Catching the earliest ferry to Magnetic Island was easy after the $33 AUD roundtrip ticket. The boat ride is nice in the early morning. I arrived on the Island and the island bus is right outside the ferry terminal, one going to each direction from the terminal and going back and forth all day. An all day pass is only $7 AUD. I arrived at my hotel, Amaroo on Mandalay. It was early and I had some time before the office opened to see if I could have an early check-in. Took a walk around the neighborhood and got koala spotting tips from neighbors. Spotted all different kinds of birds walking about, as there is lots of vegetation and not that many residents. The island had one road on one part of the coast which turns into a dirt road for 4 wheel drives. The middle of the island appears uninhabited, except for wildlife (including the 100 or so wild koalas on the island). The hotel is lovely with gardens and a mineral swimming pool. When the office opened, they let me check in right away. The room has everything needed. A front patio to watch birds, a back patio with a bbq and wooded area for rock wallabies, and a fully stocked kitchen. I spend the day close to the hotel in Nelly Bay and playing in the pool. I went to my room in the late afternoon and was visited by wallabies in my backyard. This island is paradise. Beautiful setting, friendly residents, beaches and hikes around the island, and I hear little to no crime. I met a man at my hotel that came for a few weeks vacation... 25 years ago! He now just lives at the hotel and has been married and widowed since. I walked to the grocery store and picked up food for my couple of days here. Made dinner and had an early night.
The next morning, I woke up early, had coffee and watched the birds out front. I caught a bus to the Forts Walk in Horseshoe Bay, supposedly the best place on the island to see koalas in the wild. It is an easy walk with lots to see as it heads up to an old WWII fort with spectacular views. I walked slow, looking in the Y of the tree branches for koalas as well as looking down at the path, as people are known to place an arrow in the dirt or with rocks if they spot a koala, as they don't move much or very fast during the day. I made it to the top of the walk with no koala sightings and dejectedly headed back down the hill, looking as hard as I could. I ran into a local who saw my camera and asked if I had seen koalas and I sadly said no. He laughed and said, "Not even the one about 150 meters back?" Wha???? My face lit up. He walked me back to see it, so I didn't miss it. There he was, all snuggled up in the Y of the tree. Grey fur matching the color of the bark and little movement makes for hard spotting. I had literally walked past him TWICE. Took pictures and then finally let him sleep in peace, heading back down the hill. Then spotted another little koala not far from the path who I also must have passed on the way up! He was a little more active, having trouble getting comfortable for his mid morning slumber. He finally found a comfortable spot and passed out on a branch, arms dangling down. So lucky to see two! Apparently, as the heat of summer comes, they stay farther up in the hills and aren't as visible. After I was done at the Forts Walk, I headed down to check out Horseshoe Bay before heading back by bus to the hotel for lunch. Then I grabbed my snorkel gear and got info from a nearby shop and headed out to the Geoffrey Bay snorkel trail. Left my stuff at the old jetty and hopped in. The visibility was not very good, but it was good to test out my leg to make sure I could dive in two days. Got out to dry off before catching the bus back and sat on the jetty, watching the nearby rock wallabies hop around. A huge ray jumped out of the water with a splash. I made it back to the hotel for the kookaburra feeding at the pool. One of the hotel owners feeds them every night at 5:30, which they seem to know. It was a perfect day. If visiting Australia again, I would definitely stay on this island longer, and would try to get on an S.S. Yongala Wreck dive (supposedly one of the best wreck dives where a large boat hot stuck in a cyclone and is now pretty well preserved, but only available to dive from the island a day or two a week).
My hotel gave me a late check-out so I could catch the 12:15pm ferry and hop right on my 1:20 bus to Airlie Beach. I had planned on playing in the pool, but it was cloudy. So I just goofed off and packed and picked up some snacks for the bus ride (tim tams, a Fanta passionfruit cream soda, and a Bundaberg ginger beer special spiced Christmas Edition!). By the time I was going to start walking to the ferry, it was raining. The hotel owner was kind enough to give me a ride to the ferry terminal.
Easy connection from the ferry, as the bus to Airlie Beach picked up right from the ferry terminal. The four hour drive goes down the coast and passed lots of green farmland, a huge contrast to the outback. There were sugar cane, mango, pineapple, watermelon, and squash farm fields. We crossed lots of rivers and lagoons. We made a few stops in smaller towns such as Ayr and Bowen before pulling into the Port of Airlie. I walked to my apartment rental, which is probably bigger than my condo at home. And it has a jaccuzi tub on the balcony with a peakaboo view of the water. Off to bed early, as I want to be well rested for diving the Great Barrier Reef with an early departure in the morning.
I walked over to the Airlie Port for a 7:30am boarding. We are on a large ferry boat. We meet up in little groups around the ferry and it seems pretty well run for the chaos of all of these people who signed up to do different things. First we drop some people off on Hamilton Island. Then we pass several other smaller Whitsunday Islands and head out through the rougher boating channel. Finally, we reach a pontoon on Hardy Reef, part of the Great Barrier Reef. I was worried, as there are still about 75-100 people on board the ferry boat. But luckily, most people are snorkeling or on a submersible boat or taking helicopter rides. There are only six divers and two guides with our group. I was also concerned about the equipment, as I always like to see it before diving with a company, but I had to book online and they jeep their gear out at the pontoon beforehand.But it turned out to all be quite nice, and I have my own mask and snorkel. We get two dives with am included BBQ lunch between the dives. The dives were just okay. The reef is in decent shape, with some loss from the last cyclone. The sea life wasn't great. As somewhere I have always wanted to dive, it was a bit of a disappointment. I had heard the same from others who dove from Cairns. I think the better way to do it would be a liveaboard boat for a few days to see more secluded areas of the reef. Still fun to get out in the ocean and dive again, though. I was better on air than the rest of the group and so by the time I came up after my second dive, everyone else was already on the ferry and I had to run on as we departed back for Airlie Beach. The seas were rougher heading back and about one third of the boat was vomiting. Ugggh... thankful that I don't seem to get seasick. I hang out in the back and chat with the engineer/boat mechanic, away from the barfers
The next morning, I had no plans. I had gone to a tour company business the night before to look at options and had some serious BS rude "service"... can you still call it service if they greet and help every one else that walks in but completely ignore you? As it was Thursday in Australia (but still Wednesday in the States), it was my Thanksgiving. As a treat to myself for the holiday, I headed back to the Port and booked a day trip to White Haven beach with snorkeling, drinks, and a BBQ buffet lunch aboard a bright purple catamaran. It was the same company as the day before, and they gave me a bit of a bargain. It was a nice, relaxing day on the water. The boat was only about half full and the weather was perfect. First we take a stop at a secluded bay and go snorkeling. They provide us with stinger suits, and I have my own mask and snorkel. Not much to see, so I basically just chase fish around and go swimming. Then we get back on the catamaran and sail a bit more until we land at White Haven Beach. There are several other tour groups here, but it is not super crowded. There is a small hike up to a peak with absolutely spectacular views all around. It is gorgeous and like something out of a dream. You can look down on the bay that the boats unload at. There are views far across the water and of nearby other islands. The sand is so white against the blue water. From the viewpoint height, you can see concentric circles around a distant island from the white sand under different depths of water. Then we headed down to the beach, which had nice, soft sand. I took a pre-lunch nap on said sand before we all headed back to the catamaran for our feast. There are no other Americans onboard, so I celebrated Thanksgiving by myself. Luckily, lots of nice people in our group so lots of good conversation and exchange of travel tips. After lunch, we head back to Airlie Beach. On my walk back to my apartment, I did see what looked like a turkey, only with a bright red and yellow gobbler!
The next day was a travel day. Checked out of my apartment and goofed off in Airlie Beach for a few hours before catching a shuttle to the airport about 40 minutes away. I caught my flight to Brisbane and then my connection to Perth. Both flights were delayed (I would NOT recommend Virgin Australia airlines... terrible service). I got in to Perth later than expected and was unsure of my plan to catch the bus and train to Fremantle. I didn't want to take the $32 shuttle or a $70-80 taxi. Luckily, someone at the airport helped me and I met a guy on the bus from Munich who was also heading to Fremantle so we could navigate it together late at night, for only $4.75! Arrived at my adorable B&B and Fremantle appears cute, safe, and pretty quiet compared to Perth (which is only a 20 minute train ride).
Had a great night sleep in the Fremantle B&B. The bed is the most comfortable I have had in Australia and the owners seem to go out of its way to make you feel at home. Breakfast of french press coffee, orange juice, greek yogurt with honey and fruit jam, and a fruit cup and then met up with the Munich guy from the bus the day before to wander the town. We walked to the ferry terminal and along the waterfront to the Roundhouse, an old jail. Next, we walked over to the Fremantle Market, which is open Friday-Sundays. The Market was pretty small and geared mainly to tourists, with some produce, meat, and cheese stalls. We walked around the town more, which is cute with it's older buildings with wrought iron balconies and full of coffee shops and restaurants. We walked over to the old Fremantle prison, built by convict labor from 1852-1859 and used as a colonial prison, military prison, and maximum security prison which was finally shut down in 1991. We went back to the Market for lunch at a busy Japanese ramen shop, Dosukoi, that we had seen earlier (my new Munich friend lived in Japan for a while). It was quite good. We watched a few funny street performers around the Market while waiting for our spot at the lunch counter. After our yummy lunch, we walked out to South Beach, but it was windy and not all that nice.
The next morning, the guy from Munich and I had a booked tour at 7am. He had heard of this place in the desert called Pinnacle Desert in Nambung National Park which is about 3 hours north of Perth. We had looked in to tours the previous day, but only one large tour bus ran on a Sunday and only left from Perth. The train didn't run early enough on Sundays, so we would have had to share a $60AUD taxi ride to get from Fremantle to Perth. The booking company called a woman who ran a private tour, and she agreed to come pick us up in Fremantle. The private tour only cost us about $15 more dollars each after the cost of the taxi and seemed a way better option than a big tour. We set out at 7am, for the about three hour drive. We pass plenty of bush and grassland with cattle farms, peppered with colors of late wildflowers and bright yellow-orange flowers on what they call the Christmas Tree (because of when they bloom). We make a quick stop in Lancelin, a small fishing and agricultural lime production town on the ocean, for coffee and a croissant. Continuing on, we start seeing large sand dunes which are a stark white (like mountains of sugar or snow) and the landscape gets more sparse. These sand dunes are supposedly mobile with the Western Australian winds and move up to thirty-nine feet in a year. We arrived at Pinnacles Desert and visited the Interpretative Hall first to learn about the area and the theories to where the pinnacles come from (there has not been a consensus yet). We walked across the amazing desert spotted with columns and pillars, ranging in shape and size up to 4m high. Our guide gives us plenty of time to roam around. It is other-worldly. There are structures that are little/tall, pointy/rounded, light/dark, solid/holed. There is even one that looks like Edvard Munch's "The Scream". As we are getting ready to leave, we spot an emu as it is running across the desert. Of course, I chased it around for a bit... boy, are they fast! Our guide showed us the little, red berries the emus like to eat. Being on a private tour is nice because she is flexible on the time schedule when random things come up.
Speaking of random things, we left the Pinnacle Desert and stopped at Cervantes, a small nearby town known for its lobster fishing, for lunch. We were talking about animals when the server came over to take our order and she said "Did you see what those women have in that baby pram?" I had seen them pass me with the stroller, but didn't pay much attention. There were two baby kangaroos!! Ahhhhh!!! They were orphaned, one when the mom was hit by a car and the other a pinky. They were raising them until a nearby sanctuary had room for them. AND THEY LET ME HOLD ONE!! I couldn't contain my excitement. I have had so many happy moments, but unexpectedly getting to snuggle a baby kangaroo is WAAAYYYY up there. After our amazing lunch (the fish and chips were quite good, as well), we watched some wind surfers on a nearby beach and then headed to Lake Thetis for stromatolites. Very cool, as I did not even know what they were. Apparently, the oldest living fossils growing only 1mm a year, some are believed to be 3.7 billion years old. They live in salty conditions, 1.5 times saltier than the ocean, which is created in the lake by evaporation from the wind. On the way home, I finally spotted a wild kangaroo we passed in a sand pit by the side of the road (and also saw two more emus). Our guide was wonderful, super informative and accommodating and I highly recommend her. It was such an excellent, unexpected adventure!
And on my final day, I checked out of my lovely B&B, who held my luggage for the day. Hopped on a ferry to Rottnest Island to visit quokkas, a small marsupial I had seen on the internet years ago and fell in love with. There is a bus around the island, but it is infrequent and everyone said I needed to rent a bike to see the island. Most of you know bike riding is not one of my strong points, to put it mildly. And the last time I had been on a bike was about 15 years ago. I decided to suck it up and try the bike. In the rental line, I met a very nice woman who lived in Fremantle and had been to the island previously with her family to camp and snorkel. She laughed at my trepidation on a bicycle and offered that we go around the island together. It was fabulous, as she knew all the spots and snorkeling with a buddy is always safer. She made she to bicycle slowly as I got used to riding a bike. You have to stop every once and a while any way to enjoy the views and hit the brakes for the occasional lizard who was sunning themselves on the warm road. We visited a spot with multiple ship wrecks until the current got stronger. There have actually been twelve shipwrecks around the little island since 1842 due to the strong currents, complex reef system, and proximity to the port in Fremantle. The current started getting pretty strong and bumping us around. I don't think either one of us wanted to get bumped up a against the wrecks, which were shallow in areas. So we hopped out and headed to another spot she wanted to try. The second area was great! It was a sea grass and coral protected area with lots of fish hiding out and swimming through the sea grass. We snorkeled for quite a while, until I got cold and she got hungry. And I finally found my favorite, a nudibranch, right before coming in! The snorkeling was surprisingly better than any I had done anywhere else on this trip. My new buddy shared her lunch with me and lizards came to play with us (almost got in her bag). We biked around the rest of the island. Saw the salt lakes, the lighthouse, and enjoyed beautiful vistas. But most importantly, we saw quokkas! In fact, there is no way you can come to this island and NOT see quokkas. They are EVERYWHERE. They are adorable and curious, seeming to have a smiles on their faces. Some are lounging on the road, some are sleeping in the grass, some are eating pretty much whatever they can get their hands on. Some even had young ones with them. Another one even got in to it with a peacock. Well, technically, the quokka couldn't have cared less and just continued eating whatever he found that was apparently too close to the peacock's territory. The peacock spread out his plume and made this rattling noise with the feathers. He turned around, stomping his feet and ruffling his back feathers. I was initially a bit frightened for the quokka, but the he just kept shoving food in his mouth. Maybe it's my spirit animal? (there is a photo, but the video with sound is better). My buddy had an earlier ferry than me so we returned the bikes and headed to a bar/restaurant overlooking the water. We enjoyed a beer while watching a large stingray swim close to the shore. Quokkas run around under your feet, looking for handouts. We said our goodbyes and I spent the next hour and a half playing with quokkas. I tried to get a selfie with one, but I am terrible at selfies and it was always blurry and/or half of one of our faces. Closest I got to a selfie was with the one that came up and licked my knee, as if to say goodbye before my ferry to take me back to Fremantle.
I grab my bag and my lovely B&B let me take a quick shower, even though I had already checked out. Leaving Fremantle, I was treated to one of the most beautiful sunsets I have seen, as a proper goodbye. I would really like to come back and do more of Western Australia some day. And now for the long journey home: Train and bus from Fremantle to Perth, flight from Perth to Sydney. Train to the international terminal, flight from Sydney to LAX, and then flight from LAX to Seattle. See you soon, hopefully!
Trip photos are up online or you can view them as a slideshow.
Love,
Betsy
Traveling is part of me and helps me learn more about myself. As a way to remind myself to travel more and forget less, I set up this Travel Notes blog. While not detailed travel reports, these are email notes recapping my mostly solo adventures (typos and grammatical errors included-- most were typed on my phone). I send them to friends and family along the trip, but archive them here with photos to share, once I return home.
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Monday, November 27, 2017
Saturday, November 18, 2017
Email to Friends: Australian Desert and Outback
I flew into Ayers Rock airport from Sydney and was picked up by Mulga's Adventure Tour group who had driven from Alice Springs that morning. I dropped my stuff at camp and met the rest of the group. Our group had a total of 14 people from all over: France, South Africa, Holland, Czechoslovakia, Slovakia, Korea, China, and UK. It was a great size for the group and we all got along well. Our guide, Matt (AKA Scruffy) was entertaining and had a background as a previous camelier, zookeeper, and accomplished chef. We all headed out for a hike at Kata Tjuta, otherwise known as the Olgas. They are a cluster of 36 domed rocks and we went on a walk amongst them, learning a little about the Aboriginal culture, marveling at the beautiful red rock, and looking down on the Valley of Winds. Afterwards, we visited a lookout to see the Olgas from a distance. There were storms rolling in fast and it started raining. This changed our plan to enjoy champagne while watching sunset at Uluru. We went back to the campsite and got situated, helping prep for dinner. There was finally a break in the rain right as the sun disappeared, so we made the best of it and watched the sunset from a hill near camp. We enjoyed a rainbow while sipping our champagne. We had burritos for dinner and then helped clean up and got to know each other better. Took a quick shower at the campsite facility and were shown how to set up our swag, am Australian canvas set up for sleeping on the ground with a mattress inside. I pimped out my swag with my thermarest Neoair ultralite that I always travel with, my monkey travel pillow and my own sleeping bag and silk bag liner. Everyone else set up on a concrete block under a roof, but I moved my swag out away from the group as I trusted it would not rain again that night and I wanted to see the stars and faraway lightening storm while I fell asleep. It was warm at first, but then became a perfect temperature and was super comfy. Lucky for me, it didn't rain that night!
We woke up at 4am, rolled up our bed roll swags, and had a quick breakfast (or just coffee for me, as per usual). By 5am, we were headed off to Uluru sunset viewing area in the darkness to try to catch sunrise. There were was too much cloud cover for a spectacular sunrise, but it was still enjoyable. We then drove over to Uluru and had several unguided hours to walk around the whole base.
Being a primarily solo traveler in the past, tour groups tend to me make feel constrained and overwhelmed. It was nice to be given the independent time and I got away from the group and just walked alone, taking it all in. The colors are extraordinary as the rock gets much redder as the sun gets higher. I had heard about all the flies in the outback, but the rain was helping in making them not a problem (as well as keeping it a little cooler). There was also plenty of flowers in bloom, making for a colorful contrast to the red earth. I loved every minute of it, marveling at the different colors and shapes and the sheer size of it all. I stopped to play with birds I could find and stopped to check out gnarled looking lone trees. We then met back up as a group and Matt, our guide, walked with us for the last little part, explaining some of the Aboriginal history behind certain areas. Apparently, all of the guides must attend a school to learn the story the Aboriginals want told of the area. But there is a lot that they choose not to tell. It was nice to see that our tour guide was respectful of the cultural aspects, especially after seeing people trying to sneak photos when specifically asked not to in certain areas. Or seeing so many people climbing on the rock, even though the sign specifically states a few of the reasons not to (and our guide told us of many others). He also told us only one person on his tour opted to climb it, and he was kicked off the tour. Granted, there is a guide rope and the rock is all worn down in the place people climb, but it just seems to me to be deeply offensive of the local culture and both natural and spiritual significance of what you came to visit. We finish off at the Uluru Cultural Center for a few minutes before heading back to camp for lunch.
After a most delicious lunch of camel burgers, we pack up our bags and head off for the several hours drive to our next camp near Kings Canyon. I got to sit in the first seat of the minivan and helped look for creatures. Like me, our guide loved lizards and snakes! Sadly, most of the lizards we saw had met an untimely death by vehicle while crawling to the heat of the road. But I did see three groups of wild horses and I think what was a brown falcon. The guide told me that anyone who catches a wild horse or a wild camel can keep them in Australia! Luckily, neither of those animals appeal to me much or I would be moving here and chasing after them, straight away. The scenery is beautiful with blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds up against expansive red earth that seems to go on forever. The landscape is broken up by more gnarled trees. They each seem to have character, some smaller scrubby trees and some that remind me of the Dr. Seuss Lorax trees. Mixed in to what seems to be endless landscape is pale yellow grass and occasional wildflower patches. There are occasional hills and rock formations and a few small areas of water from nearby rains. We make a pit stop at a Cattle Ranch. We also visit a salt lake lookout which is normally white, but was unfortunately muddy after the recent storms. Nearby is Mount Connor, a flat topped mountain that looks like Table Mountain in South Africa. Apparently, plenty of tourists have confused this mountain with Uluru. I guess I can see it? We stop close to our second nights campsite to gather firewood along the side of the highway for dinner and marshmallow roasting. Unfortunately, I while jumping on a big branch to try to break it up, either I landed wrong or the branch moved. Either way, the pop I heard was NOT the branch, and in the battle of Betsy versus branch, branch won. I could barely walk. First I thought it was my Achilles tendon as pain shot up my leg. But it appears to be a calf muscle tear of some sort. I wrapped it with an ace wrap in my bag and tried alternating heat and ice with elevation.
Once we arrived at our campsite, our guide cooked us up a fabulous dinner! We had grilled kangaroo, campfire cooked homemade bread and au gratin potatoes with a green salad. Super yummy, especially followed with tim-tams and roasted marshmallows. This camp is more rustic than the last, but still quite civilized. A woman got bitten by a scorpion outside the women's bathroom (she had climbed up Uluru that day... maybe karmic payback?) and a large snake was found in camp (not sure if it was the same python that was found in camp the day before) while I was in the shower. I laid my swag out on the ground by the fire and had a view of the Milky Way above me and a bagazillion stars with a faint lightening storm behind the canyon. It was a great sleep and 4am came fast.
My calf was even more sore and slightly bruised. I could barely stand on it. I had to opt out of the Wattarka, or King's Canyon Rim Hike with the hundreds of stairs up "Heart Attack Hill". I almost considered coming home early if walking was going to be an issue, but decided to make the best of it. Luckily, it loosened up a little and I learned how to walk on it with less pain if I keep my knee bent. I went with the rest of the group to the Canyon and then did my own little hobble on the Creek Walk and up a few of the stairs toward the Southern trail. Enjoyed being near the water and seeing more interesting trees and interesting rock formations. I did get to see a Perentie lizard, the largest monitor lizard in Australia, moseying across the trail. Shockingly, he heard me coming and moved faster than I thought he would. I asked nicely, but he didn't seem to want to stop for a photo. Rude! Sad I missed the big hike, but still had fun any way. We had lunch, cleaned up camp, and drove back late afternoon to Alice Springs, making a pit stop at a Roadhouse with good coffee (and my new favorite bottled soda, Coke with coffee... a night shifter who often lives on caffeine's dream!)
Woke up and did some good ol' sink laundry at my hotel in Alice Springs. They had a clothesline to dry my stuff, which was nice. I tried to book my shuttle to the airport for the afternoon, as their is no public transport to the airport. It was all full for the entire day. A taxi was almost $40, but the nice woman at the front desk helped me out by posting on Facebook to see if any of her friends could drive me for $20. A sweet woman who worked at a restaurant next door came by and said she would do it. That gave me several hours to explore Alice Springs. I went to several art galleries. Lots of kitchy tourist stuff, but one off from the main area was great. The owner was nice and the gallery has studio space for the aboriginal artists and works with them to create unique stuff for fair prices. Also stopped by the Flying Doctors to check it out. Also went to the Reptile Museum, but it seemed expensive for what it appeared to be. Alice Springs was definitely not a place I wanted to spend a lot of time. Felt like a seedy Mexican border town... ugly with all the high concrete walls and barb wire on everything due to high crime rates. I was glad to be moving on.
Caught my flight to Cairns. We flew over several grassland fires which glowed orange in the night. Talked to my seatmate on the flight over who is a government worker, living in Perth and dealing in water resources. He and a co-worker were heading to an investments meeting and they let me hitch a ride in their taxi to the city center, instead of waiting for the shuttle and then the city bus as I had originally planned. Their hotel is a quick 4 minute walk from the bus terminal and the hotel they are staying at is super nice (at least the lobby is). The concierge let me store my backpack and I ditched my night market plan as we all went to watch the Arsenal soccer match in the attached casino sports bar that supposedly has the largest TV in Queensland. Super weird to go from the outback to such a posh place in a Vegas style casino with people dressed up in evening gowns for a Christmas party (yes, they appear to start even earlier than we do in the Christmas department... perhaps because they don't have Thanksgiving?). We said our goodbyes when it was time to leave for my 1 am bus and the hotel staff returned my bag and gave me a snack and water for the bus trip. Everyone is so nice and helpful in Australia! And an Aussie girl told me she liked my accent tonight and invited me to join them going out. Ha!
And now it is about 5:30am and the bus has just pulled in to Townsville. I think I have about an hour wait until the first ferry to Magnetic Island (or Maggie as the locals appear to be calling it) at 6:30am. Hoping my leg heals up well enough to dive. If I have to dive with one leg, will I just go in a circle around the Great Barrier Reef? Just kidding. This is, however, my chance to try to see a koala in the wild. Rare, but worth a shot... keep your fingers crossed for me!
Love,
Betsy
We woke up at 4am, rolled up our bed roll swags, and had a quick breakfast (or just coffee for me, as per usual). By 5am, we were headed off to Uluru sunset viewing area in the darkness to try to catch sunrise. There were was too much cloud cover for a spectacular sunrise, but it was still enjoyable. We then drove over to Uluru and had several unguided hours to walk around the whole base.
Being a primarily solo traveler in the past, tour groups tend to me make feel constrained and overwhelmed. It was nice to be given the independent time and I got away from the group and just walked alone, taking it all in. The colors are extraordinary as the rock gets much redder as the sun gets higher. I had heard about all the flies in the outback, but the rain was helping in making them not a problem (as well as keeping it a little cooler). There was also plenty of flowers in bloom, making for a colorful contrast to the red earth. I loved every minute of it, marveling at the different colors and shapes and the sheer size of it all. I stopped to play with birds I could find and stopped to check out gnarled looking lone trees. We then met back up as a group and Matt, our guide, walked with us for the last little part, explaining some of the Aboriginal history behind certain areas. Apparently, all of the guides must attend a school to learn the story the Aboriginals want told of the area. But there is a lot that they choose not to tell. It was nice to see that our tour guide was respectful of the cultural aspects, especially after seeing people trying to sneak photos when specifically asked not to in certain areas. Or seeing so many people climbing on the rock, even though the sign specifically states a few of the reasons not to (and our guide told us of many others). He also told us only one person on his tour opted to climb it, and he was kicked off the tour. Granted, there is a guide rope and the rock is all worn down in the place people climb, but it just seems to me to be deeply offensive of the local culture and both natural and spiritual significance of what you came to visit. We finish off at the Uluru Cultural Center for a few minutes before heading back to camp for lunch.
After a most delicious lunch of camel burgers, we pack up our bags and head off for the several hours drive to our next camp near Kings Canyon. I got to sit in the first seat of the minivan and helped look for creatures. Like me, our guide loved lizards and snakes! Sadly, most of the lizards we saw had met an untimely death by vehicle while crawling to the heat of the road. But I did see three groups of wild horses and I think what was a brown falcon. The guide told me that anyone who catches a wild horse or a wild camel can keep them in Australia! Luckily, neither of those animals appeal to me much or I would be moving here and chasing after them, straight away. The scenery is beautiful with blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds up against expansive red earth that seems to go on forever. The landscape is broken up by more gnarled trees. They each seem to have character, some smaller scrubby trees and some that remind me of the Dr. Seuss Lorax trees. Mixed in to what seems to be endless landscape is pale yellow grass and occasional wildflower patches. There are occasional hills and rock formations and a few small areas of water from nearby rains. We make a pit stop at a Cattle Ranch. We also visit a salt lake lookout which is normally white, but was unfortunately muddy after the recent storms. Nearby is Mount Connor, a flat topped mountain that looks like Table Mountain in South Africa. Apparently, plenty of tourists have confused this mountain with Uluru. I guess I can see it? We stop close to our second nights campsite to gather firewood along the side of the highway for dinner and marshmallow roasting. Unfortunately, I while jumping on a big branch to try to break it up, either I landed wrong or the branch moved. Either way, the pop I heard was NOT the branch, and in the battle of Betsy versus branch, branch won. I could barely walk. First I thought it was my Achilles tendon as pain shot up my leg. But it appears to be a calf muscle tear of some sort. I wrapped it with an ace wrap in my bag and tried alternating heat and ice with elevation.
Once we arrived at our campsite, our guide cooked us up a fabulous dinner! We had grilled kangaroo, campfire cooked homemade bread and au gratin potatoes with a green salad. Super yummy, especially followed with tim-tams and roasted marshmallows. This camp is more rustic than the last, but still quite civilized. A woman got bitten by a scorpion outside the women's bathroom (she had climbed up Uluru that day... maybe karmic payback?) and a large snake was found in camp (not sure if it was the same python that was found in camp the day before) while I was in the shower. I laid my swag out on the ground by the fire and had a view of the Milky Way above me and a bagazillion stars with a faint lightening storm behind the canyon. It was a great sleep and 4am came fast.
My calf was even more sore and slightly bruised. I could barely stand on it. I had to opt out of the Wattarka, or King's Canyon Rim Hike with the hundreds of stairs up "Heart Attack Hill". I almost considered coming home early if walking was going to be an issue, but decided to make the best of it. Luckily, it loosened up a little and I learned how to walk on it with less pain if I keep my knee bent. I went with the rest of the group to the Canyon and then did my own little hobble on the Creek Walk and up a few of the stairs toward the Southern trail. Enjoyed being near the water and seeing more interesting trees and interesting rock formations. I did get to see a Perentie lizard, the largest monitor lizard in Australia, moseying across the trail. Shockingly, he heard me coming and moved faster than I thought he would. I asked nicely, but he didn't seem to want to stop for a photo. Rude! Sad I missed the big hike, but still had fun any way. We had lunch, cleaned up camp, and drove back late afternoon to Alice Springs, making a pit stop at a Roadhouse with good coffee (and my new favorite bottled soda, Coke with coffee... a night shifter who often lives on caffeine's dream!)
Woke up and did some good ol' sink laundry at my hotel in Alice Springs. They had a clothesline to dry my stuff, which was nice. I tried to book my shuttle to the airport for the afternoon, as their is no public transport to the airport. It was all full for the entire day. A taxi was almost $40, but the nice woman at the front desk helped me out by posting on Facebook to see if any of her friends could drive me for $20. A sweet woman who worked at a restaurant next door came by and said she would do it. That gave me several hours to explore Alice Springs. I went to several art galleries. Lots of kitchy tourist stuff, but one off from the main area was great. The owner was nice and the gallery has studio space for the aboriginal artists and works with them to create unique stuff for fair prices. Also stopped by the Flying Doctors to check it out. Also went to the Reptile Museum, but it seemed expensive for what it appeared to be. Alice Springs was definitely not a place I wanted to spend a lot of time. Felt like a seedy Mexican border town... ugly with all the high concrete walls and barb wire on everything due to high crime rates. I was glad to be moving on.
Caught my flight to Cairns. We flew over several grassland fires which glowed orange in the night. Talked to my seatmate on the flight over who is a government worker, living in Perth and dealing in water resources. He and a co-worker were heading to an investments meeting and they let me hitch a ride in their taxi to the city center, instead of waiting for the shuttle and then the city bus as I had originally planned. Their hotel is a quick 4 minute walk from the bus terminal and the hotel they are staying at is super nice (at least the lobby is). The concierge let me store my backpack and I ditched my night market plan as we all went to watch the Arsenal soccer match in the attached casino sports bar that supposedly has the largest TV in Queensland. Super weird to go from the outback to such a posh place in a Vegas style casino with people dressed up in evening gowns for a Christmas party (yes, they appear to start even earlier than we do in the Christmas department... perhaps because they don't have Thanksgiving?). We said our goodbyes when it was time to leave for my 1 am bus and the hotel staff returned my bag and gave me a snack and water for the bus trip. Everyone is so nice and helpful in Australia! And an Aussie girl told me she liked my accent tonight and invited me to join them going out. Ha!
And now it is about 5:30am and the bus has just pulled in to Townsville. I think I have about an hour wait until the first ferry to Magnetic Island (or Maggie as the locals appear to be calling it) at 6:30am. Hoping my leg heals up well enough to dive. If I have to dive with one leg, will I just go in a circle around the Great Barrier Reef? Just kidding. This is, however, my chance to try to see a koala in the wild. Rare, but worth a shot... keep your fingers crossed for me!
Love,
Betsy
Tuesday, November 14, 2017
Email to Friends: 'Ello from Sydney
I know I never sent out my final Spain email with photos, but work and life took over on my return. Will get to it later. For now, I am traveling alone, having to leave Wade at home working. I feel like I have always wanted to go to Australia for as long as I can remember. I wanted to be a foreign exchange student here in high school, but turned out Australian isn't really considered a "foreign language." I tried to get here as soon as I graduated from college with a friend, but ran in to passport issues that lasted over a year. Well.... now I am here! Flew into Sydney, which is a pretty airport to fly in to (beaches, cliffs, ocean views on the circle in). I grabbed an Opal transit card at the airport and headed via train to my hotel. It is a little strange for me to be able to navigate so easily as everything is in English! Well, except they drive on the other side of the road so I am constantly getting scared by traffic looking the wrong way or walking on the wrong side of pedestrian foot traffic, or standing on the right side of an elevator... tough habits to break! Arrived at my hotel Glenferrie Lodge and instantly loved the neighborhood, Kirribilli. Big, beautiful houses, people are friendly, easy to get around but across from the actual city center near the Sydney Harbor Bridge. My room is smallish and plain, but has everything I need and a big backyard garden area to relax in. I spent the first day walking around by hotel, my usual routine of getting my bearings. Spring time flowers are all out in bloom and the streets smell of jasmine and gardenia. I love the intense purple jacarunda trees which line the street. The secondary residence of the Prime Minister is at the end of my block, so the neighborhood feels very safe. Waterfront views a few blocks away look across the harbor to my first real glimpse at the Opera House. I did found the neighborhood stores and did some grocery shopping for liquids I couldn't bring as I went all carry on for my flight. I grabbed dinner at Kirribilli Seafood for some fish, calamari and chips with a strange chicken salt before falling asleep relatively early.
The next morning, I walked over the Sydney Harbor Bridge to the Royal Botanical Garden. Wander around in there for hours, checking out strange birds, some of which are just weird to see in the wild such as cockatiels and a few lorakeets (that steal people's food like pigeons or seagulls). Walked along the water with more views of the Opera House and looked at the sculptures and art along the way. Checked out the desert botanicals, the fernery house and a beautiful exhibit on pollination with a whole wall of flowers. Leaving the gardens, I headed out to walk the city. I started chatting with an older gentleman who moved to Australia two years ago from Syria and we had coffee and walked the harbor ferry dock. Then I went to check out the Police and Justice Museum, which was interesting to hear the stories notorious Sydney criminals and see all of these black and white photos they had uncovered. Originally, they didn't even have the story behind some of the photos, but as locals visited, they spotted relatives or new of stories that have been added to the exhibits. The mug shot photos are also great because in most of them, they are grinning and just excited to get their photo, as they think it is the first time many of them have seen a camera. Headed back to the Harbor and wandered through the Rocks neighborhood nearby, checking out old houses. Visited the Sydney Observatory, Australia's oldest surviving observatory set up in 1858 mainly to provide time for ships in Sydney Harbor. Then I ended up walking over to Darling Harbor and then on to Chinatown and Paddy's Market for some cheap and yummy Thai food. I meandered back towards my hotel, walking through the central area of the city past Town Hall decorated with a rainbow flag for the upcoming same sex marriage vote and the Queen Victoria Building. I headed back to the Royal Garden for sunset. Great views of the Opera House at sunset as well as my hotel's neighborhood amusement park lit up at dusk. I walking back across the Sydney Harbor Bridge to my hotel, enjoying the nightly 7 minute Badu Gali light show the lightsup on the sides of the Sydney Opera House with vivid colors. Phew... legs tired after about 14.5 miles of walking!
The next day, I headed for Milson's Point, the closest subway to my hotel. Stopped by nearby Luna Park, a goofy, but fun looking amusement park. I happened upon a Kirribilli Sunday Outdoor Market where I looked at arts and crafts and grabbed an absolutely delicious lamb sandwich from a food truck called Follow the Cow, specializing in South American and Spanish flavors, and a lemon cordial from this woman selling homemade baked goods. Then I headed off to Newtown because I heard it was a good area to check out street art. It is a cute area of town and I walked around for hours checking out street murals and then wandered in to a huge festival with live music at the park that happened to be going on that day. Grabbed some delicious meat pies and avocado feta toast at the Bourke Street Bakery on the way back to the train station. They messed up my order and the manager tried to refund my money, which I wouldn't allow. So instead, she added a ginger tart to my goodies. It was amazing! Took my goodies and headed on a ferry to Cockatoo Island. It is a historic island that was inhabited in the 1800s where originally second crime criminals where held. The prisoners were put to work building barracks and guardhouses and residences. It later became shipyards and old ship building/repair workshops during WWII. There was lots of old buildings and equipment to clammer around and tunnels built as WWII air raid shelters. The island was pretty empty when I first got there, so it felt a bit spooky at times wandering through all the old abandoned buildings. I ran around for a few hours and ate my baked goods for dinner while enjoying the views, before catching a ferry to the city. On the way, I took a quick stop to visit the ANZAC Veterans Memorial (I missed Veteran's Day in the US) before heading back to the hotel.
The next day, my head cold I had been staving off finally got me. I spent most of the day sleeping. I wanted to go to the Museum of Diseases and the North Sydney pool and sleep in the sun, but didn't want to spread my germs. In the afternoon, I had a nice chat with a mom and daughter at my hotel, visiting from another small city in Australia here in Sydney to pick up some expensive jewelry bought on an online auction: I had an dinner and picked up some cold medicine and went early to bed.
Woke up super early yesterday morning and thankfully felt better. I caught an early train at sunrise and then the L line to the Fish Market for a tour of the wholesale market, which occurs at 6:40ish every morning. I was lucky to book it somewhat last minute, as only 15 people are allowed per day and you can only watch on a tour. The guide was super informative and knowledgeable. It is a very interesting process based on the Danish auctions used for tulips to get sellers the best price and buyers the highest quality product... kind of like a Wall Street of fish. Then I caught the train to Turrella Nature Reserve on Wooli Creek to try to catch the flying fox bats. I had read there are close to 12,000 at this spot on the internet. They all fly out at dusk, but sleep in the trees during the day. There used to be some at the Royal Botanical Garden, but were causing too much damage to the trees and were recently relocated. They were incredible to see... trees full of them! Some had babies, hanging upside down with their cute little faces occasionally peeking out before they wrapped their wings around themselves like a little snuggie. Occasionally, one would fly out, showing their massive wingspan and making a flapping noise almost like a helicopter. I finally left to let them sleep in peace and headed off to bus to Bondi Beach for some sun and relaxation. I was going to do the Bondi to Congee walk along the coast, but immediately settled in when I saw the beach, sunning and watching the surfers. Headed back to my hotel in the late afternoon for some last minute errands, conveyer belt sushi at Sushi Rio, laundry and packing. On my walk home through the neighborhood, I met an Australian guy who lived around the corner from the hotel who had lived in Wenatchee and Leavenworth for 5 years. He invited me to a BBQ with his friends. After finishing my laundry, I headed over there to hang out and chatted before going to sleep.
And now I am off to catch my flight to Ayers Rock/Uluru. Three days with two nights of camping out under the stars in a swag! Should be fun.
Love,
Betsy
The next morning, I walked over the Sydney Harbor Bridge to the Royal Botanical Garden. Wander around in there for hours, checking out strange birds, some of which are just weird to see in the wild such as cockatiels and a few lorakeets (that steal people's food like pigeons or seagulls). Walked along the water with more views of the Opera House and looked at the sculptures and art along the way. Checked out the desert botanicals, the fernery house and a beautiful exhibit on pollination with a whole wall of flowers. Leaving the gardens, I headed out to walk the city. I started chatting with an older gentleman who moved to Australia two years ago from Syria and we had coffee and walked the harbor ferry dock. Then I went to check out the Police and Justice Museum, which was interesting to hear the stories notorious Sydney criminals and see all of these black and white photos they had uncovered. Originally, they didn't even have the story behind some of the photos, but as locals visited, they spotted relatives or new of stories that have been added to the exhibits. The mug shot photos are also great because in most of them, they are grinning and just excited to get their photo, as they think it is the first time many of them have seen a camera. Headed back to the Harbor and wandered through the Rocks neighborhood nearby, checking out old houses. Visited the Sydney Observatory, Australia's oldest surviving observatory set up in 1858 mainly to provide time for ships in Sydney Harbor. Then I ended up walking over to Darling Harbor and then on to Chinatown and Paddy's Market for some cheap and yummy Thai food. I meandered back towards my hotel, walking through the central area of the city past Town Hall decorated with a rainbow flag for the upcoming same sex marriage vote and the Queen Victoria Building. I headed back to the Royal Garden for sunset. Great views of the Opera House at sunset as well as my hotel's neighborhood amusement park lit up at dusk. I walking back across the Sydney Harbor Bridge to my hotel, enjoying the nightly 7 minute Badu Gali light show the lightsup on the sides of the Sydney Opera House with vivid colors. Phew... legs tired after about 14.5 miles of walking!
The next day, I headed for Milson's Point, the closest subway to my hotel. Stopped by nearby Luna Park, a goofy, but fun looking amusement park. I happened upon a Kirribilli Sunday Outdoor Market where I looked at arts and crafts and grabbed an absolutely delicious lamb sandwich from a food truck called Follow the Cow, specializing in South American and Spanish flavors, and a lemon cordial from this woman selling homemade baked goods. Then I headed off to Newtown because I heard it was a good area to check out street art. It is a cute area of town and I walked around for hours checking out street murals and then wandered in to a huge festival with live music at the park that happened to be going on that day. Grabbed some delicious meat pies and avocado feta toast at the Bourke Street Bakery on the way back to the train station. They messed up my order and the manager tried to refund my money, which I wouldn't allow. So instead, she added a ginger tart to my goodies. It was amazing! Took my goodies and headed on a ferry to Cockatoo Island. It is a historic island that was inhabited in the 1800s where originally second crime criminals where held. The prisoners were put to work building barracks and guardhouses and residences. It later became shipyards and old ship building/repair workshops during WWII. There was lots of old buildings and equipment to clammer around and tunnels built as WWII air raid shelters. The island was pretty empty when I first got there, so it felt a bit spooky at times wandering through all the old abandoned buildings. I ran around for a few hours and ate my baked goods for dinner while enjoying the views, before catching a ferry to the city. On the way, I took a quick stop to visit the ANZAC Veterans Memorial (I missed Veteran's Day in the US) before heading back to the hotel.
The next day, my head cold I had been staving off finally got me. I spent most of the day sleeping. I wanted to go to the Museum of Diseases and the North Sydney pool and sleep in the sun, but didn't want to spread my germs. In the afternoon, I had a nice chat with a mom and daughter at my hotel, visiting from another small city in Australia here in Sydney to pick up some expensive jewelry bought on an online auction: I had an dinner and picked up some cold medicine and went early to bed.
Woke up super early yesterday morning and thankfully felt better. I caught an early train at sunrise and then the L line to the Fish Market for a tour of the wholesale market, which occurs at 6:40ish every morning. I was lucky to book it somewhat last minute, as only 15 people are allowed per day and you can only watch on a tour. The guide was super informative and knowledgeable. It is a very interesting process based on the Danish auctions used for tulips to get sellers the best price and buyers the highest quality product... kind of like a Wall Street of fish. Then I caught the train to Turrella Nature Reserve on Wooli Creek to try to catch the flying fox bats. I had read there are close to 12,000 at this spot on the internet. They all fly out at dusk, but sleep in the trees during the day. There used to be some at the Royal Botanical Garden, but were causing too much damage to the trees and were recently relocated. They were incredible to see... trees full of them! Some had babies, hanging upside down with their cute little faces occasionally peeking out before they wrapped their wings around themselves like a little snuggie. Occasionally, one would fly out, showing their massive wingspan and making a flapping noise almost like a helicopter. I finally left to let them sleep in peace and headed off to bus to Bondi Beach for some sun and relaxation. I was going to do the Bondi to Congee walk along the coast, but immediately settled in when I saw the beach, sunning and watching the surfers. Headed back to my hotel in the late afternoon for some last minute errands, conveyer belt sushi at Sushi Rio, laundry and packing. On my walk home through the neighborhood, I met an Australian guy who lived around the corner from the hotel who had lived in Wenatchee and Leavenworth for 5 years. He invited me to a BBQ with his friends. After finishing my laundry, I headed over there to hang out and chatted before going to sleep.
And now I am off to catch my flight to Ayers Rock/Uluru. Three days with two nights of camping out under the stars in a swag! Should be fun.
Love,
Betsy
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