It is currently government run and the schedules were known to be lax, with boats often breaking down. In fact, the most up to date information on ferries seems to be on a Facebook page where citizens post up to date info for the day (on a page that uses a photo from the movie Bird Box with Sandra Bullock blindfolded in a boat as their cover page...showing how much the residents trust the system). They had also recently moved most ferries from Fajardo to Ceiba and the new facility infrastructure was not suppose to be that great. So I was ready for it to be a big hassle, but in fact, it surprisingly went rather smoothly! We drove to Ceiba and left the car, as no tourists can get cars on to the island. We managed to purchase our ticket for what I thought was the tourist schooner, but they loaded us up on an earlier departing cargo boat. 
They let us go sit on the cargo platform, and it was nice to lay in the sunshine with the waves (even when one splashed up over the side and soaked me, much to everyone's amusement). We arrived earlier than check-in at our apartment, but I had arranged to leave our bags. The apartment was in a perfect location next to a canal and near the ferry terminal and several restaurants. We grabbed a quick lunch and headed to Flamenco Beach for the rest of the day. 
There are big group shuttle buses that run from the ferry terminal to Flamenco Beach. It used to be used as testing grounds of the US military, but now ranks in the top of several rankings most beautiful beach in the world awards. It really was picture perfect, even with the crowds. There are also two rusted old tanks to explore on the beach, which people decorate and graffiti from time to time. 
We just played in the water a bunch and happened to run in to the couple who suggested we eat at the roadside stand when at El Yunque, so chatted with them a bit. We headed back to town in time for me to talked to Culebra Divers dive company that also rented snorkel gear near the ferry terminal. I found the woman at the desk to be unknowledgeable (she told me there were nudibrachs didn't exist in Puerto Rico... only in places like Fiji) and a bit rude, so ruled out diving with them or giving them any business whatsoever (which she did not seem interested in, any way). 
We walked over to our apartment, the Blue Flamingo at Culebra Linda Apartments, and checked in. It was perfect! Two rooms, nice kitchen, and a large balcony deck next to the canal to watch boats come and go. We even had a little resident gecko on the balcony deck that I named Samuel. 
We found an amazing grocery store, Colmada Milka, right next to our apartment that was small but somehow stuffed with goodies, even stuff that I don't see in Seattle like Enstrom toffee. We each grab groceries and I grabbed meat, cheese, and olives and enjoy a tapas dinner on the balcony. Wade and I played cribbage on the balcony surrounded by twinkling red and green lights until bed.
The next day, Naomi and Wade both succumbed to their bad sunburns and decided to stay out of the sun. I checked out a different dive company named Aquatic Adventures near the apartment in the morning. Well, technically I went to the shop because there were a bunch of cats there and I wanted to pet them all. But then one of the owners showed up and she seemed so much more likeable then my experience the day before. And she must be good people because she fed the cats (and one chicken) that were outside and they all seemed to know when she got to work. 
I decided I would go snorkeling and see what I could for the day and then decide what to do the next day. I went off to snorkel at Playa Tamarindo, which was easy to catch a ride to on the shared shuttle to Playa Flamenco. It quickly became an overcast day, so it was a perfect day to spend snorkeling. 
The water was nice and calm, so even though I only brought my mask and snorkel and no fins, I could still swim way out. I saw several rays, four turtles, and a barracuda. It was mainly sand and seagrass, and a small coral rebuilding area that some University of Puerto Rico students were working on. 
It started to pour rain, and there were very few people out at this beach. I was going to walk back to the main road to try to catch a taxi, but managed to hitch a ride on the back of an older couple's golf cart (the way lots of people get around). Turns out they were from Kingston! We decide to go to dinner at one of the popular restaurants, Dinghy Dock, across the street from our apartment. First we stopped in to a little art gallery next door (between Dinghy Dock and the nice dive shop, Aquatic Adventures). Naomi found a beautiful necklace that she bought. We ended up getting a table next to the water and watch the huge tarpons swimming around looking for table scraps that people throw them. We all agreed that dinner was good, but not worth the money. I decided to skip diving the next day and try to get to a small island called Culebrita that had been recommended to me by my friend, Dan. I will have to try to get some diving in if we make it to Greece in the Fall. Wade and I play more cribbage on the deck and then off to bed.I woke up early and start making phone calls to try to get to Culebrita. The first guy I called was super nice, but heading out on vacation. He texts me a bunch of phone numbers of other boat operators. After several calls, I got a hold of someone at H2O Water Taxi (787-685-5815 or watertaxih2o@hotmail.com) who said their early boat was full, but if they could find a few more people, they would be able to take us. She called back in about an hour, saying they had enough people to go out. We made it to the dock specified by a google map point. There, we met up with another a couple and a group of the nicest older folks. We head out on this little boat and the waves are choppy, but our boat driver German is excellent. It did scare one of the older ladies and she had a bit of a panic attack.
On the way, we passed this HUGE futuristic, James Bond-looking megayacht which turned out to be "Sailing Yacht A", the world’s largest sailing yacht. We arrived safely at this amazing little beach with the whitest sand on an undeveloped island. A little sea turtle even came to greet the boat and a little crab awaited us on the beach! The older gentleman of the group had difficulty getting around as his legs had pretty bad edema, so we all helped each other get to shore. 
Then I went off snorkeling and chasing turtles around. Our boat driver had snorkel gear for everyone, so Wade tried his hand at snorkeling. The beach has a big hole that must have had a nesting turtle in it recently, with evidence of little broken shells. We walked to go visit tide pools and climbed up to see the views. On the way back, we saw wild goats (sadly, I didn't have my zoom lens with me for some reason). 
I also found some really different looking lizards. It was pretty hot, so we didn't walk to go check out the old lighthouse because I wasn't sure if you were allowed in it (the info I saw on it said "do NOT go in, it is very unsafe but the views from the top are beautiful"... ummm, mixed messages anyone?!?). When we got back, we played with the hermit crabs that seemed to sense when a bag of chips was opened from wherever they were hiding (not unlike my co-workers). 
Sadly, the day had to come to an end and we all packed up and helped each other back on the boat. I said goodbye to my beach crab who had barely moved all day and the little turtle who was still swimming around near the boat. It was a perfect day with a perfect group of people. When we got back to Culebra, one of the ladies in the group of older folks invited us to dinner at their condo in Condado in San Juan. Sadly, we the timing wasn't going to work out, but she texted Wade later and said the next time we come back, we are to message her. Wade later said that a conversation they had while I was snorkeling made it sound like the older gentleman may or may not have been the former president of Bacardi. We had decided to rent a jeep on our last day on the island as it would allow us to see more of the island and have a place to store our luggage after an 11am checkout from the apartment (there is really only two choices... a golf cart or a jeep for rental transportation on the island). 
Since the jeep rental is for 24 hours with free pickup and dropoff and we were catching a late afternoon ferry, we had the jeep rental place come pick us up at the boat dock and went and grabbed a jeep. We went back and grabbed Naomi, heading out to watch sunset back on the beach I went snorkeling the day before. We go back and shower before heading to dinner. 
Sadly, dinner was kind of a bust as the restaurant I had heard good things about was closed. Construction was being done on the main road in town, so lots of businesses were closed. We ended up driving around and stopped for loaded baked potatoes and churros at a stand called Sweet and Salty on the side of the road.
Our last day, and my birthday! We wake up and pack. I sit on the balcony with my breakfast coffee (man, the coffee is so good here) and watch a little old lady fishing across the canal at Mamacita's, cat at her feet. We loaded our luggage in the jeep and set off to explore the island after the 11am checkout. We visit the little history museum and drive around the island, checking out some of the farther beaches like Zoni Beach and watch pelicans on the way to Playa Punta Soldado where I take my last ocean swim. 
We drop off the jeep and they drive us to the ferry dock where we catch the fast tourist schooner ferry back to Ceiba. Luckily, our rental car is just fine after sitting for a few days and we drive to Fajardo to check in for our bioluminescent bay kayaking tour. I have a yummy birthday dinner of garlic butter fish and rice and beans. The bioluminescent bay tour with Peniel Access Tours is a blast. Puerto Rico has three of the only five bioluminescent bays in the world. The brightest in PR is supposedly on Vieques, but this one is second brightest. The glowing water is best seen with no moon, and that happened to fall right near my birthday. We head out at 8pm, so it is pretty dark. We pair up and each two man kayak cuts across the ocean into a mangrove channel. We slowly kayak through the channel, trying not to bump in to each other (there are lots of tours all out at once). 
The channel opens up to a bay with the dinoflagellates. While the water doesn't glow all blue like they make the photoshopped photos, it still does shimmer and make it look like you are pouring white glitter out of your hands when you move the water around and pour it out of your hand. Pretty magical! Wade and I did a good job working together to not bump in to too much or tip over. We still have a few hours before returnoing the rental car and checking in for our 5am flight. So we find a place to shower at the public beach behind the men's room. We try to dry our wet clothes on rusty wrought iron chains and dance in the street to people playing music and hanging out. We then drive back to San Juan and pop in to a late night dining spot called Waiter's Gastro Bar in Condado area for second dinner :) I had the best rice with homemade sausage dish that was enough to feed three people. Sadly, all good trips have to end, and we head off to return the car and check in for our flights home. Puerto Rico was a blast, and we just may have to return!Trip photos are up online or you can view them as a slideshow.
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