My iPod Touch went on the fritz right as my trip ended. But I think I left off once I hit Jerusalem. Wednesday, I walked toward the Old City and headed to Zion's Gate. Saw where the Last Supper took place and King David's tomb and then hung out for a bit chatting with a man selling snacks who gave me free ice cream. 
I headed down to see the cemetery where Oskar Schindler was buried and was the only one there. Schindler's headstone was surprisingly plain, but covered in rocks as is tradition to show respect for the person buried there. I sat with my thoughts and added a special rock I had been carrying to take home to the pile. Then I headed down the winding alleyways of the Old City through the Jewish, Armenian, and Muslim Quarters. It was interesting to see the similarities, but also the distinct differences within such a relatively small area. I basically got lost within the walls until I finally popped out by the Damascus Gate.
Once I got my bearings, I headed to Lions Gate to walk around near the base of the Mount of Olives to see Al-Aqsa Mosque, and then into Dung Gate to see the Western Wall and Dome of the Rock. The Dome of the Rock had been shut down due to protests, but I did visit the Wailing Wall. It is split into a men's and women's side. I felt kind of strange, as I knew it was very powerful for everyone around me, but I didn't fully understand the religious significance. 
I did enjoy the prayers written on pieces of paper and shoved into every crack or crevice on the Wall that was within reach. It was kind of nice to think of the Wall holding so many people's hopes, dreams, and wishes. I may have made some of my own wishes, but only in my head.
That evening I felt pretty terrible. I had begun to get a severe headache and feel light headed and dizzy late in the afternoon, but couldn't find many spots out of the extremely hot sun to sit down and rest. I felt like I had to just kept pushing myself to walk further, as there was so much to see. But by the time I got back to the apartment, I was considering heading to a hospital, as I was afraid I was going to pass out again like I did right before I left on the trip. I really wanted to socialize with my hosts, but found myself slipping in and out of sleep.
Luckily, I felt better the next day after lots of fluid and rest. I decided to take it relatively easy that day. Alon and I headed to Mahane Yehuda Market for some lunch and groceries. He went back and I stayed to wander and pick up stuff to make something for a group dinner, as Alon had already gotten salmon to cook. The market got crazy in the afternoon as Shabbat started and vendors would all shutter up up until Sunday. Bought groceries to make a pasta salad for dinner as a small gesture of appreciation to my hosts (they were okay with cooking on Shabbat). On my way home, I wandered the Nahalat Shiv'a neighborhood and sat in the park. There are lots of families gathered at the park, and I realize how used to seeing people openly carrying guns I have become. You see them on buses, on people in swimsuits at the beach, and with families at the park. A man that lived nearby saw me resting and enjoying the park and came out of his house to give me flowers. He didn't say anything... just smiled, nodded his head and scurried away. Very sweet!
I walked back to the apartment and started cooking. I realized I forgot to buy cream, and at that point, everything in the Jewish areas was closed for Shabbat. Luckily, I was able to just walk a bit further to the Old City to the Christian Quarter to buy cream (well, since everything was labeled in Hebrew, I picked up something that appeared to be cooking cream, and luckily it was). As per usual with my keen sense of direction, I got lost in the alleyways of the Old City, stopping to sit and chat with merchants and people along the way. It is interesting to hear different people's take on some of the religious and political issues of Israel, as it is really varied. I tried very hard to just keep an open mind, not offer an opinion, and be appreciative of everyone's viewpoints. Finally I headed back to the apartment at sundown, weaving between the many Jewish families all dressed up and heading to Shabbat celebrations. Alon, Steve and I proceeded to make dinner. It was quite a feast! I made creamy lemon garlic pasta with tomatoes, Alon made a delicious mustard salmon (really good for his first attempt at making salmon), and Steve made rice and a chocolate tahini dessert. My hosts head off to a party, but I had a big day ahead of me, so I went to get some sleep.
I woke up early the next morning to make the trek up the Mount of Olives. Everyone told me to take a taxi, but it looked walkable. The walk to the top is up a steep hill cemetery that is supposedly over 3,000 years old and is full of tombstones (some say over 150,000). It actually was a long way to the top, not helped by the fact that I was weaving in and out, looking at all the different graves. Finally at the top, I was approached by several people saying they would "walk me around." I had heard it was kind of a seedy area and there was a strange vibe, so I declined and lost them. I found a bunch of kids with a very kind woman who was teaching them photography. 
She told me to just blend in with the group, and got me into one of the small church grounds that was closed to the public. I walked around with them as the kids watched what I tried to take pictures of and mimicked me. Then we all shared our pictures. Super cute! We all said goodbye after a while as they headed back to school
I wandered into something called the Mosque of the Ascension. There were some guys outside who explained the significance and waived the admission fee and gave me a tour. There is an indented rock in the middle of the floor, which they explain is considered the last footprint of Jesus before he ascended to heaven. I actually had no idea that Jesus was both part of the Muslim and Christian. I headed over and had a coffee at Seven Arches, enjoying the lookout view over Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock. A guide that drove a tour bus offered me a ride back down the hill, but I decided I still had enough energy and could explore more by walking down. 
On the way, I stopped by the Dominus Flevit church that had beautiful and quiet gardens and view of the Dome of the Rock from the altar. A family sang hymns in the church and did not seemed bothered while I sat and enjoyed it. I also checked out the Garden of Gethsemane with worlds oldest olive trees (over 2000 years old). 
At the base of the hill, the Church of All Nations had some of my favorite architecture inside with lots of Corinthian columns and blue ceilings with tree trunks and stars. I wandered back through the Old Quarter and was invited in to the home of an odd Jewish guy. We sat and chatted over coffee and then I went to find some street food and picked up a yummy pizza of sorts that had za'atar spread on flatbread. Exhausted, I headed back to my hosts' apartment, chatted with them for a bit, and crashed out.
Ah, the last leg of my trip. I fell behind in my updates and am just getting caught up. My first day in Israel consisted of hanging out with the family I am staying with as the mom made homemade matzo ball soup to take to her brother's house. Danielle and her boyfriend drop me off in Tel Aviv. It is an amazingly nice city. It is still a holiday (Passover/Easter) so a lot of stuff in the city is closed and it is pretty quiet. But that makes it far easier to navigate and get my bearings. It is a very clean, walkable city with gardens and parks, childrens play areas, dog parks, and public beaches. 
People of the neighborhoods walk through little streets lined with colorful, nice-smelling flowers as they walk their dogs or stop at one of the many outside cafes. I wander to the promenade next to the beach along the Mediterranean sea and walk the length of Tel Aviv into Jaffa, since it is Arabic area (stores are open as it is not their holiday). I enjoy the views and flowers, watching the families BBQ along the beach and kids flying kites on the grassy hills. 
I wander around and find a parade and stop to watch. I then head down to the busy port area and grab some of the delicious hummus I have heard so much about. It is creamy and super good. Head back into town and wander around more, finally stopping to enjoy the sunset over the beach as it casts pretty light on the newer, modern downtown towers.
I walk the beach, checking out a funky beach house. The sand is soft, and it could be paradise except for the occasional military planes buzzing by. I head back to the house as Danielle offers me a ride to the city as she has to work. She feeds me at the restaurant she works at and it is delicious! Not sure of the spelling as things are spelled all different ways here when done phonetically from Hebrew (street signs sometimes have different spellings for the same place so you have to read it aloud in your head), but it is a place called Miznon on King George Street and Ibn Gvirol 21. It is pita sandwiches using all super fresh ingredients (some grow on the roof) such herbs, veggies and meat. There is a snack tray with tahini and fresh tomato sauce made from scratch that tastes like sunshine. She also give me an ice cream treat in a pita with some sweet tree sap/syrup and roasted bananas. Apparently the chef has several restaurants, some really fancy and upscale and they will be opening one in French and maybe New York. All full, I go off to wander the streets and marketplace. Some man sees me from his apartment balcony on the beach and has the phone number of the parking attendant of the lot I am passing. The parking attendant motions me over and hands me the phone, saying "it's for you." Strange, but he really wants to buy me a drink (I choose coffee as I am unsure if he is creepy or not). He turned out okay, but just wants to buy me stuff and I am not interested. So I wander off some more and head to a lively place with beer, the soccer match, and live music upstairs. People seem to stay up til all hours here and people are still walking, jogging, and roller blading at 11pm. I meet Danielle after her shift and she gives me a ride back to the house.
Today, Danielle and her sister have off in the morning. So we all head to Cesaria, some ruins along the beach. Enjoy the views and flowers and then they take me to a local beach spot for shakshouka, the traditional Israeli breakfast of eggs and tomatoes with some hummus and pita. We talk about their military service and religion and just enjoy each others company. I plan to head to Jerusalem in the afternoon and while on the beach, Danielle puts out a Facebook message and gets a place for me to stay with a friend. They help give me directions for the bus and write out everything for me to show people if I get lost. I made it to Jerusalem (with a bit of help from more strangers) and the friend, Alon, left me his key in the mailbox as he is away tonight. It is a quiet neighborhood but centrally located near really nice hotels, an Art House, and a few blocks from Ben Yehuda Street with restaurants and bars. I enter an empty house (there are 2 other roommates, but no one is home), drop my stuff and head for a walk to the Old City. 
Pass the US Consulate (it is rather nice to see our flag after all this traveling) and catch the last of the sunset in the Old City. Lots of tourists and people with America accents that have moved here. Head back to Ben Yehuda Street for dinner and then back to the house where I meet Alon's roommate, who seems nice. He is a physics student at the university here and is from a kibbutz up north. Now, off to bed as I am sure there will be lots of walking through Jerusalem tomorrow!
The second next day I went on two dives. We did Shipwreck and the Japanese Gardens. The sites were very busy, as it is a holiday weekend, so I think much of the marine life was scared away. But they were good shallow dives (I realized I haven't done shore dives since I was certified 24 years ago) and the coral looked to be in pretty good shape and I just played around with my GoPro. No nudibranch or seahorse sightings, which made me kind of sad. 
But in looking at some of my GoPro pictures, I realized that a) I am terrible at diving AND taking pictures at the same time b) I need filters for color correction on deep shots such as wreck dives and c) I'm pretty sure I got photobombed by fish several times... Ha!
The next morning, I wake up to buy a 2 day pass and be one of the first people through the gate at 6am. It is very quiet as I walk through the Siq (a narrow canyon cut between the tall rocks). You turn a narrow corner and can see the great Treasury. Absolutely amazing. I sit and have a coffee while watching the Bedouins bring in their camels and donkeys and set up shop as the sun rises and changes the colors of the red rocks and Treasury. 
Head through the valleys and hike up to a high viewpoint overlooking the Treasury to watch the throngs of tourists enter by the bus load. Already a few hours ahead of them, I get to explore on my own. Goats, camels (3 baby ones!), and mules graze along the way as I hike to see the Theater and some tombs and marvel at the various structures and caves cut into the rocks.Late in the afternoon, I meet a Bedouin and his horse, Suzanna, and he invites me to join him for tea and we gather a few sticks 
to make a small fire to boil water. It is starting to get very crowded and he shows me a little used path away from all the tourists that runs from the Royal Tombs to Wadi Muthlim. It involves climbing over and under boulders in a sometimes very narrow valley to get back to the park entrance. After 8 hours of hiking and exploring, I head back to the hotel and grab some mansef for a late lunch/early dinner.
Day 2, I am in the park at 6am again. I wander around, explore an old river bed, and head up the over 800 steps to the Monastery, which rivals the Treasury and is even bigger. hang out there for a bit and head back to the hotel to check out as they are all booked tonight. It is a different place when it is full of tourists and the shops are set up for business. I grab a quick lunch and head back in. I head to the High Place of Sacrifice to watch the sunset, perched on the edge of a tall cliff. 
It is beautiful and I watch the sun set at the same time the full moon rises up over the town of Wadi Musa. I chat with some Bedouins and we hang out and drink tea in the old Theatre. I was going to walk out and get a 12 JD ticket to Petra by Night where the Siq is lit up at night with luminarias, and everyone walks to the Treasury for Bedouin music and tea, but ran out of time and am still in the park. 
The Bedouins sneak me in, saving me some money and the walk to the entrance and back. It was really beautiful under the full moon. Walk back to the hotel to supposedly meet someone that was to take me to my couchsurfing host. Wait until midnight and no one comes, so thankfully the night manager lets me sleep in a spare, unused room since all the hotels are full the next few nights.
There is a group of Austrians he is doing a 10 day hike with, and I can go for free as a volunteer if I help out doing dishes and such. I meet the group and then head off by myself to climb up some rocks to watch the sun set behind the mountains.
That night, I get to sleep in a cave inside of Petra with delicious food and wonderful company. Turns out I really like sleeping in caves! It is warm and super safe as all of the people are sweet and kind (and we even have our own police escort). I learn a little about the Bedouin culture. All that I have met are kind, respectful, and a very tight knit community. Many of the boys have dreadlocks and wear eyeliner and look like Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean.
I see many of the same sites, but coming from a different direction and a different time of day is still interesting, as the rocks look different from different angles and light. I am glad I spent two days on my own exploring Petra, as they really didn't get to see many places and there is little time to stop and enjoy things as they are so focused on hiking. We make a longer hike out past the Treasury with spectacular rocky canyons that I haven't yet seen. That night, Rosalie (another couch surfer from Switzerland) and I sleep back at Gassab's family's home in the Bedouin Village.