Luang Prabang is relaxing and easy, probably due to the number of tourists that flock to this UNESCO World Heritage town. It is set in a valley in the mountains with the Mekong and Nam Khan river running through it. My accomodation, Ho Xiang I Guesthouse turned out to be perfect! Spotlessly clean, located a half a block from the Mekong and a few blocks from sights and the night market, and the family speaks little English but is wonderful (especially the grandmother, who is apparently 88 years old and doesn't speak any English, but has a kind face and always smiles at me and looks after me). Okay, maybe I just had to kill a huge roach or water bug (which would also explain why geckos are 6-7 inches here instead of the normal cute little ones) right after I wrote that, but in this climate right next to the river, it probably can't be helped... and I am sure there is only one, yes?!? Whatever helps me sleep at night, right? Luckily, I didn't see another one.
The first day, I was just going to walk around and get my bearings, but Add, a super nice hotel guest who is from Thailand but does business in Laos and spends a lot of time here, offers to drive me around and show me some sights. He takes me to a waterfall that is heavily touristy (they have elephants to ride and zip lines and such), but still nice. We take a boat to reach it. He speaks and if I don't say anything, I get charged the local price. He treats me to a lovely lunch overlooking the falls and I go explore the area later while he waits below. He also takes me to the Royal Palace Museum, which is full of interesting history about Luang Prabang and then Phousi temple that is 355 steps up to beautiful 360 degree views of the town. We part ways and I wander the street looking for a spot for dinner. I found the guidebook-recommended Luang Prabang sausage and sticky rice and a pineapple shake for dinner at a place along the Mekong and it was really yummy. Chatted with an English teacher who is from Thakhek (but now lives in northern China and sometimes Florida) who was home for his nephew's funeral, who was a famous monk in that town. He was excited that I had just visited his home town.
As with other good service and guesthouses I have found while traveling, I recommend my guesthouse to others I meet to try to help their business. The English teacher, Joe, from last night switches guest houses this morning to mine. We make plans for lunch and I go off to explore the town by foot. Saw the market and more temples and looked at different cooking classes to decide which to sign up for. Met Joe for lunch and we had a lovely traditional Lao meal of minced fish with mint, spices, and peppers, and steamed watercress and garlic which we eat with our hands and sticky rice. After, I went for more walking around town and visit where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan River. Still haven't really gotten my bearings, as most streets don't have names and there are both little and big streets. It is super hot and I may have gotten a bit of heat exhaustion, so had to head back to the guesthouse to load up on water, eat the dragon fruit I picked up at the market, and cool off. Went to enjoy sunset along the Mekong and wander the night market for a small bite. There may have been a few BeerLao consumed later that evening, as Add heads back to Bangkok in the morning.
I was going to head by bus up north to Nong Khiaw and further up river by boat, but my body seems to be telling me it is tired, and I think I will try to recharge a bit more here. Wandered the little side streets and ate at the baguette stands on the street. To avoid yesterday's heat exhaustion, I return to the guesthouse at noon, and the family invites me to join them for lunch and fresh fruit by the grandma. Watched the neighborhood boys play "kick the water bottle" and hide and seek as one tries hiding behind my skirt, giving me the universal "shhhhh" sign (but I think my smiling gave him away to the other boys when they look at me). Another boy decides it is too hot for shorts today, so just runs around in his shirt and underpants (not unlike my neighbor across the street from me). Went to walk the bridge in the afternoon, but got side tracked, as usual, as some monks invited me in to watch their evening chanting. Back at the guesthouse, grandma motions for me to come sit next to her and she shares her roasted corn with me while we sit smiling at each other in silence.
Today, I woke up at sunrise to watch the monk procession. Much different from Myanmar, as this one is full of tourists and people are taking flash photos and not following any of the other requested rules that are posted everywhere and say makes them lose a bit of their culture and tradition every day. So enjoyed the beautiful morning light over the misty mountains surrounding the Mekong instead, as people shuttled in and out by boat to villages across the river. Then headed to my Lao cooking class at Tamarind Restaurant. First we went to the market. The morning hustle and bustle was mainly over, but I still had that guilt of being like that annoying tourist in Pike Place Market who get in the way of everything. Then we headed to the class kitchen, which was in a beautiful setting outside of town, beside a river and a pond. Learned to cook a spicy roasted eggplant dish to dip sticky rice into, lemongrass stuffed with chicken and then fried, and a buffalo dish with a bit if tripe and bile (sorry cute water buffalos, which I love so much). We finished the meal by making coconut milk and boiling it with sugar and purple rice with fresh mangosteens, pineapple, lychee, and dragon fruit. We each got a recipe book, so I hope to try more at home. Back at the guesthouse, it started to rain and the father asked for help with his computer and setting up Skype (which he tried while sitting right next to me). They invited me to join in the family dinner, but I was still too full from lunch. The rain let up so I went to watch the sunset from my favorite spot on the wall along the Mekong. Afterwards, I watched the men gamble and play a game similar to Bocce ball, but I declined the offer to play (mostly because none of them spoke English to explain the rules).
I am heading off north to Nong Khiaw tomorrow morning, so will likely lose Internet (and luxuries such as hot water, and maybe indoor showers and bathrooms... oh well, the better to help me appreciate my resort hotel my parents gifted me with in Siem Riep). May go trekking or may just explore the little town, depending on the weather and the cost (heard it was expensive). Then back to my favorite guesthouse family in Luang Prabang on the 20th for a night before my flight to Siem Riep on the 21st.
Hope all is well with everyone! And hope this email goes through, as Hotmail seems to be intermittent for me lately.
Love,
Betsy
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