Turns out my timing here in Israel is during lots of holidays and days things shut down. In the week I have been here, there has been Easter, Passover, Shabbat, and now I am told by my hosts that the Holocaust Remembrance Day (Yom Hasho'ah) is coming up. While this could be seen as a disruption, I have quite enjoyed seeing many of the rituals. And with so many areas and different religions within a close proximity, there is always somewhere that does not observe the same holiday and is open if need be. 
But it meant today would be my last day in Jerusalem, as Yom Hasho'ah is the day after and it will be difficult to travel. I decided it would be fitting to spend my last day visiting Yad Vashem, the official memorial museum for Holocaust victims. It is outside the city center, but easy to get to by tram. 
Although the museum was a bit chaotic that day, as there was to be a big ceremony for the next day's holiday, it was an absolutely beautiful, educational, peaceful, and heartbreaking experience. The museum itself has great architectural design. There are gardens and educational centers, reading rooms, and exhibits. It does a great job bringing together the history of that time, but also highlights the heroes and positives in such a dark time. Most memorable was the Hall of Names, a commemoration of all victims in a high-domed room with photos that seem to bring life to each person as a deep reflection pool in the pit of the floor reflects the images. 
The walls are lined with binders full of personal stories, memorabilia and quotes that brings an identity and humanness to each victim. In another room is one of the existing copies of Schindler's actual list. And finally was a underground cavern of darkness where a Children's Memorial single flame reflects off mirrors and looks like never-ending stars. 
I was glad to go early, right when the museum opened to experience it before all the big busloads of tour groups arrived. I went for a walk in the gardens next to the museum, in an attempt to visit Hertzl's Tomb, but it was closed as they were preparing for the holiday events.
Emotionally drained, I prepared for my return back to Tel Aviv. I treated myself to a nice lunch at a restaurant named Zuni, suggested by a friend who used to like there. I had a delicious lunch of Lamb meatballs with beets and pomegranate sauce and a side of roasted cauliflower. I picked up a few thank you presents to leave behind for my hosts as I dropped off their house keys and grabbed my backpack. I booked a nice hotel a block off the beach for my last night in Tel Aviv and headed for the bus terminal.
Returning to Tel Aviv from Jerusalem is night and day. I am greeted with the now familiar bustle of the city. The walk from the south bus station to the hotel is dodgy. The dilapidated nearby apartments are mainly inhabited by African refugees and there are too frequent unwelcoming racist signs and graffiti on the walls. As a walk closer into the city and towards the beach, the party atmosphere is back (although a bit muted due to closures for the upcoming holiday that begins at sundown). The now familiar vans full of Na Nach Hasidic Jewish men that jump out at stoplights and start dancing... I kid you not. Finally I make it to the lovely Blue Glass Hotel and go catch the last of the sunshine at the beach.
Not my video, but gives a general idea of the dancing Na Nach dancing vans:
The next day I got up, packed my luggage and walked over to the Market. Picked up some breakfast and tried to get to the nearest busy street corner to observe the moment of silence for Yom Hasho'ah. I am glad I did. It was really intense. The sirens start blaring and people IMMEDIATELY stop what they are doing. Cars, buses, taxis pull over or just STOP. People stand still, whether in a cross walk in the middle of the street or in conversation. It is eerily quiet and people are all with bowed heads, deep in their own individual thoughts but as a collective group. Time fully stands still. It was incredible to see. I am very glad it was explained to me by my Jerusalem hosts first, or else I would have been very confused (and probably pretty alarmed at the siren).
Didn't get a video as I was deep in my own reflection, but here is someone's from the previous year:
I went to the beach for a dip until my checkout from the hotel at noon. 
My flight wasn't until 11:30pm that night, so I decided I would leave my bags at the hotel and go explore the Tel Aviv Museum of Art (mainly since they had air conditioning and I knew it would be a long day and flight home. Turned out to be a great decision. It was a really great museum. I was saddened to learn I had just missed an exhibit on graffiti, but I wandered down to the traveling exhibit hall and found a favorite artist of mine's work. I first learned about Vik Muniz through his documentary called Wasteland where he creates art with the help of people who work and live at a huge dump in Brazil, and changes lives in the process. I was so excited to get to see some of his work!
On the way home, I finally was craving a cheeseburger so stopped in to get one. I was chatting with some guys in line and they decided that should not be my last meal in Israel. Thy told me of a great little street food place in a nearby neighborhood. I headed over there, saw the line of locals out the door, and was sure it was the right place. Grilled meat, potatoes, hummus, and salad wrapped with spicy sauce in an Israeli pita and it was absolutely delicious. Great last day in Israel and wrap up to my trip. I walked back to the hotel, grabbed my backpack, swung by Miznon to see if if my friend was there to say goodbye (she wasn't so I left her a note), and walked to the train to head to the airport. By chance, I ran into my Jerusalem host near the train station so had last minute goodbyes. I was hassled a bunch at the airport by security (lots of questioning about my stay in Egypt, searching of my bag, taking my belongs apart and dusting everything for bomb residue or gun powder or something). And the flight from Tel Aviv to JFK was one of the worst ever. But back in the US, I was happy and felt blessed for the new experiences and super happy to be home.
The Middle East (much like everywhere) has so many issues, so much history, and so much complexity. Every time I thought I had a small sliver of understanding, I would learn something new and know that I would likely never be able to understand it all. But it is a fascinating, lively place full of kind and hospitable people. I would love to go back some day. Here are all of my Israel trip photos or you can view them as a slideshow
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