Email to Friends: Egyptian Desert Adventures‏

After a few fun days wandering Cairo and seeing the pyramids, I decided it was time to head off for the desert. A few last minute texts and I was confirmed to meet a small tour group heading for the Western Desert's Black and White Deserts. I packed a small bag full of enough stuff for the one night, sleeping bag, water, and my first aid kit. I headed out to meet the supposed group at 7am in downtown Cairo to head for the bus station. I was unsure of the guide and group, as a few things he said seemed inconsistent and the guide and number of people going kept getting switched on me. I had refused to pay up front, and was glad I did. The guide never showed up and there were no other people waiting at the meeting place. At 7:40, another man named Ali stopped and said he had a hotel and tour company and he had just dropped off two English girls at the bus station and that I would miss the bus (which left at 8). He quoted me a better price, I jumped in his car and he raced me over to the bus.

Met up with the two girls and jumped on the bus for Bahariyya, a small, friendly, dusty town near the Black Desert. They seemed nice enough. One had traveled quite a bit but the other seemed out of place for Egypt, as she wore a silk blouse and dress pants and shoes to walk around and sleep in the desert. They were probably a bit disappointed in me as well, as they were told they would be in a group with some German and Italian guys. The bus ride took about 5 hours. During the ride, the shady person I originally had booked my trip through kept texting me. I made the mistake if telling him I had already gotten on the bus and even though I said I no longer wanted a tour and had booked through someone else, he said he would send people to meet me at the bus. I warned the other girls that there might be a bit of trouble once we got there. Luckily, our guide Wagdi was there that Ali had set up. As we were loading stuff in the 4x4, some really sketchy looking dudes with a car approached me and asked if I was Betsy. I just shook my head and said, "nope... Elizabeth" knowing I had a passport to back it up. They looked confused and I hustled everyone into the 4x4 and got out of there.

Wagdi, our guide, seemed nice enough and took us to his home for lunch. after lunch, we discussed plans. I had planned on going to Siwa after the two day trip, but the only two ways were to backtrack through Cairo and then bus (what I had planned) or apply for a military permit and hire a 4x4 to cross the Great Sand Sea (what I wanted to do, but it was too expensive for a solo person). Unfortunately, what the English girls were promised by Ali, was not actually possible (they were trying to get directly to Luxor from Bahariyya) and when calling Ali, what was promised was different. The two girls were upset, but said they would think about what to do next. So we went and picked up a friend of Ali's named Mohammed, who had a wonderful smile and face that I instantly liked, and headed for the desert. First came the Black Desert. The sandy hills are regular sand colored, but are topped and sprinkled with black rocks. We went off road with the 4x4 for a bit and got to run around and take a few photos. After that, we went to a place called Crystal Mountain where all the rocks have crystals inside them and the ground is littered with sparkling crystals. It is fun looking at all the different sizes and shapes of the crystals.

Finally, we get to what I had been waiting to see... The White Desert. There are more tourists here than I have yet see in Egypt. It is pretty spectacular (which means, like, 5 people). Everything is white and almost look like the ground is covered with snow. There are strange outcroppings and mounds in shapes that some say look like the Sphinx or a chicken or a mushroom. It used to be part of the ocean floor eons ago when erosion created all these shapes. We play around there for a bit and then head to a secluded area where Mohammed and Wagdi set up camp. It is amazing to be all by ourselves in this desert playground. Wagdi and Mohammed started dinner and we run to find isolated perches to watch the sunset, as the pinks and purples bounced off the white desert.

Our camp was wonderful. Colorful blankets and mats, a table, and a bonfire to make tea and dinner. We had a potato soup, cucumber and tomato salad, rice, and chicken. Turns out Mohammed is a Bedouin musician and has toured the US and Europe. He plays us music. I convinced the two girls to head to Siwa with me instead of Luxor. We agreed on a price for Wagdi to drive us and have two more nights of desert camping, food, and tours and sandboarding in Siwa. Set out out mats as the night got cooler (I was thankful to have a hoody and sleeping bag and sleep sack) and saw bagazillions of stars. Fell asleep to several shooting stars as the moon rose and made the white formations almost seem to glow.

Got up early to head back to Baharriya to get to Siwa. I had done some research on the drive, and wanted to leave town as soon as possible to get to Siwa before dark. The sunrise was absolutely spectacular and I laughed when I saw little desert fox prints that wandered up to my head and then away, wondering what he had done while I was sleeping. The car wouldn't start, so someone drove out to help from a neighboring camp so we would get it fixed in town. We also borrow a satellite phone, which is apparently needed to apply for the military permit to drive across the Great Sand Sea. The permit turned out to be costlier than any of us had figured, but at least they got it done quickly (especially shocking as "Egyptian time" is slower than molasses). Wagdi and I had a small argument when he was taking his sweet time, chatting under the hood of the car instead of fixing it when I wanted to get going to reach Siwa before it got dark. But at least that gave us a bit of time to wander through Baharriya some more and we finally got off and made up later that day, with the help of always happy Mohammed.

The desert trip was beautiful. I love unspoiled sand dunes and the waves in the sand. The trip took longer than we thought with at least 20 military checkpoints were they examine your permits or search the car or just wave you through. There are some checkpoints where you can actually turn around and see the last checkpoint... and it is just a lone road in the middle of desert and we are the only car. Not sure what could have possibly occurred that they wouldn't have seen from the last checkpoint. Some of the checkpoints, we have to honk and wait as everyone is off napping or working out or whatever they are doing. But oh well, we finally arrive in Siwa right before sunset.

Siwa is a lovely, relaxed (although very conservative) desert oasis close to the Libyan border, known for olives and dates. People speak Arabic and also a Berber language. Cars, trucks, motorbikes, and donkey carts all mosey along the dusty streets. We were put up in a Bedouin tent for the night. The English girls were not happy as it was a little dirty and had lots of flies. I agreed it was not what was promised, but it was totally livable and I slept like a log except for the two puppies trying to root into out tent. There was also another discussion about the cost of the trip, which we thought was already sorted and agreed upon. So there was another discussion in the morning, which included one of the English girls bursting into tears. Luckily, once we got it sorted, we actually had a pretty great day.

We checked out the tombs and wall paintings at the Mountain of the Dead and the Temple of the Oracle (Temple of Amun) with views if the city and surrounding areas. Legend had it that at the Temple of the Oracle, Alexander the Great was told by the Oracle whether or not he was the son of Zeus. He then went out and conquered everything, but no one know what the Oracle told him. There are lots of hot and cold springs around Siwa and in the heat of the day, and I grabbed a lemon and fresh mint juice at Cleopatra's Bath. No swimming since women aren't allowed in some and if they are, they have to have their arms and legs covered. Since I only thought I was going to be on a one night trip which turned into five, I hadn't packed much of anything like a extra (or even a change of, for that matter) clothes or phone charger.

At this point, the high maintenance English girl decided she no longer wanted to sleep in the desert and wants to find a hotel. I really do not want to, but am not too keen on sleeping outside alone so I sadly have to follow along with this plan. We visit one that is in their guidebook. Well, not really sure if we found the right place, as every person we asked when looking for it gave us a really strange look or said they didn't know of it. Finally someone showed us what they said was the place, and the "owner" would only show us only one room which was dirty, cramped and right next to his. The other girls seemed amenable (not sure how since one was not able to use the restrooms at bus rest stop due to the filth), but I got a bad vibe from the place so said we needed to go outside to discuss it (I was ready to go off on my own if the other two had insisted we stay there). At this point, another man who had been sitting in the "lobby" came outside as well and warned our guide to not let us stay due to the "bad men". It was apparently some sort of brothel or something. And the two other girls then admitted the men in the lobby had touched them while we were in there (which was not attempted with me as maybe they knew they would lose their f-ing hand). We headed out of there and found another hotel from my guidebook which was nice (other than the non-flushing toilet and lack of running water most of the time).

After dropping our bags, we grabbed delicious falafel and foul (fava beans) sandwiches and pickled vegetables for a picnic under the date and olive trees. It was nice and cool and we all had a chance to relax and forget our moments of annoyance we had all had with each other throughout the morning. Ahhh, traveling in groups :) We head out for the sand dunes in the cooler part if the afternoon for sand boarding and a sunset dinner. Sand boarding was fun, although my favorite part was when Mohammed signaled for just me to come over and one of his friends let me sit up front in his 4x4 and went flying up, over, and down a super steep sand dune, as a "special treat" (I think for being more laid back and less of a pain in the butt than my travel companions). Sunset was gorgeous from the top of a sand dune ridge, and Wagdi cooked up yet another delicious Bedouin dinner.

Afterwards, we headed to a party of mainly Bedouin friends of Mohammed's. There was tons of food, layer out on a huge communal table like Thanksgiving for 20-30 people. Green soup, tahini, bread, salad, lamb, chicken, beef, and little stuffed cabbage rolls. Mohammed made me eat until I was absolutely stuffed. Then came singing, drumming and dancing. Mohammed played some type of flute and I got to taste a little of the local Siwa date wine. Super fun, but I got tired around midnight.

The next day was spent wandering through town. Met an Egyptologist who gives tours for some expensive company called Abercrombie and Kent that we had met the previous day and he invited us for tea. He also used to work for the Department of Tourism so now I have his email if I run into any trouble. Also was told of an English woman living in Siwa and ran into her and had a nice chat (it is a very small town and you will run into just about everyone throughout the day... At least the men, since it is very conservative and women rarely leave the house). Later, we were invited by some guys for a motorbike ride to watch the sunset over the water. We head off on the back of the motorbikes to an isolated area of beach amongst grass and old palms. They treated us to snacks and we made a fire for tea. Super nice way to end our trip. Headed to the night bus where Wagdi and Mohammed came to say our goodbyes. Sad to leave, but I have been living for a while now on my supplies I had for my "one-night desert trip" so I should probably go shower and change clothes and it is probably safer to take the night bus with others.

Now back in Cairo with Elisabeth. Not sure what the next few days brings. Just in case you catch wind of it over there, there was a travel warning and rumors of big Muslim Brotherhood protests of a recent trial where over 500 were given the death penalty today at Tahir Square and Elisabeth's neighborhood, but so far it has been pretty quiet. If it stays this way, we are off to see a movie (with English subtitles, hopefully?). But they also warned of upcoming uncertainty of the Presidential candidate announcements in the upcoming days. Friday is usually the demonstration day, so at this point I am unsure if I will venture solo to Alexandria by bus or train or fly to Sharm el Shiek (yes, I heard of the recent incident at the Hilton) or stay in Cairo until we fly to Luxor early Monday. Elisabeth suggested waiting to see what happens in the next day or so and we will ask around. Still working on making her come to Alex with me and do her work there. Either way, I am loving Egypt, it still feels super safe, and for every one not so good person I meet, there are at least twenty wonderful people. Now that I am out if the desert and have internet again, I can watch the news to stay on top of things, but I am sure everything will be fine.

Thanks for the emails from back home. I may not always respond, but appreciate hearing news and updates and such. Hope all is well.

Love,
Betsy