Email to Friends: Amman and the Dead Sea‏

Hello!

I have left the wonderful country of Egypt and am now in Jordan. As is typical of my travel days changing countries, it didn't go exactly as planned. Hassles with taxi drivers in Aswan, a delayed Aswan flight making me miss my connection to Amman. Arguing with Egypt Air who thought a food voucher and new flight to Amman that got in at 2 something in the morning would be acceptable. More hassles to try to get to another terminal for an earlier Jordanian Air flight. But eventually made it. Hopefully my land crossing day into Israel in a few weeks will go without any hassles, but I surely won't hold my breath.

Jordan is really expensive for what you get. I had heard this from other travelers, but still am experiencing a bit of sticker shock after the great value for money in Egypt. Find out at the airport that the Visa has just gone from 20 Jordanian Dollars to 40 and the exchange rate is worse. Taxis and accommodation is expensive for what you get. At least street food is plentiful, delicious, and cheap.

Amman is situated amongst several hills. It is clean and quieter than Cairo. The Boutique Hotel recommended by Elisabeth is small, but centrally located in the downtown area and feels really safe. The manager is a wonderfully sweet man who lives on site with his wife and newborn baby (thankfully, making up for the less nice owner). The next morning, I head out walking. I check out the market where the produce and butchers are. Head to the Roman Theater and Citadel but am a little "ruined" out after Egypt. Wandering the streets, there are specific souks to buy gold, silver, hardware, spices, or furniture. Many storefronts have little birdcages full of singing canaries or finches hanging outside. Amman is huge and sprawling, with old and new parts. There are many Palestinians, Saudi Arabians, Lebanese, Asians, and some Syrians here. As a solo female traveler, I seem to be hassled a lot here, which was not happening in Egypt and people seem far more persistent and far less friendly. I spend the rest of the day climbing the steep hills covered in limestone buildings and secluded staircases and cut-throughs into small neighborhoods with good vantage points to the more modern buildings of other parts of Amman. I stumble upon something called the Jadal Culture Center with a nice shaded courtyard and enjoy an iced tea to beat the heat. In the late afternoon, I can see kites flying over the city as it cools off.

The next day, I head to the Dead Sea. There are no buses so instead of taking the bus that goes closest and hitch hiking the rest of the way, the hotel helps get me a private taxi for $30. But I am advised against using the free public beach as a woman alone, so have to pay $30 to get into the adjoining secured Amman Beach "resort" area. The car ride makes my ears pop as we go up and down the hills. The Dead Sea is a pretty blue with a haziness to the sky. It is funny as everyone is bobbing around bumping into each other. A few people are just hanging out reading. I apply some Dead Sea mud and float about, trying to keep the water out of my eyes as it really stings. My skin and hair are really soft after I get out and shower off all the salt.

I go to meet my taxi at 5pm and wait for almost a half hour and he doesn't show. At this point, almost everyone is gone and I am not sure what to do. There is not much in the area except a few super expensive resorts. I don't have the driver's number and there really isn't much out here. The facility offers to call me another taxi, but I had not brought a lot of cash with me since I had already paid for my return trip and didn't want a lot of cash in my backpack since I had to leave it alone on the beach while I was swim-floating. Unsure what to do, I figured the safest thing to do was to start walking on the only road out toward the resorts and bus stop in the nearest town while there was still sunlight and more cars on the road. I would also see my driver, should he pass. A few groups of men stop but are looking at me in a way that makes me feel uncomfortable so I decline their offers of a ride. Finally someone who seems nice enough offers me a ride to the bus stop but find out the last bus left at 4pm. Still about 45 minutes from Amman, I start walking again. This time I am in tears of frustration and anger. It amazes me that they were so concerned about my safety at the public beach, but not picking me up and leaving me stranded in the middle of nowhere is okay? Finally, a taxi driver takes pity on me. He had just driven from Amman and dropped a couple off at a resort and was on his way back to Amman with or without a fare. He takes what little money I can offer him and gets me back safely.

I am trying to like Jordan, but at this point I am fighting the urge to throw in the towel and call it quits. I haven't even seen Petra yet, but at this rate my travel budget will be blown by the end of the week. I have run into few solo backpackers (most are in group tours), perhaps because if the high cost of everything. While I hear Israel is as or more expensive, they apparently have more dorms (very few that are not very nice here) and solo travelers to help split costs.

I will likely try to head north tomorrow morning for a change of pace (and hopefully luck and spirits). There is a place called Jerash with old Roman ruins and a colosseum that they supposedly run gladiator style fights and chariot races with members of the Jordanian military. Then may try to head to a place called Umm Qais that is even farther north up near Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee, but heard it is difficult without a car. Or may just head to Petra. Either way, not sure about my Internet access and have no phone access here, so thought it would get this out now.

Love,
Betsy