. The glowing water is best seen with no moon, and that happened to fall right near my birthday. We head out at 8pm, so it is pretty dark. We pair up and each two man kayak cuts across the ocean into a mangrove channel. We slowly kayak through the channel, trying not to bump in to each other (there are lots of tours all out at once). 
The channel opens up to a bay with the dinoflagellates. While the water doesn't glow all blue like they make the photoshopped photos, it still does shimmer and make it look like you are pouring white glitter out of your hands when you move the water around and pour it out of your hand. Pretty magical! Wade and I did a good job working together to not bump in to too much or tip over. We still have a few hours before returnoing the rental car and checking in for our 5am flight. So we find a place to shower at the public beach behind the men's room. We try to dry our wet clothes on rusty wrought iron chains and dance in the street to people playing music and hanging out. We then drive back to San Juan and pop in to a late night dining spot called Waiter's Gastro Bar in Condado area for second dinner :) I had the best rice with homemade sausage dish that was enough to feed three people. Sadly, all good trips have to end, and we head off to return the car and check in for our flights home. Puerto Rico was a blast, and we just may have to return!Trip photos are up online or you can view them as a slideshow.
We showered up and headed to La Plaza del Mercado Santurce, which is a Farmer's Market by day and a dining/entertainment spot at night. Lots of people and music, we grabbed some empanadas and other fried treats at a smaller stand called Frituras. We put our name in at a restaurant with a small outdoor seating are in the Plaza called Boronia and went to enjoy a drink while waiting for a table. They called us when a table was open and I split a fried cheese with guava sauce appetizer and enjoyed a delicious conch mofongo for dinner. We walked around a little after dinner and then headed back to the apartment, as I wanted to get an early start to beat the crowds in old San Juan the next morning.
Day two, I make some delicious Puerto Rican coffee I bought at the grocery store and get everyone up around 7am to walk around Old San Juan. We make the quick drive over and find all day parking for $3, a steal compared to Seattle parking prices! We wander in and out of little cobblestone streets, taking photos of and enjoying all the brightly colored buildings. It is a beautiful old city, especially when there are few people out yet. We walk past Castillo San Cristobal, but it isn't open for several hours. We enjoy the ocean views from the old, massive, crumbling city walls, as Old San Juan is a small island connected with bridges. 
We wander above and past La Perla, the colorful, old shantytown directly outside the city wall. Wade and I wander through a cemetery on the hill right along the ocean. You probably know by now that I love wandering cemeteries, and this one is set in one of the most amazing settings. We stop and watch people surfing and see large cargo ships pass. 
In addition to my usual trying to find my headstones or grave markers and trying to find the oldest or youngest person, there are also dog, cats, chickens, and iguanas roaming around to play with. One green iguana rustled out of a broken grave and scared Wade half to death! Finally, we head back and find Naomi who was napping in the grass. We stop at Mil Letras Art and Coffeehouse a sandwich, pastry, and you guessed it... coffee. 
By now, Old San Juan is waking up and getting more crowded. We head off to Fortaleza Street, as I want to see the colorful street of umbrellas I had heard about. We happened upon a building that looked non-descript from the outside, but a man invited us in. 
Turned out it was the Seminario Conciliar de San Ildefonso and there was a sweet older gentleman that seemed to take great pride in the building. He kept encouraging us to explore all of the rooms and areas inside. It was really gorgeous inside, and a nice reprieve from the crowds and heat of the day with peaceful gardens, detailed architecture and vibrant colors. 
Afterwards, we headed to the fort with the lighthouse, Castillo San Felipe del Morro or "El Morro". The plan was to renew my recently expired annual National Parks pass, as I need one and it would cover each person's $7 entry fee, but they had run out at that fort. The ranger was pretty sure the had annual passes left at the other fort, which was back near where we parked. So we headed back to Castillo San Cristobal. 
It is the largest fortress of the Americas and was full of artillery ramps, cannons, tunnels, and great views of the city. The weather is starting to look a bit stormy and Old San Juan is packed by now. Naomi stayed in Old San Juan, but Wade and I head back to the car and go for a late lunch. We ate at La Casita Blanca, a spot suggested by Dan, a friend from my freshman year of college that grew up in Puerto Rico and returned after college. The restaurant is cute, built in a little neighborhood house. They have a small daily menu on a chalkboard that they bring to the table, along with complimentary fritters and plantain soup to start. I enjoyed my lunch of chicharrones pollo (like fried chicken) with rice and beans, with several shakes of the homemade hot sauce on the table. They also bring complimentary shot of chichaito (anise liquor) with 3 coffee beans. Afterward, we decide to drive to beaches out of San Juan in an area to the northeast called Loiza, recommended to me by another friend. It was a nice drive, as once you are out of the city, it feels like a totally different place. Driving on a more "jungley" road with some sad, squished iguanas on the road who had come to sun themselves and didn't get out of the way of traffic, we reached the small beach town with food shacks along the road and small secluded beaches all along the road. Sadly, the weather just didn't make for a nice beach afternoon, but it was still a fun little adventure.
The next day, I had a plan to walk back to the La Plaza del Mercado Santurce to check out the farmer's market during the morning and take photos of some of the fun graffiti mural art we had passed. Bonus for Wade is that he could sleep in! Naomi joined me and we had a nice little walk. The market wasn't really all that great, but it was totally different looking in the daylight. We split a fruit shake and I had some fried empandas for breakfast. Naomi grabbed some fruit and I grabbed some meat and cheese from the butcher for hiking snacks. Wade came and picked us up and we headed on a trip to the infamous "Pork Road" in Guavate that I heard so much about. I planned a few stops along the way, as we didn't want to get to lunch too early. First, we stopped at a botanical garden in Caguas, but looked more like a golf course at the entrance and the admission fee seemed a bit high so we headed to town. Caguas seemed like a cute town. They had family fun stuff set up in the town plaza. And a few small museums which are all within an easy walking distance. 
We visited the history museum and tobacco museum before heading for lunch. Made it to Guavate, where there are roast pig stalls all along the road. We headed to the coordinates of one that my friend Dan said was best. Ordered our portions of roasted pig with extra skin that was crispy and delicious before heading to the cafeteria style area to pick out some sides. It was soooo yummy! After lunch, we decided to take a different, longer way back to the city. We continued on through mountains. The winding roads had beautiful views and around almost every corner was a small roadside bar. Sadly, Naomi apparently gets motion sickness, so she did not enjoy the ride as much as Wade and I did. 
We stop at Canyon de San Cristobal and take in the fresh mountain air. There are these cool trees that have brown bark, but peels underneath with different shades of orange, red, and green. It reminded me of when we used to use colored crayons on paper and then cover the colors with black crayon so that when you scratch the black off, the colors show underneath. We walked over to the lookout point to the canyon and river below. 
Next, we hopped back in the car and headed to an old hydroelectric dam lookout in Comerio on the Río La Plata. We pass through a few smaller towns with no traffic lights, as there is no power still. People just blare their horn and go through the four way stop. The dam was built around 1910, but is no longer in use. We headed back to San Juan. Naomi prepped herself to go salsa dancing in Old San Juan while Wade and I met with my friend Dan, who I hadn't seen since freshman year of college, and his family for dinner. We ate at a place called Mi Defensa Los Pescao. It was really a treat to get to see an old friend and meet his wife and kids and the food was fabulous. It was both interesting and heartbreaking to hear their stories about Hurricane Maria. There was also a stray cat at the restaurant that I really wanted to bring home with me. It was so friendly and would bop up like a bunny to reach your hand so you would pet it. Wade may or may not have caught me the next morning researching how to bring a cat from Puerto Rico back to Seattle. There are soooo many stray animals all over Puerto Rico, abandoned or lost after the hurricane. As some had not been spayed or neutered, they are now having stray kittens and puppies running around.
We ended up on the first tour and were lucky to only have ourselves and another couple on the tour (the next tour had a huge, loud girl scout troop). The cave was fun and we got to see bats, a few cave spiders, and a Puerto Rican yellow tree boa. The cave opens up to the top of a limestone cliff, giving a window to the beautiful valley below. 
Next, we headed to the second world's largest single dish radio telescope at the Arecibo Observatory. We wandered and played at the exhibits at a fun little museum before heading to the lookout. Completed in 1963 in a large sinkhole, the dish is an impressive 1,000 feet wide and 167 feet deep. It is known for being the first to directly image an asteroid, and discovered the first planets outside our solar system, as well as studies of extraterrestrial intelligence. After the observatory, we headed to lunch at Restaurante Hacienda Lealtad in Lares, a coffee hacienda/cafe on a mountaintop. The hostess spoke was the only one who spoke English, but she managed to get us a table on the beautiful outdoor porch, overlooking the canyon. 
We both had excellent hamburgers with fried plantains on it and for dessert, I enjoyed one of the best mochas I have ever had. On the way out of the mountains, we drove through San Sebastian to see waterfall Collazo before heading to the coast to check out the beach town of Aguadilla. Aguadilla seemed pretty hard hit by the hurricane and the beach boardwalk was still needing to be rebuilt. 
We were going to stop at a nearby beach, but I needed to put on my swimsuit and the bathrooms were all shuttered. We headed toward Rincon, which also had beaches. I had picked out a beach to relax at but somehow we missed it and ended up in the next little town. Someone gave us directions back and we turned around, hit up a fast food restaurant to change (they don't seem to have public restrooms at gas stations, but no one at fast food restaurants seem to mind if you use their bathrooms). When we got to the beach, it was not the relaxing bob in the ocean I was looking for. Being Sunday afternoon, it was party central with music blaring from all directions. We headed back to the small beach in the next town over and had a quick swim. The town also had noticeable hurricane damage, but some of the residents had prettied up the town with little potted plants using recycled tires and things as planters by the side of the road. Sadly, we were too late to make it much further before the sun set, so I missed out on the abandoned Aguirre Central Sugar Mill. We headed back towards San Juan. It was a terrible drive back. The driving is bad in Puerto Rico during the day, but at night it is an absolute nightmare. Construction zones for miles led to cars driving 60 miles an hour past you in the shoulder. There are cars with fake sirens that they turn on and off to get people to move over. Those stray animals I mentioned earlier are also running around on the side of the highways, and we see a dead cat. Cars zip in and out of lanes and no one uses a turn signal. Everyone is tailgating the car in front of them since if there is any space at all between cars, they seem to think several cars should switch lanes and squeeze in there. And of course the only signs in English are to pay at the toll areas. Thankfully, Wade is a good driver and we make it alive. And I did get to occasionally hear the sound of coquí (the small Puerto Rican frogs), but never did see one on trip.
We ordered several things from the counter (all fried goodies, like much of Puerto Rican food)and it was indeed delicious. The best was the mashed potato beef relleno... I have to figure out how to make that at home. We did the Mt Britton Tower hike, avoiding most of the crowds by taking a service road up. 
We reached the crowds at the top as one group of guys were playing music on a speaker and had their hiking necessity, beer. At least they were nice and shared a beer with Wade. The views from the tower were great and then we walked back through the rainforest path, where you could see regrowth efforts being made in what looked like hay rolls. 
We stopped by La Coca Falls and Bano Grande on the way back out of El Yunque. Oh, and of course we stopped for another mashed potato beef relleno. We drove back the longer way through Loiza for a little afternoon beach and swim time. We found the perfect secluded beach. the weather was perfect and the water was clear water. We got in lots of swimming, although there were some territorial fish that kept nipping at us or chasing us around. 
I walked the whole beach and then came back for another dip in the ocean as Wade went out to check out some afternoon fisherman that showed up and headed out to the rock jetty. Naomi soon joined me in the water, but only because she was chased in by a pack of wild looking dogs. As the sun was setting, we headed to nearby Pinones for dinner. Most of the little food stands Wade and I had seen open on Friday were now closed, so we stopped for a meal at a yummy (and way cheaper than the city) seafood restaurant called La Mamacita. Nice last day in San Juan, as tomorrow we check out of our San Juan AirBnB and head for the island of Culebra!