If you have to sleep in an airport, I suppose the Kota Kinabalu airport isn't half bad. My flight from Phnom Penh to Kuala Lumpur was late. Tried to get standby on the next flight to Kota Kinabalu but there were already 25 people ahead of me. So ended up in Kota Kinabalu late and the cab drivers wanted to charge me $11 each way to my $8 dorm room I had booked in advance. Also noticed my flight the next morning to Tawau was cancelled and wanted to catch the earlier flight instead of later, so would have to be back at the airport early to try to secure a seat. Decided to just bite the $8, and camp out at the airport. Got a few hours of shut eye but got up when they started cleaning around me. McDonalds was the only thing open, so I was forced to grab a bite and some coffee there, but luckily got on the early flight.
After 26 hours of being in airports, I finally got to step foot in Malaysia in Tawau. Wasn't sure how I was getting from Tawau to Semporna, and a nice man on my flight who owned a hotel said he could take me to town to wander around and then ask his driver how to get to Semporna, but as soon as I grabbed my luggage, some guy asked me where I was heading. When I told him I had no set plan really, he offered to sneak me onto the shuttle for cheap with the guests staying at the nice bungalows over the water resort (which I swear I will do one day, even if for only one night). So I got a nice air con ride to Semporna, which was great. It was strange how Malaysia's landscape has the same familiarity of most SE Asia countries. Red earth, green, lots of fruit and palm trees. But it is more modern (there was an all the way PAVED road with lines of where you could pass or not!) and it is mainly Muslim here. There are mosques instead of temples and many woman wear head coverings and some the full face covering. But there are also people who look more like me, so I am still getting spoken to in the local dialect sometimes, if I don't speak first.
Semporna is kind of a dirty town with not much to do and feels a little dodgy. Apparently, it is on a few countries' "areas of Malaysia to avoid" lists. But lots of tourists that are with various dive groups or heading out to an island end up here. I check into the Scuba Junkies dorm for the evening, as I missed the 8am boat to the island. Also missed the early bus I thought about catching to try to see orangutans and proboscis monkeys. Met a nice German man, but I generally kept to myself. There is a swamp out back full of water bottles and trash. But pretty birds hang out in it as well as an enormous monitor lizard that I first thought was a crocodile (I am glad he doesn't seem to be able to get through the flimsy fence). Also saw a few monkeys (not proboscis, though) by the roadside.
Got up super early again (the cat was crying outside my door to get let in), but forced myself to go back to sleep. Bad idea, as I overslept and almost missed the boat to my first dive. Luckily, Scott, my dive instructor came and woke me up and I just threw on my bathing suit and ran to the boat. The boat was full of dive instructors and dive masters, but one of the German guys from the day before (who always runs out if air before me, so I am never the limiting factor which is nice) and Scott are in a group together. We had three great dives today! One dive had a heavy current and chock full of sea life and corals which was fun and another was an artificial reef with lots of underwater structures covered in coral. Saw a giant barracuda inside a structure that I swam right next (saw his huge teeth and wasn't really sure what I was going to do if he came towards me in the confined space), a huge school of jack fish, some rays, clown fish, an octopus, and some really pretty nudibranch. Never found a pygmy seahorse, though. Felt a lot more comfortable with my diving today, which is good as I am one of the lucky seven on the boat heading to Sipadan tomorrow. Took it easy tonight, as I have to be at the boat jetty at 6:15am (Scott warned me that if I overslept, there would be a wait list of 20 people ready to take my spot, as permits are only issued to 120 people a day and required a reservation three months in advance... Even as an instructor, he has never dove it).
Headed back to Semporna by boat the next day and since my hotel was going to charge me too much to get back to the Tawau airport, called the same driver who had given me his number when I arrived. He met me at the boat jetty and he whisked me to the airport so I could make my tight connection and head back to Kota Kinabalu. Surprise, surprise... my flight on Malaysia Airlines had been cancelled. So far, they have only managed to not cancel 1 of 3 of my flights. I now kind of hate Malaysia Airlines. Finally got on a flight. After ten dives in three days and fighting a head cold, my ears were giving me a few problems, but thankfully felt okay-ish on the flight (oh, and I got stung around the leg and arm by a jellyfish underwater yesterday on the third dive, which tends to wipe me out as I get a bad reaction to it).
I only took a few, but my Malaysia trip photos are online or you can view them as a slideshow. Unfortunately, I didn't have an underwater camera (yet... but thanks to my parents, I now have a GoPro for my next travel adventure), but here is a YouTube video from some user named Philippe Miras that had a lot of the same stuff I got to see:
Love,
Betsy
Successfully made it to Phnom Penh. It is hot, dirty, busy, and noisy with lots of traffic. Found a tuktuk driver to drive me around until I found a place to stay that I liked. I made him earn his money, as he had to take me to several places. Some were too dirty, some asking too much for what was offered, some didn't feel safe, and one with a pool in the lobby with all creepy backpacker dudes asking if I brought a bikini. Almost gave up and shelled out the money for an expensive hotel, but he finally took me to a little family guesthouse a few blocks outside the backpacker zone. I liked the woman who owned it right away, as she had an infectious laugh (they rent bikes and one guy was having lots of issues before giving up, much to all of our amusement). She also turned away an older Indian gentleman with an entirely too young Cambodian girl. She gave me the best room in the place on the top floor with a balcony over the city life, ac, a fan, and hot water for only $15. There is a locker for my passport and stuff I don't want to carry and I have my lock from my pac-safe I can use with the locker. And it is right next to their house, so feels very safe.
It was an experience I will never forget. The grounds are actually very peaceful now, with a lake and fruit trees. But in the center is this huge temple structure full of skulls, and there are burial pits cordoned off which people have covered in offerings and colorful bracelets. I paid for the audio tour, which is a couple hours full of history and stories, in the voice of people who lived through it, and how they honor those lost and are doing things today to help try to prevent another such tragedy. It was heartbreaking and overwhelming. I sat alone in one of the little pagodas on the lake, listening to the stories and wiping tears away. After, I went to Toul Sleng, as it too was part of this horrible history. Saw the rooms they were imprisoned in before being sent to the Killing Field. Read stories of both prisoners and people who worked at the prison and why. It was really haunting to see the mug shot photographs of all of the prisoners as they were brought to Toul Sleng. Picture after picture, I had to force myself to look at them all, as I felt they deserved that. Some had faces of defiance, anger, sadness, fright, and some even smiling (some people did not know where they had been sent). They have faces similar to so many I have met on this trip, and it breaks my heart.
My driver didn't want me to end my tour on such a sad note, so he took me to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. Beautiful place to explore the grounds and watch monks in the park. A much more positive end (except for having to yell at a stupid woman who was refused entrance as she had a shawl over her tank top, which every guidebook and signs posted say are forbidden and she proceeds to belittle the man in the ticket booth, hold up the line, and generally be a huge pain... so I maybe unleashed some choice words on her, much to the amusement of everyone else in line.
Got up early the next day and watched the sunrise and street food vendors set up. Headed over to the volunteer organization, and two French girls and an Irish guy were heading out that day. So I decided to go. We drove out about an hour from the city to a place where families are squatting on government land. Disease is a huge issue as is keeping kids in school. We played with the kids in school and they practiced their English with me. Some of these squatters live in small bamboo huts over a polluted swamp. We also took fresh drink water out to the villages, a few bags of rice, and some formula for the babies who needed it. It was sort of fun, but disorganized and I really think the volunteers did not do or add much to the kids day. I also decided I didn't like the organization's owner, even though I think he is doing some really good things. But all in all, worth the day and only cost $5.
Came back and got ready to meet a friend of a friend/old co-worker in Seattle that had recently moved to Phnom Penh to help train some of the young girls who have been forced into prostitution. It was great to talk to him, and I got to eat the fried tarantula that I had heard so much about. The restaurant we went to is kind of like FareStart in Seattle, but they train the poor street kids. It is really cute to see how hard they are working to be good servers with their mentor. And the tarantula was actually really tasty! I had two. I can see why the Cambodian kids like them as a treat (started when people lacked protein and were pushed out of the cities into the countryside and mountains).
My moto driver in Battambang took me to the bus station for my departure to Pursat. He didn't want any money but I made him take a few dollars. The bus was nice and the little old woman next to me switched seats so I could see out the window and shared her roasted peanuts with me. I was the only one that got off in Pursat. I could tell a huge storm was on the way, so I had a tuktuk driver drive me the two minutes to one of the only hotels in town (although they are building what looks to be a nice one across the street). Best dollar I have spent, as the skies opened up a few seconds after I arrived and there was a torrential downpour.
The room is pretty rustic, but clean and has a fan, ac, and tv for $13 ($6 without ac). And who needs hot water, any way (or apparently toilet paper, which I will have to go buy in the morning)?!? Waited a couple hours until the rain stopped and then went to explore and get my bearings. People just stare at me when I am walking which is a little disconcerting, but most eventually smile. Lots of people do double takes on their bikes or motorbikes or ox and cart. Battambang was pretty rural outside the town center, but this is even more so. And almost no one speaks English. At times, it reminds me a little of Africa.
Yesterday morning at breakfast, I met a couple from San Francisco that has been traveling for 14 months. They are super nice and may be the only other tourists in town. They were heading for Kompong Luong, a floating village of both Khmer and Vietnamese people that is about 60km out of town, so I joined them (boats only go with a minimum of 2-3 people). The tuktuk ride to the floating village goes along the main highway, past rice fields with the Cardamom Mountains in the distance. Then we get on a small boat and putter around the floating village. There is everything from a barber shop, petrol station, temple, church, lumber shop, gas station, and even a pool hall but they are all on separate floating boats! The kids all wave hello and blow kisses out their boat house windows as people go on about their daily lives, relaxing in hammocks, buying produce from floating vendors, or washing clothes off their boat deck. I love all the colors! Get back late afternoon and have a nice lunch of ginger chicken and rice and wander around town some more. Watched sunset again over the temple by the river and found some yummy steamed buns on the street near the hotel for dinner.
Today, I was going to catch the bus to Phnom Penh, but after the other tourists' story about someone trying to rob them and dragging her down to the street (she was still pretty shaken and jumpy whenever a motobike goes by), I decide to stay in this quiet little town one more night. It is probably cheaper here, since I will have to find a hotel in Phnom Penh with an in-room safe to lock up my passport, credit cards, and cash, just to be on the safe side. And I still feel like I need to get to know this little town better. So grabbed breakfast and had the best fresh squeezed orange juice (Pursat is known for their oranges) and head off for more exploring. Crossed the river and just walked as far as I could, watching women making fresh rice noodles by the road, townspeople moving their cows or water buffalo up and down the road, and looking in on some of the stone carving this town is known for. The heat of the day was too much, so bought some cold juice and water from a roadside stand outside a village. They invited me to sit down and I ended up hanging out there most of the afternoon. They give me fried treats from the house next door (thinly sliced potato or yam and bananas with sesame seed batter). Several ladies from the nearby village came by and we all sat giggling and pointing to stuff in the store (old bottles full of gasoline for passing motorbikes, live fish, chicken, vegetables, cleaning supplies, pharmacy items, and of course... lotto tickets). They gave the Cambodian word and I gave the English word. As I try to pronounce the Cambodian words, everyone laughs and I am told by Pech, the one that spoke the most English who calls herself my Cambodian sister, that I "have a big tongue" as my pronunciation is apparently bad. Ha! 
I decided to take the boat to Battambang, since I have spent a lot of time on buses and the river is high enough to make it in about 7 hours. It left from a floating village outside of Siem Reap called Chong Kneas. It was really a fun trip, even though I was exhausted. Went through lots of floating villages. Mainly tourists on the boat, but we occasionally stop in a little village to pick up or drop villagers off, with padded seats for about 20 people (plus, we are also allowed to sit on the boat roof). Lots of colors and children all stop to wave hello as the once a day boat passes by. They have everything you would expect in a village: Temple, gas station, mechanic, corner store... except it is all floating on water. Want to visit the neighbor? Row on over! Even saw pets (cats, a monkey chained to a tree, and a guard dog paddling around chasing another dog). There are little waterways cut through thick brush. The boat operators quickly roll down canvas over the boat to keep the branches from thwacking us too hard, and it is kind of like a thumping massage. Some guy thought I was Cambodian and took pictures of me, but all in all, an enjoyable ride.
Once we hit Battambang, I found a hotel in the city center, right across from the local market where I could get my $1.25 noodle soup for breakfast. They claimed to have wi-fi, but it was slow an unreliable. So the next morning, a moto driver said he would take me to look for a better place. I told him what I wanted, and he took me to a perfect spot right across the river. Quieter, much cleaner, newer and nicer rooms, a quick walk over the bridge, and they matched the price of my old hotel (since it is low season and they have lots of empty rooms). Made plans for the moto driver to take me outside the town center the next morning and dropped off my stuff. Looked like it was going to rain so spent the day goofing off around town. Walked up and down the river and through all the streets. Went to a museum with old artifacts (big contrast to the high security of the Smithsonian, as these artifacts are guarded with the same glass and lock that they use to store their potato chips and snacks at the local bars). Visited a few temples and chatted with folks. One had a tiny, little kitten that curled up in my hand an seemed content to stay there, so just walked around the monastery with him for a while, much to the monks amusement. Saw a funeral down a side street (funerals can last several days, depending on how far the relatives have to travel).
The next day, my moto driver came to pick me up at 9am and we headed for the bamboo train. It is really just for tourists now, but it was actually a lot of fun (and will be gone in a few years when they build a real train from Phnom Penh). It only one set of tracks (which are run down and not very straight) and you have to get off when a train comes in the other direction so they dismantle the train and take it off the tracks so the other train can pass and then reassemble it. But it goes through beautiful, lush, green rice fields and the driver let me drive the train for a little while (much to the other passengers dismay).
After the train ride, we went to visit a narrow, rickety village suspension bridge that looked out over the river. It bounced as motorbikes passed and I squished up against the sides to let them pass (until a moto carrying a bunch of cargo came and I ran to the other side, as it was clear we both would not fit and I didn't want to create a traffic jam) My driver laughed an called it the Batttambang Golden Gate Bridge. Then we headed to a temple with 354 steps up to the top. There were five crumbling temples built before Angor Wat. I liked the feel of the unrestored temples, but didn't explore too much, as my driver warned me that the area around it may still have landmines. Then a basic roadside lunch of tomatoes, chicken, and rice and a coconut water to quench my thirst after all those stairs.
As we through little villages towards another temple that I had to climb up a small mountain to get to, my driver stopped to get me a freshly picked dragonfruit from a roadside fruit stand run by a lovely, old Khmer woman. She and my driver said somme words and he laughed. he explained to me that she said I talked like a foreigner but was dark like a Cambodian. She let me try all the delicious fruit and we went on our way. Made it down the muddy pot-hole filled dirt road to the next temple and started the climb. Halfway up was another temple over run by monkeys. Stopped and had a coke (which I inadvertently shared with a monkey who decided it was his turn and took it right out of my hand). So continued up to the top. Beautiful view off the area and a monk invited me to sit down. We had a nice long talk and it was very peaceful. He told me of being orphaned and becoming a monk. He now runs a school for village children and orphans because "it makes his heart feel good and when you die you can't take things with you, but the good and the bad you have done can live on."
The next day, I got up a little before 5am and found a tuktuk driver to take me to Angkor Thom. Most groups go to Angkor Wat at sunrise, so being the only person climbing around these temples was breathtaking. It is where several shots in Tomb Raider were apparently filmed. Lots of separate structures within the walls, my favorites being one with huge faces made of crumbling rock, another with long mazes of dark hallways and high walls with murals. Spent hours running around alone before the first tour groups showed up.
Decided to walk and just stop whenever I found a temple. Each was a little different, made in different times and by different rulers. After walking several kilometers, some Australian guys that had hired a tuktuk insisted I hitch a ride with them, so went to a place called Ta Prohm. Oh, and that Google maps camera car happened to be over here right now so I may show up walking on multiple dirt roads in Siem Reap. These temples were also neat, as they are being engulfed by huge trees. They are also doing restoration work on some, which was interesting to watch. Took a lunch break for some traditional Khmer coconut curry soup with fish, vegetables, pineapple and a side of rice. It was a delicious roadside lunch! Walked further on the loop of temples and finally felt templed-out for the day, so hired a guy with a motorcycle to take me back to my hotel.
The next morning, I slept in until 8, a luxury for me. Had breakfast at the delicious hotel buffet (they have cheese... and real cheese is almost impossible to get in SE Asia due to refrigeration issues). Decided to run errands and wander around, so walked to town and explored, booked my boat ticket, and found and signed up for the cooking class someone had recommended. Around lunchtime, I decided to try Angkor Wat again. The tuktuk drivers gave me a tip to go during lunch, as many tour groups head back during lunch. Found a motorcycle driver who said he could drive me, wait for as long as I wanted to stay, and drive me back to my hotel for $5. I had a much better time... a fraction of the people and got to explore for hours. Really impressive piece of architecture and very different from the previous temples visited. Took an afternoon swim to cool off during the afternoon rain and tried to go to see a local boxing match at the arena, but they are apparently only on Monday and Wednesdays.
Head up the Nam Ou river through beautiful cloud covered limestone mountains. The weather moves fast, bringing sunshine and then downpour. Arrive in the little village, and instantly liked it. Ask around and am pointed down the main road (there is only one road with a temple at one end and the end of the road within sight). Of course the place is at the far end, and it starts to pour as I carry my backpack through the muddy street. Since there is no road access to this village, there are no tuktuks (the only time I would have really liked one) and I only see one motorbike) but lots of chickens and ducks. An elderly man allows me to duck into his house as it really pours for a few minutes. I see a sign for the ever elusive Suan Phao Guesthouse and Bungalows on the road, but it doesn't look like much and is attached to the pharmacy. Stepping in, a neighbor goes to find the owner. A woman comes from across the way and thankfully, she speaks some English. I explain what happened and return the key and she is very appreciative. She asks I need a room, and I am a little apprehensive, based on the look of the house, but say I will take a look. She takes me a few meters around the side dirt path and it opens to a garden and five bungalows, right on the river. It is perfect. She gives it to me for 50,000 kip (about $7) a night. They recently got 24 hour electricity in the village (used to only run from 9am til 6pm) and it has an indoor shower and toilets (still have to fill with the water bucket to flush but beats going outside with the rest of the town and bathing on the side of the main road in one of the few town faucets). But there is a big bed with mosquito net, the roof doesn't leak, and there is a balcony with a hammock overlooking the garden, river, and mountains (and I LOVE hammocks... I would probably live in one if I could). I spend the rest of the afternoon and evening swaying on my hammock, watching small hummingbirds and butterflies feed on the garden flowers until night brings out the loud sound of cicadas, crickets, frogs, and fun jungle insects, and bats fly by occasionally, with flashes of lightening in distant mountains.
The next three days was mainly spent relaxing in the hammock, reading, watching the villagers and their pigs or other livestock walk around, drinking the Lao tea and coffee and ginger tea that the owner brought me or heading down the street to her sister Ning Ning's restaurant. There can't be more than 100 people in this town and a handful of tourists during rainy season, so if a restaurant isn't open, you just wait or wander down the street looking for the owner. The first night there are a couple other tourists in the bungalows and the second night are a few more that I helped bring when the afternoon boat comes in (you can hear it puttering up the river long before it gets here). The last two nights, it is just me and family members. Turns out the reason the pharmacy is here is because her husband is the village doctor and she used to be a nurse in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. They also have a wonderful 12 year old daughter who knows little English, but visits with me. We occasionally draw pictures to communicate (she is a pretty good artist) and she likes wearing my hoodie sweatshirt a friend gave me for my travels. In the evening, I find a nice little restaurant and bar with excellent Lao whiskey cocktails and a nice owner.
With several days here, I am in no rush to go trekking, so I wait until a sunny day. The red road occasionally goes through cold mountain streams and goes up and down the mist covered mountains, alongside green rice and corn fields. There are little dirt paths that seem hidden until people pop out or disappear down them that lead to small villages. Butterflies are everywhere, and land on me as I explore. Cows, chickens, and pigs run around. Shoeless village women carrying machetes walk beside me for a ways and then smile and disappear into fields. Stop in to a small village for a break and watch the kids play. I am given some type of bamboo drink by a friendly family that is shared amongst several other villagers that stop by. It was refreshing and a little peppery (hopefully the water used to make it was safe, but it would have been rude to turn down their hospitality... stomach of iron, don't let me down!) Hung out for a bit and then continued further on the road. After about 5 hours of the up and down road, the villagers try to get me to pass in this deep river (past their waists) as some strip down to cross it. But I decline, as I figured I would not be able to keep my bag and camera dry and the hill after it appears to be a steep, endless incline. Turn back and head back to town.
Luang Prabang is relaxing and easy, probably due to the number of tourists that flock to this UNESCO World Heritage town. It is set in a valley in the mountains with the Mekong and Nam Khan river running through it. My accomodation, Ho Xiang I Guesthouse turned out to be perfect! Spotlessly clean, located a half a block from the Mekong and a few blocks from sights and the night market, and the family speaks little English but is wonderful (especially the grandmother, who is apparently 88 years old and doesn't speak any English, but has a kind face and always smiles at me and looks after me). Okay, maybe I just had to kill a huge roach or water bug (which would also explain why geckos are 6-7 inches here instead of the normal cute little ones) right after I wrote that, but in this climate right next to the river, it probably can't be helped... and I am sure there is only one, yes?!? Whatever helps me sleep at night, right? Luckily, I didn't see another one.
The first day, I was just going to walk around and get my bearings, but Add, a super nice hotel guest who is from Thailand but does business in Laos and spends a lot of time here, offers to drive me around and show me some sights. He takes me to a waterfall that is heavily touristy (they have elephants to ride and zip lines and such), but still nice. We take a boat to reach it. He speaks and if I don't say anything, I get charged the local price. He treats me to a lovely lunch overlooking the falls and I go explore the area later while he waits below. He also takes me to the Royal Palace Museum, which is full of interesting history about Luang Prabang and then Phousi temple that is 355 steps up to beautiful 360 degree views of the town. We part ways and I wander the street looking for a spot for dinner. I found the guidebook-recommended Luang Prabang sausage and sticky rice and a pineapple shake for dinner at a place along the Mekong and it was really yummy. Chatted with an English teacher who is from Thakhek (but now lives in northern China and sometimes Florida) who was home for his nephew's funeral, who was a famous monk in that town. He was excited that I had just visited his home town.
As with other good service and guesthouses I have found while traveling, I recommend my guesthouse to others I meet to try to help their business. The English teacher, Joe, from last night switches guest houses this morning to mine. We make plans for lunch and I go off to explore the town by foot. Saw the market and more temples and looked at different cooking classes to decide which to sign up for. Met Joe for lunch and we had a lovely traditional Lao meal of minced fish with mint, spices, and peppers, and steamed watercress and garlic which we eat with our hands and sticky rice. After, I went for more walking around town and visit where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan River. Still haven't really gotten my bearings, as most streets don't have names and there are both little and big streets. It is super hot and I may have gotten a bit of heat exhaustion, so had to head back to the guesthouse to load up on water, eat the dragon fruit I picked up at the market, and cool off. Went to enjoy sunset along the Mekong and wander the night market for a small bite. There may have been a few BeerLao consumed later that evening, as Add heads back to Bangkok in the morning.
Today, I woke up at sunrise to watch the monk procession. Much different from Myanmar, as this one is full of tourists and people are taking flash photos and not following any of the other requested rules that are posted everywhere and say makes them lose a bit of their culture and tradition every day. So enjoyed the beautiful morning light over the misty mountains surrounding the Mekong instead, as people shuttled in and out by boat to villages across the river. Then headed to my Lao cooking class at Tamarind Restaurant. First we went to the market. The morning hustle and bustle was mainly over, but I still had that guilt of being like that annoying tourist in Pike Place Market who get in the way of everything. Then we headed to the class kitchen, which was in a beautiful setting outside of town, beside a river and a pond. Learned to cook a spicy roasted eggplant dish to dip sticky rice into, lemongrass stuffed with chicken and then fried, and a buffalo dish with a bit if tripe and bile (sorry cute water buffalos, which I love so much). We finished the meal by making coconut milk and boiling it with sugar and purple rice with fresh mangosteens, pineapple, lychee, and dragon fruit. We each got a recipe book, so I hope to try more at home. Back at the guesthouse, it started to rain and the father asked for help with his computer and setting up Skype (which he tried while sitting right next to me). They invited me to join in the family dinner, but I was still too full from lunch. The rain let up so I went to watch the sunset from my favorite spot on the wall along the Mekong. Afterwards, I watched the men gamble and play a game similar to Bocce ball, but I declined the offer to play (mostly because none of them spoke English to explain the rules).
In the morning, I woke up and chose one of the busiest shops for my morning coffee and noodle soup for breakfast across from the tourist restaurant. People were very friendly. Bing took me out on her motorbike for 8 hours, deftly avoiding chickens, goats, cows, pigs, geese, dogs, and whatever else seems to be walking the road. The big trucks carrying stuff to Vietnam and Thailand are horrible, and even ran us off the road once. We went and saw the hydroelectric dam (where 95 percent goes to Thailand and only 5 percent stays in Laos) and little towns in the mountains. Occasionally you can hear land mines being detonated by a group called MAG that finds them in a nearby province and blows them up (her husband had told me that during the war, the B52 bombers had to drop them undetonated in order to land in the smaller airport, but now farmers pick them up and try to unsuccessfully unarm them for the metal). We went to local food markets where they sell all things from the mountain forest... snail, land crab, bamboo shoots, cricket, river fish, something that looked like chipmunk that was swarming with flies, and some kind of large forest mouse (which were still alive and kind of cute, so maybe they are being sold as pets? Yeah, that's what I will tell myself). I didn't buy anything there, since my doctor made me promise to TRY not to eat anything with too many flies on it.
On the way back, we went to a cave that you boat and then climb through. Since it is rainy season, the light pours through holes in the cave where waterfalls flow in. Very beautiful and very slippery. I was lucky to have Bing there with me, as our tour guide got lost in the cave and she luckily remembered the way out from when she was younger. After getting out, we headed back to town, watching the children swim in rivers and blue green ponds. As we return through the mountains, there were several rainbows.
Walked around the small town (told the total population is around 10,000). Saw the noodle factory and stopped for these fried batter things made with coconut milk, scallions, and a small chickpea bean in the center and topped with chopped peanuts and a tamarind and fish sweet and sour sauce from a roadside stand for four for 10 cents. Met a French guy who was here in 1997 and in 2006. Interesting to hear how it has changed. He also had a local friend with him from Mandalay who had interesting conversation about the country and tips on where to stay and where there was a free shuttle to the airport once I return to Mandalay. We all had a delicious dinner at a roadside stop I had found exploring the town earlier. The local man said I found a good place where the food tasted like his mother's cooking. There are lots of fresh fruits and vegetables grown in this area that are delicious to try. I think my favorite is the dragon fruit that is bright magenta, even on the inside (stains your fingers with the color), that has way more flavor than the typical white ones. Topped off the evening with local rum made in town and fruit juice.
Took a two day trek through the mountains to a little tribal village with two really nice Italian guys and a local guide. The first day was really rainy, so it was slow going as everything was really slippery (passed the Scottish ER nurse coming down who said one tourist had already broken her leg and they had to splint it with bamboo). But the scenery was so green and beautiful and I love seeing the rice fields and water buffalo. We reached our home stay at a small village of about 900 people to a wonderful home cooked lunch. We all just talked into the night, listening to the rain fall.
In the morning, we woke up early and headed next door to the monastery. Instead of other towns I have been in where the monk processions go around town collecting alms, all of the village women come with flowers and food and the monk comes out and they all put their offerings in a basket. Sadly, I didn't get many photos because my camera lens was foggy inside the camera from all the moisture. I was afraid I would have to buy a new one in Bangkok, but my awesome guide had a great idea to put it in a bag of rice. It drew the water out in a half hour as we ate breakfast, and good as new! Later we walked trough the town. We all took photos, mainly of the cute kids who love seeing their picture in the camera.
Hiked back down the mountain to Hsipaw and tried to wash all the red mud off myself and my clothes and said goodbye to my new Italian friends who caught the night bus. Ran into the French guy again and we went back to the same restaurant, and the family was happy to see us. They took us out back to the garden and let me try all different kinds of fruit from their trees. They made us a special plant an root drink that was suppose to be good for high blood pressure and vision. They invited us into their home next to the restaurant and we had a lovely chat, even with the language barrier. The woman was 62 and her husband was in his 70s and was a retired police officer. We headed back to the hotel to bring the woman some French perfume that the French guy brought and ran into the Scottish woman and a woman from Holland and brought them back to the restaurant for the delicious traditional Myanmar fish soup. The family sat with us, gave us treats, and then put the anica face paint on all of us (and ground some as a present for the Scottish girl who wondered where to buy it). We took a picture and said goodbye, and they said we were family and that we must come back to visit.
The next morning, we all were on the same bus to Mandalay. The tour guide from Mandalay booked a shared room for Sarah, the Scottish girl and I at the good hotel, Royal City. He is so kind and is always treating us to things, even though we both would rather pay. Mandalay is really hot! Sarah and I wandered the city looking for yummy street food. We visited the Mahamuni Temple, a gold pounders shop where they make the gold foil that people rub on the temples, a workshop where they weave the silk traditional clothing, and a working Monastery where many monks come to learn to be monks. Sarah laughs when she sees how many do the "What are you?" stare or walk up to me and speak to me in Burmese (a monk at the monastery actually stopped in the middle of his prayer studies to ask where I came from). We ended with a trip to U Thein bridge, an old teak bridge over the river and relaxed, watching the wooden boats pass, kids jumping into the river, and many people walking the bridge as the sun set. We tried more street food, including the fried crab that I had wanted to try.
The slow local boat from Bagan to Mandalay was fun. Downstream, the other direction, it takes about 15 hours. But heading to Mandalay takes 2 days. We left Bagan at 5:30. Watched the sunrise over the Arewaddy. The boat is full of mainly older women, two 16 year olds, and a couple adorable small children, and the cutest pudgy, smiley baby. Everyone takes very good care of me, sharing food and buying me treats. I played with the babies and kids and made paper fans out of the Lonely Planet pages I was finished with to help us all try to cope with the hot sun and humidity. When a vendor didn't give me my change after buying a pineapple, the older women used hand gestures and their very expressive eyes to let me know I needed to go get it back (I had chalked it up to a $4 learning experiences and was going to let it go). It helped knowing they had my back, and the change was given back without question.
We stop at lots of small villages along the river as the boat loads up. Some villages are right on the water and you can see they make ceramics or floating huts and some stops seem like empty fields or jungle-ey forests, but the loud boat horn has people running out of seemingly no where to catch or greet the boat. The bottom of the boat is full of rubbish (empty bottles, plastic, cardboard) being taken out of the villages and the top is where we all hang out. They have the tourists area with plastic chairs.
The boat set off again around 5am. Bought a coffee and watched everyone wake up. Some of the older women decided they were going to do my face like a Myanmar woman. They hand grind this wood to make this yellow stuff to paint their cheeks and forehead in designs with a fine brush. They have me sit down and all take turns making the designs. Much laughter and smiles had by all. My area has turned into the kids play area. I remembered the little bag of super balls and tops that are in my backpack for kids to play with (although in a place full of cheap toys made in China, my toys are not that interesting). I give each kid a toy and we play with them on the boat deck. We only lost one overboard (toy, not child) and the kids climb on me and chatter away at me in Burmese and I just nod my head in agreement. I have to say, Burmese children may just be the cutest kids ever... maybe even cuter than Vietnamese kids :) I have a picture of one if my favorites on my camera that I will download when I get home.
I love Bagan. Staying in Nyaung U, the town nearby. Very relaxing and enjoy watching life. Mix of old and new, as there are farmers with ox and carts carrying loads, old trucks, new cars and motorbikes, older women carrying market purchases on their heads, men in traditional longgyi, and a few teenagers in western jeans. The temples are fantastic and everywhere. They say there are 3000-4000 in this area alone. My horse and cart driver took me to some really great ones (one even with bats hanging from the large Buddha statue). Each temple has a key master to let you in, and you have to wander around looking for him at the smaller ones with no people. The bigger ones have guides, and there are young trainee guides who just graduated and have to practice before becoming a real guide. They showed me around and taught me a lot, an then you give them feedback at the end. One had his teacher with him, who filmed us so I might end up in some video for Burma tourism.
Morning was spent negotiating a ride to Mt. Popa, a temple with monkeys up in the mountains. Found a ride for me and 3 girls from Spain. Spending the day with them made me glad to be traveling alone, as they talked non-stop, didn't pay much attention to their surroundings, and were dressed in short shorts and skimpy tanks which would be like showing up to your friend's church in night club attire. The locals interaction (and cost of things) with us was very different than when I am alone. But the weather was cooler, the view was pretty, and the monkeys were entertaining when not being aggressive and trying to steal bags.
The sunrise was rather overcast, but there was a cool breeze and it was beautiful to see the sun rays cast light over the different temples. Spent most of the day eating fruit ice cream to cool off and jamming out to local Burmese music, and talking to locals at the local tea shop. They taught me several Burmese phrases with lots of laughter at my horrible pronunciation. Saying my goodbyes as tomorrow I have an early departure (5am) on the local slow boat up the Arewaddy River to Mandalay that supposedly takes two days and stops in lots of little villages to pick people up and drop people off. Then trying to head north for trekking through villages outside of Hsipaw (I have been given advice, which I will follow, on where not to go due to safety issues). No Internet for at least a few days.
Spent the next day exploring the city again on foot, visiting the morning food markets and stumbling into the construction/hardware stores area of town (I am not sure how I always end up at the hardware stores, no matter where I go... It is like I am channeling my dad!) It wasn't raining, but super humid and pretty warm. Everyone is so friendly, and after two days, I am running into familiar faces and stopping to chat every few blocks or so. There are the occasional touts selling bus tickets or offering money exchange, but they aren't at all pushy. Lots of children monks who are more persistent about asking for money, but I am getting better at saying no.
Inle Lake was kind of a bust. Super touristy and expensive with people trying to sell you stuff everywhere. Didn't like the town so negotiated a boat deal for the day to look for cheap accommodations on the lake and then show me around. Places were $60-$100 a night, but one of the nice women at the pricy hotels helped me out and called a friend. Ended up staying in a room in a house/restaurant named Ngwe Zin Yaw for $35 right across from Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda in Thale Village. Beautiful spot except there was a loudspeaker for non-stop chanting (well, occasionally they would have to stop and cough). At least it stopped at 6pm, but they wake up even before the chickens and start back up at 4am. So ended up seeing the morning market (which was great to see early, as most locals left when boatloads of tourist showed up several hours later and I just walked a few meters back to my room). Saw the jumping cat monastery but the cats were just sleeping so just wanted to float on the lake and watch the fishermen (who can row the boat using their leg while reeling in the net) but continually got steered towards super touristy stuff like "go see the ring neck tribal women", I had enough. Headed back to town to book a bus anywhere but there.
Got to Bagan yesterday morning and got a guy with a horse cart to take me around and find a place. Expensive here as well, but finally found Eden Guesthouse that had a small room with fan, AC, and private bathroom for $15. There is a nice rooftop deck, sunsets are incredible, and I should do just fine for a few days until I can catch the local slow boat to Mandalay (heard it comes on Wednesday or Thursday). Later this morning, I am heading out with my horse cart guy to see the ruins and temples. Then maybe I will have to learn to ride a bike, since that is the good way to explore (all day I got stopped and asked why I am walking and not biking... One guy kept bugging me about renting a bike and I told him I really liked walking 'til a monk shooed him away for me and smiled).
Burma is beautiful. The people are friendly, welcoming, and helpful. Yangon is an interesting mix of old and new architecture, with people of all different cultures. I have met local people from India, other areas of SE Asia, and Pakistan. It feels very safe. My hotel, Beautyland II, has great staff and it is clean and centrally located near lots of yummy street food stands, Sule Paya, and several markets. I spent the day wandering the city streets and markets and chatting with the money changers and vendors, taking in all the sights and sounds (and food) that I possibly can. My jet lag isn't too bad, but could just be travel excitement.
In the afternoon, I headed over to see the amazing Shwedagon Pagoda. I have always been in awe at pictures of this Pagoda and it is even more impressive in person. It actually took my breath away when I first walked in from the entrance. The Pagoda is huge and gilded in gold with Buddhas of all shapes and sizes. It made for a very relaxing afternoon, watching monks of all ages in prayer and listening to all of the chimes and bells. One man said to me "You must like it here because you are smiling so big!" He was right. And not shockingly, I get the "where are you from?" question here even more than at home. And I seem to confuse people with how I am Vietnamese and American.
Yangon has been fun, but after seeing Shwedagon, I am ready to move on. I am not a big fan of cities when traveling, Yangon is expensive, and it is pouring buckets (people are very concerned that I don't use an umbrella and some have even offered to walk with me so I can stay under theirs). Anyhoo, after talking with others, I have changed up my itinerary a bit. I am on an overnight bus tomorrow to Inle Lake. I will stay around there for a few days and then try to bus to Bagan to see the temples and then boat to Mandalay, if possible. Not sure how the Internet will be outside of the city, so don't worry if I don't check in for a little bit.