As we woke to head from Nuremberg to Frankfurt, all DB trains were on strike (apparently a common issue here). The front desk at our hotel said it was suppose to last until 9am, but said they can run longer as it takes a while to get them running again. The main train station was a mess, with people trying to exchange previously reserved tickets and big train delays. At least we have our twin rail pass so we can just jump on and off any trains going. We were told to listen to the announcements, which of course were all in German. "Something something something Frankfurt something something please." Luckily, nice younger people who spoke German and English helped translate when needed. As most trains had been cancelled and everyone just jumping on whichever trains were running, our train was packed. But even the most crowded German train is infinitely more comfortable than some of the random chicken buses I have been on. I comfortably sat on my luggage and could see out the window with some nice German girls beside me. And, there was a little snow as we headed from Nuremberg! And they handed out free chocolate on the train. I may have stolen Wade's, as I also may have also done with the mini Haribo gummy bears the hotels leave on our pillows each night. The DB woman noticed and proceeded to sneak me extras every time she passed me.
Full on free chocolate, we arrived at Frankfurt to a rainbow dropping in to the city. Our hotel, Hotel Monopol, is an old building right near the main train station, which is convenient to everything and easy to find. From their website, some of their rooms appear to be updated, but not our room. But it is clean enough and very spacious, plus free mini bar with juice and beer and free coffee and cakes in the lobby. We set off to explore the city and the Christmas Market. I instantly like Frankfurt. The buildings are a mix of new skyscrapers and older buildings and there is lots of ethnic diversity. The Christmas Markets were great! Lots of room to move, some stuff for sale that you don't see at every other market, an area in Romerberg that is reconstructed old buildings had a fun double-decker merry go round and a hall with all high-end local handicrafts, including photography, paintings, jewelry, and homemade scarves and clothing. Everyone seems friendly and appears to be having a good time. And I found reibekuchen, which I looked for and couldn't find in Nuremberg. They are fried potato pancakes like latkes with a variety of sauce choices. I think applesauce is the traditional, but I chose the specialty 7 herb and cream sauce. We walk down the commercial street, stopping to hear a great street musician. We head back to the hotel, walking past the Alte Oper (original opera house) and hear more musicians playing outside and then off to bed.
The next morning, we wake up and walk across a bridge and along the Main River in the museum area. We grab a yummy breakfast at a little neighborhood bakery and then walk back across another bridge covered in love locks and back through the Christmas Market as it opens. We head to Kleinmarkethalle, the food market where there was all kinds of free samples (like a mini Pike Place Market). I saw the most beautiful wheel of cheese I have ever seen, covered in colorful flower petals. I ended up buying some truffle salami and spicy not too briny olives. We grabbed a train to nearby Mainz. We were trying to meet up with a friend of Wade's family, but there was a mix up in location. After some back and forth, we finally got off at the right stop at Mainz-Kastel in nearby Weisbaden and found the pretzel bakery, Geppert Brezelbackerei. Their family has owned the bakery since 1928. We stopped and said hello, but they were very busy running the shop. We grabbed baked goods (I had a yummy cheese pretzel) and we jumped on a bus to visit the Mainz Christmas Market in hopes of meeting up with them when they closed. There was a dish I had two years ago at this market called grünkohl, which I still remembered. It is a comfort food with kale and potatoes with sausage or meat that just warms the belly in the cold weather. Took me a short amount of time, but I found it and it was just as good as I remembered it. I really should try to make at home on a cold night! We went back to the bakery, but missed the owners. Instead, we stopped by a used store (like Goodwill) in the little neighborhood that had all kinds of goodies to look through. Wade bought a 2 euro beer stein and I got a wooden incense smoke house that was far better than I saw at any Christmas Market. We headed back to Frankfurt, visiting the Christmas markets one more time for dinner. I find another favorite treat, mushrooms in wine, garlic and cream sauce!
We got up early the next morning to return to the Geppert Brezelbackerei, as there was a mix-up when we went back to meet Marcus and his wife after the Mainz market the day before. Marcus was so nice and treated us to delicious coffee and super yummy pastries and gave us each a big gingerbread man for our travels. We then continued on by train to a little town called Braubach, that had a castle that was open and easy to get to from the train station. The train ride was picturesque, as it follows the Rhein river. Little towns in the valleys, wine grapes up the hills, and the occasional castle or ruin at the top of the hills. I had emailed the tourist information office of Braubach in advance, and they let us store our luggage for free while we took the walk through the town and up the hill to Marksberg Castle. We were there just as it opened and managed to get in a small tour of about 8 and the guide decided to give the tour in English (as I learned on my last trip to Germany, there are not many English tours in the off season). The tour was very informative and they rooms were decorated to give you a real feel of castle life. The castle was the only one not destroyed during war of around 40 castles in the area (but was damaged in an earthquake). The views from the castle were also beautiful. We then grabbed a train to Koblenz and then off to Trier. I greatly enjoyed my previously purchased salami and olives as train snacks along the journey.
We arrived in Trier later than expected. Trier is right on the border of Luxembourg with a rich history, as it is one of the oldest cities in Germany and was the largest city of the Roman Empire in the 4th Century (oh, and the birthplace of Karl Marx). There are several Roman ruins here, and Wade loves history and "old stuff." We find our hotel and walk through the Christmas Market. The wooden pyramid here highlights the wine growing of the region. We grab Flammkuchen (like a flatbread pizza) with potatoes, bacon, and cheese for dinner under the old cathedral and of course, our normal gluhwein before bed.
Our last real day of our trip, we get up early and eat at the hotel's breakfast which is a nice spread for 5 euros a person. First we visit Porta Nigra. Built as one of the four gates in the city wall built in 160-200 AD, it is the only one still standing due to a hermit who used to live in it. Small organisms blackened the white sandstone in the Middle Ages, hence its name. We were the only ones in it and it was really fun to run up it and have views of the town. Next, we head to the Roman Amphitheater. Not much remains of the seats and theater, but there is an underground area that allows you to see the old cages and trap doors from under the theater where gladiators and animals like the occasional lions and tigers were held. And finally, we walk around the Roman Imperial Baths, where you can also go underground to through the hot and cold bath areas in an underground maze of hallways. We took a quick walk back to the hotel through the Palace gardens, which are pretty, but I am sure more impressive when there is more foliage than in winter. We grab our backpacks and catch a train back to Koblenz and then an ICE train to Cologne.
I still love Cologne. I had booked the same hotel as last time I was here (Hotel Drei Kronen), as it is located right off the river (and very close to the Cathedral and train station), has a great view, and is located within walking distance of three Christmas Markets. We first head inside the cathedral for a quick look around. Still as impressive as before with its massive size, stained glass, and art. We then head off for some Christmas magic, as nothing embodies the Christmas spirit for me more the the Christmas Markets in Cologne. We grab some fondue while wandering the more traditional market Cathedral Market, that now has international food stalls. Then, we head to the larger and less traditional Old Town Market with its fun "house gnome" theme, large ice skating rink, and ice curling games. We listen to music and take a ride on the ferris wheel, enjoying views of the market from above and the cathedral. Later, we walk the riverfront and visit the Harbor Christmas Market. Perfect city to end another trip!
Great trip of familiar things for me and new things. Found new areas I would like to explore more and others I don't think I need to visit again. And now we are back home and I am glad to have stocked up on Christmas cheer since I am working Christmas Eve and Christmas night. I read about a German word often used during the holiday season that does not have a direct translation in English: Gemütlichkeit. It means something of a feeling and state of coziness and warmth, peace of mind, well-being, good cheer, and friendliness. So I wish you all gemütlichkeit for this holiday season and well in to 2019!
Trip photos are up online or you can view them as a slideshow.
Love,
Betsy
Traveling is part of me and helps me learn more about myself. As a way to remind myself to travel more and forget less, I set up this Travel Notes blog. While not detailed travel reports, these are email notes recapping my mostly solo adventures (typos and grammatical errors included-- most were typed on my phone). I send them to friends and family along the trip, but archive them here with photos to share, once I return home.
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