No hostels were open for me when we got in to Lusaka, so thankfully, Richard stayed with me at the bus stop. Around 7:00 AM, we headed to his friend's cement factory. Hung out there for a bit and then they drove us to the Soweta Market to this awesome butcher that had the best biltong ever. You get to pick yours and then they shave it fresh. It was down a back alley, so I never would have found it myself. Then we went to the dump to look for a part for one of the cement factory tractors. Sorted through this huge John Deere graveyard pile of parts and found what we were looking for. Richard invited me along so I could see the South Luangwa park, which I wanted to do. Unfortunately, I had to get a visa for Tanzania in Lusaka and missed the flight by an hour or so. Lusaka is pretty boring and the hostel I stayed at had was having a water issue (and after a night bus, a cement factory, and playing at the dump, I REALLY needed a shower). So I decided to not spend much time there and went to buy a bus ticket for the 6:30 AM bus.
I got in to Lilongwe, Malawi late last night. I should have arrived in the afternoon, but the day was full of a seedy bus company trying to shove two full bus loads of people on to one bus. Everyone complained and made them bring another bus. Then they tried to charge me 20,000 extra to take my backpack with me. Nobody else was charged, even the woman with 8 comforter sets that she brought with her as luggage. I had to argue with them for half an hour, and they finally relented when I said I was going to head to the ticket office and ask for a refund to book with someone else. Apparently, they were just going to pocket the money. Bus left two and and a half hours late so we got to Chipata late. All money exchange places were closed, so had to try before crossing the border. Ended up getting scammed and had my money stolen instead. Walked across to the Malawi border. Then got scammed for the last of my money by a cab driver to get to the minibus area in Mchinji. Others on the minibus saw it and were angry. I told them not to worry about it, but one of them flagged down a police officer who wanted me to get out of the bus and tell him what happened. Since he had no uniform or anything, I refused to go with him (and leave my luggage on the bus). Finally, after yet another difficult travel day, I am hanging out in Lilongwe.
Not much to do here in Lilongwe, but I was not ready to bus around again this morning, so I am going to relax here for the day and then take the bus to Mzuzu early tomorrow to try to catch a minibus to Nkata Bay where I will relax for a week or so before moving on.
I think I need a break from all this moving around. I need to unpack my bag and do laundry the proper way (instead of in the shower or sink). I dread my travel days and I think I need to take a break as all the scams and hassles that seem to occur mainly on the travel days.
My new cell phone for Malawi is +265 05 417 288....I think. I will have it until I head into Arusha, whenever that may be. Apparently you all had daylight savings time (sorry for the early call, Mom!!!) so now I am 10 hours ahead of you.
Hope all is well with you. I love receiving your emails, but the internet is expensive and slow so I don't have time to respond to most. Sorry! And uploading pictures is sure to take forever and cost a fortune, so you will have to wait for me to get home. Also, still haven't sent out postcards yet. I haven't seen many places to buy them yet. But I will keep looking!
Love,
Betsy
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