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Monday, April 28, 2014

Email to Friends: Jerusalem

Hiya!

My iPod Touch went on the fritz right as my trip ended. But I think I left off once I hit Jerusalem. Wednesday, I walked toward the Old City and headed to Zion's Gate. Saw where the Last Supper took place and King David's tomb and then hung out for a bit chatting with a man selling snacks who gave me free ice cream. I headed down to see the cemetery where Oskar Schindler was buried and was the only one there. Schindler's headstone was surprisingly plain, but covered in rocks as is tradition to show respect for the person buried there. I sat with my thoughts and added a special rock I had been carrying to take home to the pile. Then I headed down the winding alleyways of the Old City through the Jewish, Armenian, and Muslim Quarters. It was interesting to see the similarities, but also the distinct differences within such a relatively small area. I basically got lost within the walls until I finally popped out by the Damascus Gate.

Once I got my bearings, I headed to Lions Gate to walk around near the base of the Mount of Olives to see Al-Aqsa Mosque, and then into Dung Gate to see the Western Wall and Dome of the Rock. The Dome of the Rock had been shut down due to protests, but I did visit the Wailing Wall. It is split into a men's and women's side. I felt kind of strange, as I knew it was very powerful for everyone around me, but I didn't fully understand the religious significance. I did enjoy the prayers written on pieces of paper and shoved into every crack or crevice on the Wall that was within reach. It was kind of nice to think of the Wall holding so many people's hopes, dreams, and wishes. I may have made some of my own wishes, but only in my head.

That evening I felt pretty terrible. I had begun to get a severe headache and feel light headed and dizzy late in the afternoon, but couldn't find many spots out of the extremely hot sun to sit down and rest. I felt like I had to just kept pushing myself to walk further, as there was so much to see. But by the time I got back to the apartment, I was considering heading to a hospital, as I was afraid I was going to pass out again like I did right before I left on the trip. I really wanted to socialize with my hosts, but found myself slipping in and out of sleep.

Luckily, I felt better the next day after lots of fluid and rest. I decided to take it relatively easy that day. Alon and I headed to Mahane Yehuda Market for some lunch and groceries. He went back and I stayed to wander and pick up stuff to make something for a group dinner, as Alon had already gotten salmon to cook. The market got crazy in the afternoon as Shabbat started and vendors would all shutter up up until Sunday. Bought groceries to make a pasta salad for dinner as a small gesture of appreciation to my hosts (they were okay with cooking on Shabbat). On my way home, I wandered the Nahalat Shiv'a neighborhood and sat in the park. There are lots of families gathered at the park, and I realize how used to seeing people openly carrying guns I have become. You see them on buses, on people in swimsuits at the beach, and with families at the park. A man that lived nearby saw me resting and enjoying the park and came out of his house to give me flowers. He didn't say anything... just smiled, nodded his head and scurried away. Very sweet!

I walked back to the apartment and started cooking. I realized I forgot to buy cream, and at that point, everything in the Jewish areas was closed for Shabbat. Luckily, I was able to just walk a bit further to the Old City to the Christian Quarter to buy cream (well, since everything was labeled in Hebrew, I picked up something that appeared to be cooking cream, and luckily it was). As per usual with my keen sense of direction, I got lost in the alleyways of the Old City, stopping to sit and chat with merchants and people along the way. It is interesting to hear different people's take on some of the religious and political issues of Israel, as it is really varied. I tried very hard to just keep an open mind, not offer an opinion, and be appreciative of everyone's viewpoints. Finally I headed back to the apartment at sundown, weaving between the many Jewish families all dressed up and heading to Shabbat celebrations. Alon, Steve and I proceeded to make dinner. It was quite a feast! I made creamy lemon garlic pasta with tomatoes, Alon made a delicious mustard salmon (really good for his first attempt at making salmon), and Steve made rice and a chocolate tahini dessert. My hosts head off to a party, but I had a big day ahead of me, so I went to get some sleep.

I woke up early the next morning to make the trek up the Mount of Olives. Everyone told me to take a taxi, but it looked walkable. The walk to the top is up a steep hill cemetery that is supposedly over 3,000 years old and is full of tombstones (some say over 150,000). It actually was a long way to the top, not helped by the fact that I was weaving in and out, looking at all the different graves. Finally at the top, I was approached by several people saying they would "walk me around." I had heard it was kind of a seedy area and there was a strange vibe, so I declined and lost them. I found a bunch of kids with a very kind woman who was teaching them photography. She told me to just blend in with the group, and got me into one of the small church grounds that was closed to the public. I walked around with them as the kids watched what I tried to take pictures of and mimicked me. Then we all shared our pictures. Super cute! We all said goodbye after a while as they headed back to school

I wandered into something called the Mosque of the Ascension. There were some guys outside who explained the significance and waived the admission fee and gave me a tour. There is an indented rock in the middle of the floor, which they explain is considered the last footprint of Jesus before he ascended to heaven. I actually had no idea that Jesus was both part of the Muslim and Christian. I headed over and had a coffee at Seven Arches, enjoying the lookout view over Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock. A guide that drove a tour bus offered me a ride back down the hill, but I decided I still had enough energy and could explore more by walking down. On the way, I stopped by the Dominus Flevit church that had beautiful and quiet gardens and view of the Dome of the Rock from the altar. A family sang hymns in the church and did not seemed bothered while I sat and enjoyed it. I also checked out the Garden of Gethsemane with worlds oldest olive trees (over 2000 years old). At the base of the hill, the Church of All Nations had some of my favorite architecture inside with lots of Corinthian columns and blue ceilings with tree trunks and stars. I wandered back through the Old Quarter and was invited in to the home of an odd Jewish guy. We sat and chatted over coffee and then I went to find some street food and picked up a yummy pizza of sorts that had za'atar spread on flatbread. Exhausted, I headed back to my hosts' apartment, chatted with them for a bit, and crashed out.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Email to Friends: Tel Aviv

Shalom from Israel!

Ah, the last leg of my trip. I fell behind in my updates and am just getting caught up. My first day in Israel consisted of hanging out with the family I am staying with as the mom made homemade matzo ball soup to take to her brother's house. Danielle and her boyfriend drop me off in Tel Aviv. It is an amazingly nice city. It is still a holiday (Passover/Easter) so a lot of stuff in the city is closed and it is pretty quiet. But that makes it far easier to navigate and get my bearings. It is a very clean, walkable city with gardens and parks, childrens play areas, dog parks, and public beaches. People of the neighborhoods walk through little streets lined with colorful, nice-smelling flowers as they walk their dogs or stop at one of the many outside cafes. I wander to the promenade next to the beach along the Mediterranean sea and walk the length of Tel Aviv into Jaffa, since it is Arabic area (stores are open as it is not their holiday). I enjoy the views and flowers, watching the families BBQ along the beach and kids flying kites on the grassy hills. I wander around and find a parade and stop to watch. I then head down to the busy port area and grab some of the delicious hummus I have heard so much about. It is creamy and super good. Head back into town and wander around more, finally stopping to enjoy the sunset over the beach as it casts pretty light on the newer, modern downtown towers.

I was going to go meet Danielle at her work but get a bit tired. People help me find the bus stop to get back to the family's home in Herzliya. Everything is written in both Hebrew and Arabic, so there is little English to go off of, making catching buses and shared taxis difficult. But the family has written out directions for me in English with a Hebrew translation that I can hand people (sort of like a sad puppy "If lost please return to..." sign). It works pretty well, even with the confusing holiday bus schedule. There is a little strangeness here in being Asian. A friend who had lived here warned me about it in advance, but apparently there are a lot of Filipino and Thai people here as illegal immigrants to do housecleaning and such. They are not always treated very well and some people don't approve. So I sometimes get strange or dirty looks. When I was wandering around their super nice neighborhood (some of he houses are mansions), I ask a man for directions and he asks if I am looking for a job as he is "looking." Uhh... No thanks?!?

The next day, Danielle's mom helps me do a load of laundry so I have cleanish clothes for the plane next week. I head to the beach near their house which is nice and quiet. I walk the beach, checking out a funky beach house. The sand is soft, and it could be paradise except for the occasional military planes buzzing by. I head back to the house as Danielle offers me a ride to the city as she has to work. She feeds me at the restaurant she works at and it is delicious! Not sure of the spelling as things are spelled all different ways here when done phonetically from Hebrew (street signs sometimes have different spellings for the same place so you have to read it aloud in your head), but it is a place called Miznon on King George Street and Ibn Gvirol 21. It is pita sandwiches using all super fresh ingredients (some grow on the roof) such herbs, veggies and meat. There is a snack tray with tahini and fresh tomato sauce made from scratch that tastes like sunshine. She also give me an ice cream treat in a pita with some sweet tree sap/syrup and roasted bananas. Apparently the chef has several restaurants, some really fancy and upscale and they will be opening one in French and maybe New York. All full, I go off to wander the streets and marketplace. Some man sees me from his apartment balcony on the beach and has the phone number of the parking attendant of the lot I am passing. The parking attendant motions me over and hands me the phone, saying "it's for you." Strange, but he really wants to buy me a drink (I choose coffee as I am unsure if he is creepy or not). He turned out okay, but just wants to buy me stuff and I am not interested. So I wander off some more and head to a lively place with beer, the soccer match, and live music upstairs. People seem to stay up til all hours here and people are still walking, jogging, and roller blading at 11pm. I meet Danielle after her shift and she gives me a ride back to the house.

Today, Danielle and her sister have off in the morning. So we all head to Cesaria, some ruins along the beach. Enjoy the views and flowers and then they take me to a local beach spot for shakshouka, the traditional Israeli breakfast of eggs and tomatoes with some hummus and pita. We talk about their military service and religion and just enjoy each others company. I plan to head to Jerusalem in the afternoon and while on the beach, Danielle puts out a Facebook message and gets a place for me to stay with a friend. They help give me directions for the bus and write out everything for me to show people if I get lost. I made it to Jerusalem (with a bit of help from more strangers) and the friend, Alon, left me his key in the mailbox as he is away tonight. It is a quiet neighborhood but centrally located near really nice hotels, an Art House, and a few blocks from Ben Yehuda Street with restaurants and bars. I enter an empty house (there are 2 other roommates, but no one is home), drop my stuff and head for a walk to the Old City. Pass the US Consulate (it is rather nice to see our flag after all this traveling) and catch the last of the sunset in the Old City. Lots of tourists and people with America accents that have moved here. Head back to Ben Yehuda Street for dinner and then back to the house where I meet Alon's roommate, who seems nice. He is a physics student at the university here and is from a kibbutz up north. Now, off to bed as I am sure there will be lots of walking through Jerusalem tomorrow!

Love,
Betsy

Monday, April 21, 2014

Email to Friends: Last Days in Aqaba, Jordan and into Israel‏

Hiya!

My stay in Aqaba was a wonderful way to wrap up Jordan. I can't recommend the Red Sea Dive Center enough. I checked out other dive shops and they either had dive guides that were more interested in a date or were just trying to get the most people on the dives possible, even if they weren't certified. The guys that manage the hotel are also dive guides, but didn't use high pressure sales. They are super nice and very knowledgable (I heard one worked at the marine preservation center in town). The hotel is small with only 13 rooms but has a nice pool and restaurant. All the guests staying there are all friendly and interesting... it isn't the typical dive hotel where people only talking about diving 24/7 (which gets old for me after a day or so). My first night on the roof was under a bright moon with lots of stars and a breeze coming off the Red Sea. Other guests came up to visit me on the roof since it was such a nice night. But the breeze died down during the night and I ended up with quite a few mosquito bites.

The second next day I went on two dives. We did Shipwreck and the Japanese Gardens. The sites were very busy, as it is a holiday weekend, so I think much of the marine life was scared away. But they were good shallow dives (I realized I haven't done shore dives since I was certified 24 years ago) and the coral looked to be in pretty good shape and I just played around with my GoPro. No nudibranch or seahorse sightings, which made me kind of sad. But in looking at some of my GoPro pictures, I realized that a) I am terrible at diving AND taking pictures at the same time b) I need filters for color correction on deep shots such as wreck dives and c) I'm pretty sure I got photobombed by fish several times... Ha!

That night, the Israeli couple let me know they were heading back to Tel Aviv the next day and there was room in their car, if I wanted a ride. As much as I was enjoying Aqaba, I couldn't pass up the ride, as it would be much easier to go with them instead of catching a taxi to the border, trying to navigate the customs and crossing on my own, another taxi to Eliat in Israel and then a 5 hour shuttle to Tel Aviv. Got an offer from a couple from Copenhagen to go hang out in their 3 bedroom suite at the Movenpick in the city center and have drinks with some prince from Saudi Arabia, and they laughed when I turned them down because I wanted my last night in Jordan to be spent sleeping outside under the stars (it just seemed fitting and I had a plan on how to rig my mosquito net I forgot I had brought and a couple of plastic chairs). A woman from the States who has been living in Amman for 15 years (the first person from the States that I think I have run into on this whole trip) and I go to a relaxed dinner in town at Ali Babba instead.

The next day, I woke up to a few raindrops and quickly packed my bag and dragged the mattress and pillow back downstairs to keep everything dry. Not much rain followed, but a huge wind storm blows through so we wait it out. Passed the time away chatting with everyone and saying my goodbyes, and joined Danielle, her boyfriend, and her mom to cross the border into Israel and up to Tel Aviv. It went pretty smoothly, even with the Israeli border guards pulling me out of the car separately to ask me a bunch if questions. At some point they started asking me questions about why I went to Egypt and didn't I know about the problems they are having and why would I go there since it is not safe... I had to bite my tongue not to sarcastically ask if they were my mother. Then questions about if I planned to try to enter the West Bank (luckily they didn't check my iPod as I had just been googling it and forgot to clear my browser) and how I had money to travel if I just graduated from nursing school. Finally, they let us go and we left for Tel Aviv. We arrive late and the super nice family invited me to stay at their house in a suburb near Tel Aviv called Hertzalia. Super helpful since everything is booked with Passover and Easter and Tel Aviv is really expensive.

Jordan had some difficulties, but every bad was outweighed by something or someone wonderful. It is not really a place for backpackers as there are few things that are cheap. When I first started traveling, this would have been even more difficult. I found a comfort and safety in knowing that I do have a larger budget to spend if things got too rough. Some if them men here seem far more aggressive than I found in Egypt. But I am glad I stuck with it, because there are some beautiful places and I met some wonderful new friends along the way.

Now that I am in Israel, I have my phone back on to text for free in case anyone needs to reach me. Will probably have more Internet connection when I likely head to Jerusalem tomorrow. It maybe Haifa? Or the family said something about a kibbutz up north this weekend? I dunno... The common answer of "no plans" prevails.

My trip photos from Jordan are up or you can view them as a slideshow.

Love,
Betsy

Friday, April 18, 2014

Email to Friends: Petra, Cave Camping, and more Desert Hiking‏

Hi All,

After arriving in Wadi Musa, I headed to the hotels near the entrance gate to Petra instead of staying in the town. It is not a far distance, but it was worth the extra 10JD to be close to the park. I walked around town the first afternoon but was hassled by many guys wanting to know if I am married or have a boyfriend and where I am staying and what room. They are following me around and it is annoying. But my hotel is nice and I find a few nice (but expensive) restaurants nearby.

The next morning, I wake up to buy a 2 day pass and be one of the first people through the gate at 6am. It is very quiet as I walk through the Siq (a narrow canyon cut between the tall rocks). You turn a narrow corner and can see the great Treasury. Absolutely amazing. I sit and have a coffee while watching the Bedouins bring in their camels and donkeys and set up shop as the sun rises and changes the colors of the red rocks and Treasury. Head through the valleys and hike up to a high viewpoint overlooking the Treasury to watch the throngs of tourists enter by the bus load. Already a few hours ahead of them, I get to explore on my own. Goats, camels (3 baby ones!), and mules graze along the way as I hike to see the Theater and some tombs and marvel at the various structures and caves cut into the rocks.Late in the afternoon, I meet a Bedouin and his horse, Suzanna, and he invites me to join him for tea and we gather a few sticks to make a small fire to boil water. It is starting to get very crowded and he shows me a little used path away from all the tourists that runs from the Royal Tombs to Wadi Muthlim. It involves climbing over and under boulders in a sometimes very narrow valley to get back to the park entrance. After 8 hours of hiking and exploring, I head back to the hotel and grab some mansef for a late lunch/early dinner.

Day 2, I am in the park at 6am again. I wander around, explore an old river bed, and head up the over 800 steps to the Monastery, which rivals the Treasury and is even bigger. hang out there for a bit and head back to the hotel to check out as they are all booked tonight. It is a different place when it is full of tourists and the shops are set up for business. I grab a quick lunch and head back in. I head to the High Place of Sacrifice to watch the sunset, perched on the edge of a tall cliff. It is beautiful and I watch the sun set at the same time the full moon rises up over the town of Wadi Musa. I chat with some Bedouins and we hang out and drink tea in the old Theatre. I was going to walk out and get a 12 JD ticket to Petra by Night where the Siq is lit up at night with luminarias, and everyone walks to the Treasury for Bedouin music and tea, but ran out of time and am still in the park. The Bedouins sneak me in, saving me some money and the walk to the entrance and back. It was really beautiful under the full moon. Walk back to the hotel to supposedly meet someone that was to take me to my couchsurfing host. Wait until midnight and no one comes, so thankfully the night manager lets me sleep in a spare, unused room since all the hotels are full the next few nights.

Still hadn't heard from my couchsurfing host, Gassab, by the next morning so decide to head to Aqaba. More getting hassled in Wadi Musa by the men in town and trying to get swindled by a taxi driver who I finally lose my temper with. But the taxi driver must feel bad after I unleash on him and finally reaches Gassab by phone. I head to Gassab's family's house in the Bedouin village. Hang out there, meeting the family and helping the mom cook mansef for a tour group coming through. Then we pack the trucks and head for the sleeping cave inside Petra (they sneak me in since my two day pass is already used). There is a group of Austrians he is doing a 10 day hike with, and I can go for free as a volunteer if I help out doing dishes and such. I meet the group and then head off by myself to climb up some rocks to watch the sun set behind the mountains.

That night, I get to sleep in a cave inside of Petra with delicious food and wonderful company. Turns out I really like sleeping in caves! It is warm and super safe as all of the people are sweet and kind (and we even have our own police escort). I learn a little about the Bedouin culture. All that I have met are kind, respectful, and a very tight knit community. Many of the boys have dreadlocks and wear eyeliner and look like Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean.

The next day, we wake up and have breakfast. One of the Austrians brought an accordion and he plays music while other sing and dance. We clean up and hike into Petra. I see many of the same sites, but coming from a different direction and a different time of day is still interesting, as the rocks look different from different angles and light. I am glad I spent two days on my own exploring Petra, as they really didn't get to see many places and there is little time to stop and enjoy things as they are so focused on hiking. We make a longer hike out past the Treasury with spectacular rocky canyons that I haven't yet seen. That night, Rosalie (another couch surfer from Switzerland) and I sleep back at Gassab's family's home in the Bedouin Village.

The next day, Rosalie and I help out the guys washing dishes and loading supplies. We head off through the desert and meet the group in a valley in the mountains of Wadi Araba for a night of camping under the almost full moon and lots of stars. The Austrians share some of their special liquor from their home that is made from some kind of rare pine tree found only in high places in a certain area. While I am having fun with the group, I am bit homesick and certain elements of the Middle Eastern culture are wearing on me. I am craving quiet time to myself (having mainly heard German or Arabic which is a language that sound like loud arguing to me, even when it is a regular conversation to me) and the ocean.

This morning, I wake up to goats heading off to the mountains. I say goodbye to the group after breakfast as they head off to Wadi Rum. The guys drop me off at the turnoff for Wadi Rum so I can hitchhike the rest of the way to Aqaba. Luckily, a nice big rig commercial container truck driver who is heading to Aqaba to get fish to bring to Amman stops and gives me a ride most of the way. I get out where we heads to the port and hitch the rest of the way with a guy heading toward the city center. Someone points me towards the Red Sea Dive Center in the city center that was recommended to me by a couple in Amman. Turns out the hot is in South Beach about 10 km from the city center and they are fully booked (as is just about everywhere in Aqaba as it is apparently Easter weekend). But they offer to pull a mattress onto the roof and let me sleep there with buffet breakfast and full use of their pool, wifi and everything for 10 JD until or if a room becomes available before I head across the border into Eliat, Israel in a couple of days.

And now, time for a quick shower (my first real shower in I don't even remember how many days) and a dip in the pool!!

Miss you all very much and ready to come home in 12 days for some hugs.

Love,
Betsy

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Email to Friends: North Jordan‏

My decision to wake up early and get out of Amman was a good one. Checked out of the Boutique Hotel and took a taxi to the north bus station. Jumped on a minibus to Jerash. Started chatting with a nice guy on the bus who grew up near Jerash about politics, movies, food and travel. He shows me and two travelers from Vancouver where to get off the bus. We walk them into the ruins and he takes me to the nearby hotel I wanted to stay at and drop off my big backpack. Even though the hotel is empty, a single room with shared bath is $60. There is one other hotel listed in town so we set out to see if it is cheaper. When outside, Mussab offers to take me to his parents' house and let me stay there. I agree to go visit and check that it is okay with his parents.

We head about 8km into the mountains behind Jerash to his town. We pass lots of olive trees as we was up the mountain. We arrive at his house in a complex above the butcher and produce store with his mom, dad, and younger brother. His two older brothers live with their wives in the two other apartments in the complex. As soon as we walk in the door, his parents greet me warmly. They are so sweet, showing me to my room and continually bringing me hot tea, Arabic coffee and Pepsi. His dad has a stern face, but it softens when he looks at his wife or sons. One of his older brothers who is a math teacher drops by before heading upstairs, with "It's a Boy" gifts from the newborn he and his wife had three days before. I watch his mom make mansef for me, as Mussab had told me earlier I can't say I have been to Jordan unless I have tried it. His little brother gets home, and he is a real character. He immediately pulls up a chair next to me for a picture to post on Facebook and the mom calls me his sister, telling him to leave me alone and go study while giving us all the "get out of my kitchen" look I have been known to give many who venture in my kitchen. The other older brother who is a physics teacher finishing grad school stops in, and we all sit on the floor and eat the delicious meal. The mom insisting I eat more and more and cutting up more chicken for me, even when I am full, which makes us all laugh. We all sit and talk a bit more about his father's experience living in Tennessee for a few years working at a Burger King and different world views and events. The mom jokes if I am interested in Mussab and we all laugh that moms everywhere are the same. She is the only one that doesn't speak any English, but her facial expressions and gestures somehow make it so I can often understand her. She is really wonderful and seeing the love and closeness in this family is really refreshing. We "kids" go take in the views on the roof and they point to the complex across the street where people are always coming and going, explaining that it is one of the many Syrian refugee houses that 5-6 families live in, with whole families in just one room. There is talk that there will be up to 2 million Syrian refugees in the future (Jordan's population is only 6 million). Afterwards, we take an afternoon nap.

After dark, we take the family car for a drive to the top of the mountains for a nice view if the twinkling lights of Jerash and beyond below. The oldest brother invites us all for coffee so we go upstairs to his house, and I get to meet his wife and hold his adorable sleeping 3 day old son. The other brother's friend invites us all to a party to watch the Barcelona Madrid football match, but the mom apparently nixes that idea, saying I should stay there. I think she likes the company of another female in her house full of boys (the two daughters live outside the home). Got to do what mom says, so instead we watch the game at the other brother's house. The mom is still trying to feed me, bringing an apple and orange and then a whole dinner tray of bread, spicy olives, something that tastes like marinated heart of palm, meat with pistachios, tuna, and cheese. She is on to me when I try to just hold onto a bit of leftover bread to keep her from stuffing more in my hand... ha! After the game, we head back upstairs to the parents' house and I say my goodbye to Mussab, as he will head back to work in the early morning. The dad sleeps in the living room and the mom and I watch Arabic romance soap operas until we fall asleep in their room.

The next morning, I am sad to say goodbye. There is no way I can thank them enough for their hospitality. We will all keep in touch with Facebook and the mom tells me that I am to come straight to their house the next time I come to Jordan. I really hope to see them again some day. They help me get a taxi back to Jerash and I am off again. I check out the Roman ruins in Jerash. The visitor center is nice enough to hold my big backpack so I am free to clamor up and down the stones and run around the colosseum. It is fun, as they are different from all the Egyptian ruins I visited and there are huge school groups of children on field trips there, all that swarm me for pictures with them. There are red, yellow, white, and blue wildflowers peeking up next to the pillars and the school boys keep picking them and handing them to me as the scream "Hello!","Picture?", or "Welcome to Jordan."

After a few hours I decide to move on. I hadn't decided whether to go back to Amman or head farther north. I decided I needed to see more of the north to get a fuller picture of this country before heading south to Petra. So I walk to the bus station and head to Irbid. I get off at a super busy, chaotic bus station and am lost instantly amongst the many buses going to I don't know where since I can't read a lick of Arabic. A nice man that speaks decent English sees my confusion and tells me I have to head to another terminal to get to Umm Qais. The line for the shared buses to the terminal is super long, but he knows one of the drivers and gets me on, saving me a taxi ride. The driver also helps me get on the shuttle to Umm Qais. I get there late in the afternoon and decide to do the ruins the next day. This is a really small, sleepy town (population of about 7,000) so I only have one hotel choice. But it is not too bad, by my pretty low traveling standards. No room key, but it locks when I am inside and if someone wants to steal my dirty laundry while I gone, so be it (and I am the only guest... all the neighbors had to run around looking for someone to check me in when I got here). I can always use my pac-safe if need be. Went to one of the only restaurants in town, but right as I got there, 20 hungry 15 year olds came in for their after school snack. They all chat with me and practice their English as their orders get made (in fact, their English teacher also stops by) and several want to add me on Facebook. I finally get my kebob sandwich that is wrapped like a Gorditos burrito with french fries and go take a shower in the trickle of a shower (at least it has hot water... sort of). A guy that turned out to be the brother of the hotel owner is an off-duty Tourism Police and was hanging out downstairs and took me to the rooftop to see the sunset and points out Syria and Damascus in the distance. The mountains up here are the most green I have seen so far on the trip. The night is spent with Arabic coffee and watching the kids play in the street near the makeshift fresh made and fried to order falafel stand outside the hotel. Many of the kids and people here are really beautiful. Some have olive skin with striking hazel green eyes. They are all really friendly.

In the morning, I head to Umm Qais ruins. There are Roman ruins and an abandoned Ottoman village. It is really nice to hike around amongst the wildflowers and olive trees. In the museum, I hire a guide to take me by car to see a little around the town. He takes me through some of the farms (olives, wheat, and onions) and out to a spectacular vantage point where lots of families picnic. I can see the Mt Nebo and Nazarath, the Sea of Galilee, Golan Heights, and the Yarmouk and Jordan Rivers. He points out Point Zero a few kilometers below us where Syria, Israel, and Jordan meet. It is also interesting to see the Rift Valley up here, as it is very different than seeing it in Africa. With his binoculars, we can also see traces of snow on mountaintops of Lebanon. On the way back, we pass a cave that Jesus was rumored to have slept in when he lived in the area. Back to the ruins museum, we have tea with fresh lemon leaves and Arabic coffee. He invites me to his farmhouse for dinner this evening. I was going to head to Amman to overnight before catching the bus to Petra, but I really am enjoying the peace and quiet and fresh air up here, so I decide to stay. While he finishes work, I go explore the ruins more, chat with several of the many families having a picnic (the typical Friday thing to do, apparently), and follow around some sheep and goats while the sheep herder sleeps under the shade of an olive tree.

Head back to the hotel and let a group of sweet girls practice their endless questions. Ahmed comes to pick me up and shows me a spot with a sweeping view of the valleys an a reservoir. We watch the sunset over the green onion fields and have a delicious picnic dinner of salad, stuffed grape leaves, chicken, turnover pastries stuffed with meat and a beer (he is actually Christian so has a drink now and again) on the rooftop of his modest farmhouse. I had every intention of going to bed early but end up staying up to chat with the owner and his brothers over coffee (they drink it late and I feel like it is kind of rude to turn it down). I feel so bad for him because a group of 20 Palestinians students made a reservation and they made a huge dinner for them only to have them come in, look at the hotel and cancel. He is far more calm and sweet about it than I would ever be. The owner's wife offers me dinner since there is all this food now, but I am too full.

Today was a long travel day. Minibus from Umm Qais to Irbid, another from the north bus station to south station, bus to Amman, shared taxi from north to south bus station in Amman, and then another minibus to Petra. People are really helpful getting me on the right buses and not overcharging me. I am actually kind of shocked it all worked out, as I was prepared for something to go wrong and have to overnight in Amman. I think the trick to Jordan is staying as far away from taxi drivers as possible. Pretty uneventful day, with passing a random runaway donkey sprinting down the middle of the highway being the highlight. It is strange how the landscape of the north (mountains and valleys with greenery) differs from the south (desert) and changes almost instantly heading either direction from Amman. But it has been a lovely and memorable last few days and I am glad I stuck around in Jordan. And now, I am at one of the 7 wonders of the world... The amazing Petra!

Love,
Betsy

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Email to Friends: Amman and the Dead Sea‏

Hello!

I have left the wonderful country of Egypt and am now in Jordan. As is typical of my travel days changing countries, it didn't go exactly as planned. Hassles with taxi drivers in Aswan, a delayed Aswan flight making me miss my connection to Amman. Arguing with Egypt Air who thought a food voucher and new flight to Amman that got in at 2 something in the morning would be acceptable. More hassles to try to get to another terminal for an earlier Jordanian Air flight. But eventually made it. Hopefully my land crossing day into Israel in a few weeks will go without any hassles, but I surely won't hold my breath.

Jordan is really expensive for what you get. I had heard this from other travelers, but still am experiencing a bit of sticker shock after the great value for money in Egypt. Find out at the airport that the Visa has just gone from 20 Jordanian Dollars to 40 and the exchange rate is worse. Taxis and accommodation is expensive for what you get. At least street food is plentiful, delicious, and cheap.

Amman is situated amongst several hills. It is clean and quieter than Cairo. The Boutique Hotel recommended by Elisabeth is small, but centrally located in the downtown area and feels really safe. The manager is a wonderfully sweet man who lives on site with his wife and newborn baby (thankfully, making up for the less nice owner). The next morning, I head out walking. I check out the market where the produce and butchers are. Head to the Roman Theater and Citadel but am a little "ruined" out after Egypt. Wandering the streets, there are specific souks to buy gold, silver, hardware, spices, or furniture. Many storefronts have little birdcages full of singing canaries or finches hanging outside. Amman is huge and sprawling, with old and new parts. There are many Palestinians, Saudi Arabians, Lebanese, Asians, and some Syrians here. As a solo female traveler, I seem to be hassled a lot here, which was not happening in Egypt and people seem far more persistent and far less friendly. I spend the rest of the day climbing the steep hills covered in limestone buildings and secluded staircases and cut-throughs into small neighborhoods with good vantage points to the more modern buildings of other parts of Amman. I stumble upon something called the Jadal Culture Center with a nice shaded courtyard and enjoy an iced tea to beat the heat. In the late afternoon, I can see kites flying over the city as it cools off.

The next day, I head to the Dead Sea. There are no buses so instead of taking the bus that goes closest and hitch hiking the rest of the way, the hotel helps get me a private taxi for $30. But I am advised against using the free public beach as a woman alone, so have to pay $30 to get into the adjoining secured Amman Beach "resort" area. The car ride makes my ears pop as we go up and down the hills. The Dead Sea is a pretty blue with a haziness to the sky. It is funny as everyone is bobbing around bumping into each other. A few people are just hanging out reading. I apply some Dead Sea mud and float about, trying to keep the water out of my eyes as it really stings. My skin and hair are really soft after I get out and shower off all the salt.

I go to meet my taxi at 5pm and wait for almost a half hour and he doesn't show. At this point, almost everyone is gone and I am not sure what to do. There is not much in the area except a few super expensive resorts. I don't have the driver's number and there really isn't much out here. The facility offers to call me another taxi, but I had not brought a lot of cash with me since I had already paid for my return trip and didn't want a lot of cash in my backpack since I had to leave it alone on the beach while I was swim-floating. Unsure what to do, I figured the safest thing to do was to start walking on the only road out toward the resorts and bus stop in the nearest town while there was still sunlight and more cars on the road. I would also see my driver, should he pass. A few groups of men stop but are looking at me in a way that makes me feel uncomfortable so I decline their offers of a ride. Finally someone who seems nice enough offers me a ride to the bus stop but find out the last bus left at 4pm. Still about 45 minutes from Amman, I start walking again. This time I am in tears of frustration and anger. It amazes me that they were so concerned about my safety at the public beach, but not picking me up and leaving me stranded in the middle of nowhere is okay? Finally, a taxi driver takes pity on me. He had just driven from Amman and dropped a couple off at a resort and was on his way back to Amman with or without a fare. He takes what little money I can offer him and gets me back safely.

I am trying to like Jordan, but at this point I am fighting the urge to throw in the towel and call it quits. I haven't even seen Petra yet, but at this rate my travel budget will be blown by the end of the week. I have run into few solo backpackers (most are in group tours), perhaps because if the high cost of everything. While I hear Israel is as or more expensive, they apparently have more dorms (very few that are not very nice here) and solo travelers to help split costs.

I will likely try to head north tomorrow morning for a change of pace (and hopefully luck and spirits). There is a place called Jerash with old Roman ruins and a colosseum that they supposedly run gladiator style fights and chariot races with members of the Jordanian military. Then may try to head to a place called Umm Qais that is even farther north up near Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee, but heard it is difficult without a car. Or may just head to Petra. Either way, not sure about my Internet access and have no phone access here, so thought it would get this out now.

Love,
Betsy

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Email to Friends: Fantastic Temples and Forty in De-Nile‏

Hmm, I think my last email was from Sharm el Shiekh. Met up with Elisabeth and her friends Fouda (Mohammad 1) and Samy (Mohammed I Lost Track By Now) at the Cairo airport around 4am and got on our flight to Luxor. Flying over Cairo, I look for signs of the pyramids but see no signs in the dark. It is strange thinking of flying over something so ancient that is still standing. We arrive in Luxor in the early morning and the desert around the airport looks like desert scenes from Star Wars. Got checked into the cruise boat we would be using as home base for the next 5 days. In the late afternoon, we headed for Karnak temple. It was AMAZING. I have studied this place, but pictures don't do it justice of how enormous it really is. Rows of sphinx, massive pillars of the decorated hypostyle hall, gigantic statues and even a small lake. There was a sun set with beautiful rays of light through the clouds.

We checked out a papyrus art store and I bought myself a small souvenir. Then we went to Luxor after the sun set. It was lit up at night and was mostly empty, with only the sounds of the prayer from the mosque and city noises of honking horns and clop of horses and donkeys outside the walls. I sat on the middle of the floor all alone amongst the massive pillars, staring at the night sky and it was magical. Afterwards, I tried super fresh falafel in town and I wish I had more time to spend in what appeared to be a fun, friendly city.

The next day was a visit to the west side of the Nile. First was the Valley of the Kings, full of over 60 underground tombs (no photos allowed inside). We went inside the tombs of Ramses IV, Ramses IX, and Tutankhamen. They were each different and equally interesting, with different detailed hieroglyphic narratives and artwork shown along walls. We then were whisked off to the Valley of the Queens, with its impressive stairway into the mountainside monument. We reboarded the boat and set off down the Nile. I enjoy chatting with the variety of interesting people on the boat while watching scenes of life along the Nile and passing through the locks. We dock and overnight in Edfu.

The next morning, we take a horse carriage to the Temple of Horus in Edfu. It has an enormous pylon with statues of Horus depicted as a falcon. The columns depict many different plants such as lotus, palm, and papyrus. I know this will come as no shock to anyone, but I am bad at staying with the group and I almost immediately wander off as there are all kinds of dark hallways and storerooms to explore.

We head back to the boat to cruise to Kom Ombo to visit the temple of Haroeris and Sobek right next to the Nile. This temple worshiped crocodiles. It also had a calendar etched into the walls and a health clinic with a mural depicting ancient surgical equipment, some not unlike what is still used today. We also check out the attached Crocodile Museum full of mummified crocodiles and crocodile-related offerings. We sail again to dock and finally arrive in Aswan. I am going a bit boat crazy and want to stretch my legs, so we all set out to explore the Souk and are treated to coffee and a shisha from a really wonderful gentleman who is Egyptian but has been living in Tampa and has been part of our tour group.

At this point, I am a little templed out. But we grab a small ferry boat and visit Philae in the morning. It is on an island and is dedicated to Isis. Alongside the ancient monuments and depictions is also a French memorial to lost soldiers in one corner. I mainly just enjoy the view of the water along the temple edge, chase a cat around that has newborn kittens hidden under the temple floorboards, and chat with people. We then check out the Aswan High Dam, creating Lake Nasser, the largest man made lake in the World but also displacing a lot of Nubians. I take a break from the afternoon group activities and join two nice German men I have been chatting with the last few days on the cruise. Their guide and the guide's wife take us to the Old Cataract Hotel, a beautifully decorated hotel which used to be the Royal Palace. It is also famous for being the filming spot for Agatha Christie's Death on the Nile. We have enjoyable conversations and tea while watching the sun set as feluccas pass by, enjoying a slice of what ritzy people do on vacation.

The next morning starts at 3:15am. We are heading to Abu Simbel, south near the Sudan. We have to go by convoy with security and all groups going together. Our guide mentions we have a Swede, but fails to mention there is an American in the car as he says that may have delayed us and added an extra security guard to our car. Everyone thinks I am Spanish anyway :). It takes us three hours to get there, but it is well worth it. Dedicated to Ramesses II and Nefertari, it is one of my favorites, the statues outside are enormous. The interior artwork is well preserved (no photos allowed inside) and it is not too busy, even with us all having to go at once and be on a very set schedule. We even have it to ourselves for a brief, peaceful moment, taking it all in. It was truly spectacular. We visit the unfinished Obelisk once we return to Aswan and say goodbye to our guide and new friends we spent the week with on the boat.

We find a nice, relatively cheap but super clean hotel on the Corniche along the Nile called the Philae Hotel. Once we check in, we are off to explore the nearby bustling marketplace. We have a delicious and well-priced lamb dinner at El Masry before a night walk along the Nile to the lit up Cathedral. On the way back, we spot a rooftop deck and head up for some relaxation, tea, and enjoying the city lights at night off the boat.

Sleep in the next morning and plan how I want to spend my birthday. We hear word that there was a large fight in Aswan the previous evening resulting in over 20 killed. What supposedly started as a high school argument and graffiti turned into a violent fight between the Nubians and Arabs of the area. Hopes that it will not continue. We all head to Elephantine Island by ferry and explore the archeological area behind the closed Aswan Museum. We stop for tea at a house in the Nubian village and then wander around the village. It reminds me a little of Zanzibar with its narrow residential alley streets, ornate colors, and decorative doors. We head back to the city and mainland and grab a yummy late lunch at an off the road, little cafe restaurant for just a few bucks.

The guys head to the market and Elisabeth and I head to a Movenpick, swanky hotel that has a lounge atop a high tower with a 360 degree view of the city. We enjoy a beverage (I have a refreshing sunset rum drink) and then we all meet up and head to a Nubian restaurant called Al-Dokka on a little nearby island. It has a beautiful garden patio with the sounds of nearby frogs and live music by a man singing with his string instrument. I am completely full after a most delicious meat tangen dinner with bread and all the sides of tahini, abergine, babaganoush, and a yogurt dip. Thinking we have to hurry back to the hotel so Elisabeth, Fouda, and Samy can catch their flight back to Cairo, out comes a huge, super decorated chocolate and fruit birthday. Everyone sang happy birthday to me in both English and the Egyptian version. What a wonderful and thoughtful surprise and a perfect evening to ring in my forties and as my last evening in Egypt! We head back and say our goodbyes. I have another half a day wandering Aswan alone tomorrow and then sadly have to say goodbye to Egypt, as I head to Jordan tomorrow afternoon. My phone will be off since I no longer get free texting in Jordan (only Egypt and Israel, for some reason) but should have better internet access (except when I likely try to go stay in a cave... my pact to grow up and start acting like a responsible 40 year old obviously shouldn't start until I get back to the US). I will send an email once I get settled and come up with some sort of plan.

My trip photos from Egypt are up or you can view them as a slideshow.

Hope everyone is happy and healthy. And of course, I miss each and every one of you.

Love,
Betsy