Right on the beach with a perfect view, the cabana was a perfect combo of rustic and nice. Brand new, comfy hammock on my deck, big bed with a mosquito net, mostly enclosed with openings for air in the large bathroom (no hot water) and huge doors in the front to open to the sea breeze. Relaxed for the remainder of the afternoon in my hammock and maybe bought homemade tamales and salsa from a plastic bag when a woman came up to my deck trying to sell them. Stomach of iron, don't fail me now!! 
They were pretty good. Tired after all the travel and trying to get off night shift, I headed across the street for dinner. The rotisserie chicken restaurant was recommended by my hotel owner and had choices of honey, pineapple, or mango that day. The mango chicken was super succulent with a pureed mango and spice mixture rubbed between the chicken and skin and then spit roasted to perfection. Met some ex-pats there and a woman from NY who lives here and runs her own jewelry business may be heading to Taxco and overnighting in Oaxaca City the same day I am heading there. She says she can give me a ride if it works out, which would be awesome. There is talk of air mattress surfing in the morning, which I agreed to maybe participate in and/or go laugh at. Early night, as I am exhausted.My hotel only takes cash, as do most places around town. The airport didn't let me take out much, so I need more pesos.
So the next morning, I wake up early and head to the next town of Mazunte to find the ATM. Saw huge birds in the trees that a few of us were trying to get a better look at. One guy asked if they thought it was a parrot (clearly not, as they were brown) and I said "no, but THAT is", pointing to a local on a motorbike driving past with a parrot on his head. So random. 
Continuing my quest, the only ATMs I could find were broken, but lots of cute restaurants in this town and stopped for coffee and breakfast of green chicken enchiladas with an egg and beans. This town appears to be full of yoga fanatics and hippies. Spoke with a nice, retired French man waiting for his daughter to arrive. Walked back to San Agustinillo. Everyone is so friendly and says hello or good morning. Laid in my hammock, reading, napping, and watching the surfers from my deck. 
Turns out, I can buy anything from my hammock! Tamales, fish and potatoes, jewelry, brownies and a shot of mezcal, or even another hammock! Watched the local kids fly kites and body board at sunset. At night, I head back to Mazunte for fish dinner. Only thing to note for others making the trip is that there is a stretch of the road with no street lights, so bring a headlamp or phone flashlight.
Such good sleeps here! The crashing waves, cool ocean breeze and so many stars at night are perfect for snoozing away. Woke up and heading back to Mazunte for attempt number two of obtaining cash. Ran in to the French man again on the street, whose daughter still hadn't arrived. We had coffee and breakfast at the same spot. Tried to switch it up and had entomadas de queso. We made a plan to meet up the next morning to check out Centro Mexicano del la Tortuga, the Turtle Conservation Museum featuring land and sea turtles, which had been closed since I arrived. Not five minutes after leaving breakfast, a guy walked past me selling empanadas and fresh pastries. 
I picked a mango jam with baked pineapple chunk pastry, which was amazingly delicious. Found the working ATM (I surely wouldn't have found it without the help of someone at the hotel, as it is tucked in to the side of a flip flop and beachware store with little signage). Then headed back to San Agustinillo. I had gotten sunburned the previous day, so tried to mostly stay out of the sun and read my book on butterflies, of which I have seen many here. There was a whale spotting way off shore, which we could just barely see from the beach. Chatted with others at my hotel and got some tips on restaurants in Oaxaca.The next morning I got up and walked the beach at sunrise. Met up with the French man for breakfast and then we headed to the Turtle Museum.
Great set up and loved seeing the little sea turtle swimming about and a big sea turtle that was likely about to outgrow its home and be released into the sea. We parted ways and I headed back to my hotel. By this point, I feel like I recognize lots of people along the way. Stop in to chat with the fisherman, who brought in about 70 shark today and are gutting them along the beach. Apparently, that is about all they can catch to survive around this time, and at least they are using the whole shark and not just cutting off the fin and letting the rest go to waste. They offered to take me out in the afternoon for about $10, but the seas got really rough and opted for a day of swimming at the next beach over, protected by some big rocks. The undertow is pretty strong here, so I stay close to shore. More eating random things brought by vendors along the beach and an afternoon homemade double scoop of tiramisu and plantain (like less sweet banana) ice cream from the small spot across from my hotel. 
Had an amazing last dinner of BBQ fish at this spot two doors down from my hotel. Beautiful candle lit tables overlooking the beach owned by this older gentleman that I have seen hard at work all day, the last few days. He brings out a charcoal grill and makes a mean BBQ fish (which was maybe shark steak, as that is all they caught that day and was similar in texture to the other time I had BBQ shark). Finalize plans to head to Oaxaca City the next morning with the woman I met the first night.Get picked up at my hotel by the woman I met and we pick another friend of hers up in Zipolite. So nice to be in a nice car instead of the initial plan of catching a colectivo and then what I heard was nicknamed the "Vomit Comet", a van that packs people in and drives fast through the windy mountain roads.
It is a beautiful drive with cool, fresh smelling air. Sometimes almost jungle looking landscape and then up the mountains filled with pine trees with air plants. Stopped in San Mateo, a little town atop of the hill for a yummy chorizo and cheese torta and delicious coffee (there are many coffee fincas along the road). Super cheap (lunch was a little over $2) and if I were to do it again, I would stay in this town for a night or two as the cabins have gorgeous views and fireplaces. As we get closer to Oaxaca City, the landscape becomes more like a desert. There are these beautiful purple blossoming trees which break up the desert landscape. We make good time, but hit Oaxaca city traffic, a bit of a jar after little beach town life. There are people selling boxing gloves and a mini punching bag, walking up and down stopped traffic. Maybe in case you experience road rage? Ha! Get dropped off at my hotel, Parador Del Dominico, which is centrally located and spacious. We make plans to meet up at the rooftop deck of Cafe Praga overlooking the church later that night for drinks. 
I headed out walking to explore and get my bearings and almost instantly love this city. Art everywhere, beautiful architecture, colorful buildings, and amazing food choices. Make it to Cafe Praga, in the pedestrian only area for my first mezcal drink with honey and hibiscus. Yummy but super strong. We have dinner at an amazing restaurant called La Biznaga, where I ordered chicken wrapped around plantains in a guava mole sauce. Oh boy, am I in trouble with all this amazing food.Now trying to decided whether to navigate the colectivos to a nearby town for their weekly market or explore the city more. So much to do, so little time! One thing I know for sure is that it will include food :)
Love,
Betsy
